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i think i caused the CD to fire, the spark jumped to the closest plug inside the cap and it fired. but enough on that.

I DONT KNOW WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON NOW!!

i pulled 2 new wires to the coil. it is as bad, maybe a tad worse than before. the wire i used is rated for 600v.
whats strange is i was trying to reproduce the "auto start" so i removed the ground to the CD unit and it kept running.
i unplugged the tach to reproduce yesterday as best i could and no difference.

yesterday when the car ran good, removing the ground to the CD made sparks. not big, kind of like connecting a battery charger to a battery. today, no sparks.

there are 2 browns on 31/1. where does the other one go?

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Old 04-19-2013, 01:32 PM
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i think i must have fired the CD unit and the spark jumped to the nearest plug in the cap.. but enough on that.

its not fixed after pulling new coil wires.

i cant reproduce yesterdays "auto start" and in fact, when i remove the ground frm the CD it keeps running.


what if when i did my test yesterday i did not have a good ground for the green wire back too the dist? that would mean the ground was going through the case., then the ground jumper i had connected, thats why it would fire when i removed and connected the ground wire.
out to do more testing
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Old 04-19-2013, 02:04 PM
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i dont know what to do at the moment.

i checked the grounds to/from the CD. i thought the ground to the body might be questionable but with it running and grounding the meg side of the coil at various places made no difference.

i even checked the vacuum line to the brake booster and all that was good. hopeing for a big air leak.

why did it run god that one time? it has something to do with grounding through the CD unit itself.
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:40 PM
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i am REALLY lost right now.

i can not reproduce the car running good under the first test to bypass the coil wiring. although it did seem to run better for a short while saturday with the CD unit connected as is should be. holy cow that thing really goes when it is running better. boost was coming in a lot sooner. before it was around 4200, for a while it was around 3k. I WANT MY POWER BACK!
this morning it had that random "bucking" while driving steady. its not back but it is there.

i have tried running extra grounds from the CD to engine, coil to engine and engine to body. even CD to dizzy. no change.

the set of plug wires i put on was a used set of BERU wires but they all tested around 4k ohms. the magncores that were there were 4k to 8k ohms. the coil wire is still magnecore.


i should get the spare CD unit, LM2 and fuel gauge from my brother next week. i need to stop and go back to work onthe mercedes. parts are coming in and i need to get it fixed. its body work time, yea.
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:33 AM
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here are some pics of pulling wires thru the wire harness. it was not that hard. i soldered the new wire to the old wire, then filed the solder joint down to make it smooth and smaller so it would not damage excisting wires. then with a little lube in the harness, i pulled it thru. i "messaged" the wires harness a little and made sure it was straight as possible and it pulled right through.
both wires looked really good except the one cut on the white wire that was outside the harness.

next came what to do on the CD end for connectors. the anal part of me "had" to try to re-crimp the new wire into the old connector. maybe not a good idea. i ended up soldering the new wire on to the old crimp.
with the ground wire, i spliced it and put heat shink on it and back into the harness it went.

for the coil ends, i crimped and then soldered the wires.
the best way to do this is to crimp it first, no tinning the wire. then with a little flux on the solder, just solder it enough to get the end of the wire.

there is also a pic of my test setup.
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:51 AM
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:53 AM
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i pulled the wire out of the connector to the CD for the tach/speed relay. at first it ran much much better. then i cold notice the miss in the 3k rpm range as i kept driving. then it got to where it was doing it in the 2k range. with the wire removed, for about 20seconds, the tach bounced up and down from 0 to about 2500. i had noticed it move about 200 rpm's once or twice before, so i checked the output of the alt, 14volts. i think i will put my MM on the battery and set it for record and drive around and see what it picks up.

this seems to be heat related too. when cold, it does not do it but it does not take long for it to start under normal conditions. (part of the reason i thought fuel/mixture related).
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:05 AM
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Quote:
as i am connecting the ground there are some small sparks, THEN... THE FREAKING ENGINE STARTS UP!!!! no starter, it just starts running. scared the piss out of me! and actaully freaked me out. (for seveeral years now my head feels like i am in "fog" or hung over. sometimes i have to stop and really think about what i see or what i am doing and think is this really what i am seeing).
so i get in and start driving again. well, it does it again. i left the key on, wiggle the ground wire, FROOM! its runnig again. since i am not out on a busy street, i try it again. remove the wire, engine dies, connect it, its running. first i had to think, did i hear the starter, but no!
i guess this is why porsche kills the fuel pumps then the CD unit.
This is one crazy story T77, the engine started without the starter turning the engine first?

Quote:
this seems to be heat related too. when cold, it does not do it but it does not take long for it to start under normal conditions. (part of the reason i thought fuel/mixture related).
Is your fuel pump fuse red hot after your drive?
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:12 AM
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when was your green wire on the distributor last replaced? start the car and wiggle push pull on the green wire coming out of the distributor. My old 79 used to do similarly weird things, turned out it was the green wire of death.
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:32 AM
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i tried wiggling the green wire. its hard/impossible to get to the back, but no change. i ohmed the green wire to shield but dont recall off the rop of my head what it was. ithink it was sveral hundred ohms.

anyone ever put an oscope on the signal out of the dizzy?
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Old 04-23-2013, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T77911S View Post
i pulled the wire out of the connector to the CD for the tach/speed relay. at first it ran much much better. then i cold notice the miss in the 3k rpm range as i kept driving. then it got to where it was doing it in the 2k range. with the wire removed, for about 20seconds, the tach bounced up and down from 0 to about 2500. i had noticed it move about 200 rpm's once or twice before, so i checked the output of the alt, 14volts. i think i will put my MM on the battery and set it for record and drive around and see what it picks up.

this seems to be heat related too. when cold, it does not do it but it does not take long for it to start under normal conditions. (part of the reason i thought fuel/mixture related).
I'm losing track of your issue....too many things being done/disconnected, etc. Me thinks you're chasing your tail by now. I sure would be!

Anyway, what tach/speed relay wire is that you pulled (I don't run with a stock CDI, so not too clear). The over-speed relay is under the seat...is that the relay you speak of? Apparently, though, it has nothing to do with your tach, since your tach is still operating. But what got my attention was the tach bouncing from 0 to 2500 once the car got warm. That's usually a symptom of the alternator going on you. With that said, perhaps....just perhaps....you are seeing inadequate voltage to the CDI as a result, getting inconsistent spark as a result. Your plan to hook up a temporary DVM and watch it from cold to hot while driving, may point to a voltage change that coincides with your engine miss.

I once installed a temporary DVM to help troubleshoot a mysterious rotten egg smell and drastic drop in my AFR's just cruising in town under certain conditions. The volt meter would show way high charging when the symptoms showed up (boiling the battery). An easy obvious fix for me. Information is power....
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:14 AM
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Have you opened your cdi box? I had some rough running problems when warm, real lean and heavy missing. It turns out the wire for the system ground inside the cdi box melted. It would explain it if you ground the cdi box and get better results.

Picture of melted part below:

Got the ride of shame last night, crazy fueling problem
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:24 PM
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wow. that thing popped like a fuse! you shorted power to that wire or the coil shorted to make that blow like that. most likely the coil. but no, no problems like that. i opened it and checked for loose/broken parts. also OHMed some stuff out in there.

mark,
the tach wire i pulled was the TD wire AT the CD unit itself. the connector has 2 black wires on it. one to the tach and one to the speed relay under the seat, so i presume. the ONLY purpose of my speed relay is as a rev limiter in my car.
when i pulled the wire at the CD, the tach WAS still connected at the round connector just down from the CD connector, so the tach was still connected to the speed relay, but not the CD.
the tach only jumped a few times and has not done it since, but....i have seen it move about 200 RPM when it should not have, but only like twice. so i did check the voltage and it was fine, but i do want to put my meter on record and drive around for a while. record can detect changes in voltage that are too fast to register on the meter.
when i first pulled the TD (tach/speed realy) wire, it ran better for a while. like it did the first time i bypassed the 2 wires to the coil. but who is to say that moving the CD around did not effect a bad connection like what may have happened the first time. but, it did start to run bad again, it jsut took a while.


i might be chasing my tail in that as it warms in time with the WUR it runs bad, and AFR's very lean, i am leaning towards fuel as in the WUR, or messing with the CD and wiring it runs better for a while it may be electrical.

going to get the LM, fuel gages and spare CD on friday, so other than checking my alt voltage, i am at a lose as far as WHAT to do.
oh, and now i have the tach disconnected at the round connector but have the speed relay connected back up at the CD unit. i have not seen the tach move since the one time it did the big jumps.
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:02 AM
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checked the voltage today. hi was 14.3 over a 20 minute drive.

voltage from CD to coil is around 415v. hard to measure without a 100:1 probe and the digital Oscope does not help. i really hate digital Oscopes for most testing. but it was free.

signal from dizzy looks clean and around 17v p-p.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:25 AM
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got some possible air leaks to check out.

i have a K27 and where the outlet of the turbo to the IC is does not feel that good. that pipe has some kind of "muffler" clamp on it. i have tried to remove it to see how it seals , but i can not get it off. even with the clamps tight, the pipe feels a bit lose.

i found that the big O ring onthe TB and a big chunk taken out of it. not sure how ling it has been that way.
i have already checked the vacuum line to the booster and the booster and i have check the intake manifold bolts. any other places to check?
an air leak could make sense. idle has a slight miss but being rich can make up for it. cruise is lean and it would be the worst, which it is. boost, well, boost is pumping so much air in, a leak might not be noticeable.
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:02 PM
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i put our spare CD unit in. the engine was good and hot when i put it in. it ran good for a while but at first i could hear it miss in the upper RPM's at cruise. then it eventually started doing it in the 2500 range again.

put the pressure gauge on today. engine off pressure got up to 3.2bar. i wanted to drive it and get the engine really hot and see if it went up some more but i pulled the tube off the turbo that goes to the IC. there was some kind of muffler clamp that held it on and it has a hole in it. i could see the turbo thru the hole. here is a pic.

now, where can i get another one?? the car is down until i get one..

i checked the plugs on the right side. the porcelain is very white, all 3 look the same. i will pull the left side here shortly.

should i do a leak down test with very hot? i did the compression test after 300 mile trip and it was good.
did not get the LM, a friend is still using it.

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Old 04-27-2013, 10:05 AM
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What is that - once more...?
Old 04-27-2013, 06:42 PM
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yeeesh.. i don't wanna know what that is.
Old 04-27-2013, 07:08 PM
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here is a pic of the up pipe and the outlet of the turbo.

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Old 04-29-2013, 05:33 AM
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i hope this is the cause of my lean mixture and my miss. the break is right at the top of the turbo output.

that thing does look kinda nasty in the pic. dont want to say what it looks like

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Old 04-29-2013, 05:35 AM
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