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...don't get me wrong either - i think you guys are all at least one generation evolved beyond your otherwise caveman musings...unlike my stock boost gauge and desire to see it work having forked - or boned - down 170 bucks for the sender...i don't even care if its accurate, i want to see a rendition, if you will, of what's going on within a reagan era turbo...
...and i like my clock since i don't wear one - and don't own a cell phone...who's caveman now???
...will try grounding sender tonight...if that fails, iu suppose something is amiss somewhere between...maybe delving in there will expose why the right indicator light comes on when i step on the brakes...

Old 04-25-2013, 08:21 PM
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:21 PM
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...okay gentlemen, adding a ground to the sender does nothing for the pegged boost needle...i have however found something new...along with the branch off the harness containing the brown/white and white wires i have assumed were THE wires, i have come across another similar finger from harness with the brown/white and white wire, as well as another branch sheathing 2 browns and two reds...each brown/red pair end in a plastic snap-like connector - with no potential mates in the engine bay...can i give a try with the other brown,white and white pair, or do i run the risk of frying something...i assume since when i ground the brown/white wire that ive been plugging to the sender, the needle zeroing out means its the proper one, but how much can one assume when in such foreign territory???any help, suggestions, diagrams, etc are more welcome than ever...thanks...
Old 04-27-2013, 09:14 AM
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Wire check

Remove the wire from the sender. Trace it back to the gauge and make sure it's the right wire.
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:40 PM
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I was going to suggest the same. I actually ran a temporary wire from sensor to gauge (taped to outside of car) and gauge worked fine. Problem turned out to be broken wire in spade connector at sensor.
You could also check continuity of the brown-white wire from sensor to gauge.
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:49 PM
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you do need to have the intercooler grounded. you can do that with a wire strap or a a wire. if you have rubber v=bushings around the contact points as my OEM does then it wont be grounded. i am betting as others have said that this is your issue
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wholio94112 View Post
...i assume since when i ground the brown/white wire that ive been plugging to the sender, the needle zeroing out means its the proper one, but how much can one assume when in such foreign territory??
I would assume the same...tells you you've got the correct wire, tells you that you've got continuity all the way to the gauge, and tells you the gauge is functioning. Since you're confident that your sender is now well grounded - yet still the gauge refuses to go to zero when connected, do we (I know you don't want to hear this) perhaps....perhaps...have a bad sender? I know it's new, but? Is the new sender the correct application (I noticed is doesn't have the orange rubber cover)? Was your old sender working at all before replacing it?
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Old 04-28-2013, 05:00 AM
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thanks mark, j930, billjam, doherty and the like...all i havent done is trace the wire from unit to gauge...i don't want to slice up the harness for that, and i do believe other tests ive run have shown i have the right wire, and if there is a weakness in the wire, i should still be getting at least periodically positive results, however much they may fluctuate...Todd (OS930) offered to send me one he has, functioning as it should...that'd be great if the sender is bogus - better than something pelican DIDNT send me on my car being funked...ive just gone through 2 straight shipments of fuel pump relays that turned my turbo into a timid little turd - and i just dont want to believe that even porsche is coming to this time where we are going to have to settle for sweatshop mediocrity on the parts that we put on the things that make us feel a bit less mediocre!!!
...the sender is not the orange capped unit, but it is a version of the correct unit that pelican sells...the unit that was on when i purchased the car was missing the cap, and was not hooked up(it is in the very first, blurriest of pics posted on page one...i guess my fingers are crossed that the unit needs to be returned...
Old 04-28-2013, 07:25 PM
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...well a generous pelican offered he send a unit he knows to be functioning - and i received it yesterday...ive beefed up the ground to the IC, ground the sender unit as well - but gauge still pegs...it only zeroes when i ground the sender wire - but then the battery warning light goes on - like theres an alt. problem or a broken belt, etc...browsing through schematic diagrams that go beyong my scope of understanding, i see that somehow that lil' blue wire of the alternator and the boost pressure sender are connected - so that somehow doesnt entirely surprise me...pelican did send me a sender unit quite different from the unit ive been comparing it to...one has a reddish rubber cap atop, and seeming two connection points labelled G and WK...my unit appears, on the surface like the oil pressure sender, with 1 unlabelled connection point...so im confused, but plugging and connecting away at different ways 2 or 3 wires can be oriented...in case anyone is in the same boat...no land yet in sight...OLGA runs perfect though....
Old 05-02-2013, 07:57 PM
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Stumped. Somewhere in the back of my mind I'm recalling discussions about a diode behind the dash (your red alt light turning on triggered that thought) but maybe only related to speedo or tach or charging issues - danged if I can remember. Seems that's a new clue that might point to something if only I could remember.
Anybody...?

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Old 05-03-2013, 04:45 AM
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