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Turbofrog
 
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Europe
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My new alternator has bigger axle so the concave spacer wont fit?

Edit. Skip to the second post!

EDIT: It's an AL400X, it reads on the side. It seems the diode packs are soldered on the wiring on the plus side.
EDIT2: I just bought a new Valeo Paris Rhone from Germany and will see how much it takes to rebuild this al400x for spare.



Its on my 79 930 so it has been converted to internal voltage regulator model. I have very low voltage like 1.6V at the blue wire at the tachometer and red/black has about one volt lower than battery voltage? IIRC the alternator worked just fine before the wiring melt down 2010. I need to check the starter posts but I have full voltage at the red wire on the alternator.

The red light is on all the time when ignition is on. What gives up on the alternator, the diodes?

Blue wire was on D+
earth on D- and on the block bolt
red ones on B+

The voltage regulator looks like this one except the positive connector is different on mine.


These are the troubleshooting steps I will test next trying to figure out the problem:
Quote:
To trouble-shoot the problem, you need to check the various sections independently. Thus the first check: Connect +12 volts from the battery to the DF terminal on the relay board. This is the maximum field current situation, and should result in maximum output of the alternator. Note that this checks the B+ diodes, the alternator windings, and the common diodes. It does NOT check the D+ diodes.

To check the D+ portion of the system, it is necessary to find out if the D+ output can produce enough current to drive the alternator to full output. To do this, short the D+ and DF terminals on the relay board. This will provide the maximum field current to the alternator that the alternator ITSELF can supply (not the battery, as in the earlier check) and so checks the remainder of the circuitry. If this test puts the light out, then the alternator is good, and the trouble is elsewhere. If it doesn't, then the alternator is almost certainly bad, with one other possibility:

In the Bosch system, the size of the charge warning lamp bulb is critical. Too low a wattage bulb will not supply enough field current for "bootstrap" operation to be reliable. The Bosch book that I have states that the lamps must be at least 2 watts for 12 volt systems. If you have replaced your charge warning lamp recently, then too small a lamp may be your culprit.

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79 930: HX40S#16, MS3pro+ID1000+044+E85, Ignition: 123/TUNE/MSD6A, True split BB, 2*turbosmart38

Last edited by smurfbus; 05-24-2013 at 11:12 AM..
Old 05-06-2013, 09:23 PM
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Turbofrog
 
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Aargh, this new alternator has bigger axle so the concave spacer wont fit over it. Are there different sizes for this spacer or do I just mod it bigger?

Also the power/ground posts seem to be totally different and so does the regulator? It was listed for 930 so what goes? Did my car have a cheap spare with non stock connection or is this new one totally wrong?
This one:
101822, Valeo Paris Rhone, Lichtmaschine Valeo Paris Rhone Porsche
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79 930: HX40S#16, MS3pro+ID1000+044+E85, Ignition: 123/TUNE/MSD6A, True split BB, 2*turbosmart38
Old 05-24-2013, 11:08 AM
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Jbp Jbp is offline
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Axel is 17mm on one of mine.
tread is different to an other one.(same axel.17mm)
and nead a different spacer and lugnutt.

Jocke.
Old 05-24-2013, 03:50 PM
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Not sure where you are located, but the alternator you bought amperage wise at 50 seems almost inadequate for a turbo with accesories and lights all on, look here Porsche 911 & Carrera Charging System - Page 1 you ll see the pelican replacements are 75 amps for a 79 turbo, also read the bullitan in the blue header, it explains the conversion to internally regulated and why the warning light will stay on with the wrong amperage bulb for the new alternator. My 89 930 alternator went out yesterday so I m lookimg at the 400 dollar replacent, at 75 amps and the 95 amp Bosch upgrade from Australia so I csn run additional rally lights with no issues, the bullitan should really help you, it says shaft sizes went from M16 to 17 so you need the corresponding parts for the upgrade as well as the ducting modification for the regulator on the back of the alternator.

Good luck sorting it out.

Ben
Old 05-25-2013, 08:15 AM
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I meant my '79 same year as yours, ;-)
Old 05-25-2013, 08:17 AM
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Turbofrog
 
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DUH, so much for the easy way out replacing the whole unit. I think I'm going to shave my spacer out so I can reuse it.

I think my ducting is already sorted out and I have lost/skipped most of the electrical accessories. I hope 50 is enough with a battery tender.

Thanks for your time guys.

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79 930: HX40S#16, MS3pro+ID1000+044+E85, Ignition: 123/TUNE/MSD6A, True split BB, 2*turbosmart38
Old 05-25-2013, 08:24 AM
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