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Turbofrog
 
smurfbus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Europe
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Driver side inner CV replacement under the car?

Has any of you changed it without removing the axle from the hub? Mine is 79 and I saw the inner boot has a tear so I bought a new CV and boot from our host. Now reading the Bentley (non turbo) it only says to take the axle out for the swap.

I have used a puller before to take the CV out so that is doable under the car but how about hammering the new on on? Is it major PITA or just doable?

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79 930: HX40Super, MS3pro+ID1000+044+E85, Ignition: 123/TUNE/MSD6A, BB+2*turbosmart38, WMI. Weight 1110kg
Old 06-09-2013, 08:39 PM
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Maybe, but it would be easier to just remove the outer CV from the hub or stub axle and not do it under the car. Then you can also replace the outer boot while you're at it.

Use a long pry bar inserted between the big allen head bolt heads with the handle edge against something solid like the ground under the car if it's on jack stands or the bottom of the car if it's up higher to keep the CV and axle from turning while you're loosening or tightening the allen head bolts.
Old 06-10-2013, 07:02 AM
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Turbofrog
 
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Thanks. I have the inner cv bolts already loose. Is it just the hub side big axle nut I have to remove to get the axle out? Maybe also shock lover bolt?

There seems to be different axles and cvs on different model years and IIRC 79 had removable cvs on both ends. I hope the axle comes with the outer cv.
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79 930: HX40Super, MS3pro+ID1000+044+E85, Ignition: 123/TUNE/MSD6A, BB+2*turbosmart38, WMI. Weight 1110kg
Old 06-10-2013, 09:43 AM
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When I replaced all 4 of mine I didn't remove the stub axle from the hub, I unbolted the allen head bolts from it but you have to have the inner CV bolted up to the transmission flange in order to put the prybar in between the allen head bolt heads to keep the axle from turning while loosening and tightening the outer CV allen head bolts.

The emergency brake should hold it in place from turning too but if you're doing all this while laying on the ground under the car while it's up on jackstands like I do the long prybar trick is a lot easier and faster because you don't have to get out from under the car again and again during the whole process.

I guess you could remove the big castellated nut from the end of the stub axle and pull it out of the hub with the outer CV on it. Thats thing is on there real tight though, and goes back on real tight.
Old 06-10-2013, 10:40 AM
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Turbofrog
 
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Cant I use wheel bolts the same way? I would think the force is not too bad for them either? Last time I had a look I could not even see the outer cv allen bolts? I guess I need to take a closer look again. Right now Im sorting out bad idle. This is postponed till the weather gets bad and I have to work inside.
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79 930: HX40Super, MS3pro+ID1000+044+E85, Ignition: 123/TUNE/MSD6A, BB+2*turbosmart38, WMI. Weight 1110kg
Old 06-10-2013, 10:50 AM
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Yes, you can use the wheel studs when the car is on jackstands because the ground isn't far away to brace the end of it. I used to do it that way with a piece of pipe years ago before I had a long prybar.

If the car is up in the air on a lift and you're working under it there may be no where to brace the end of a long prybar or pipe placed between the wheel studs and then the other way I mentioned will work.
It's still the better way because you don't have to get out from under the car to reposition the pipe between the wheel studs as you rotate the axle a little at a time to have good access to all the allen head bolts.

A mechanics prybar is like a real thick 4 sided shank flat blade screwdriver where the end is bent over about 20 degrees.
You can get them real cheap at harbor freight or pay alot for one off a snapon truck. The snapon one is hopefully made of better steel but who knows.

When working on different cars at a shop all day it is one of the most useful rock ape tools you'll have along with a machinest scribe.

The 24" one in this set from harbor freight tools is perfect for this.
4 Piece Heavy Duty Pry Bar Set
Old 06-10-2013, 05:03 PM
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Pure Awesomeness
 
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I just did this on my car. All four joints.

I would not recommend taking out the hub axle. Just remove the hex nuts. Use something to lube them up first, and really clean out the nuts before trying to loosen. Yeah you have to get under your car, but its so much easier imo

I removed one side's axle nut - it was not easy. And now I am worried I didn't tighten it enough. Ah, it's probably on there well enough. I used a breaker bar and gave it a good bounce about 2ft out to generate ~300lbs of torque. The other side I (or Pete!) just removed the hex nuts. Went way faster.

Make sure you lube those bearings well! I learned the expensive hard way!!!!
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:27 PM
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Turbofrog
 
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Thanks guys. oh, thats a pry bar. I have made one my self bending a round long screw driver but that does not work on this case as it would slip. I will try the wheel studs first if I can't find one of those square ones locally. We dont have harbor or snapon here but couple of other chains that have plenty of stuff.

The axle nut seems PITA so hopefully I have the removable CV on the outer end aswell. My audi has 180nm + half turn but this one seems much tighter.

Still fighting bad idle with my new distributor. I might start a new thread to get more opinions/ideas on that.
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79 930: HX40Super, MS3pro+ID1000+044+E85, Ignition: 123/TUNE/MSD6A, BB+2*turbosmart38, WMI. Weight 1110kg
Old 06-10-2013, 08:23 PM
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All I just did the same thing for my rears...I removed the wheel and I just placed a screw driver in between the rotors and the screw driver rested on the top part of the caliper..Since they are slotted to vent the heat..NO pry bar needed unless I am missing something..Then I repeated and torqued to spec. Pus it was easier to remove the axle and replace the boots....

No pry bar and park brake was not engaged....BTW make sure to use Loctite, clean grease of bolts and torque to SPEC!!!!

Unless I am missing something after a long day...Cheers all

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"My third child that will cost more in the long run" :shock:

Last edited by vascott01; 06-11-2013 at 04:02 PM..
Old 06-11-2013, 03:59 PM
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