Neccesary to drop engine to replace plugs(stock 3.3L)
 

On my car, I have no AC, so on the right side, the three plugs are in plain view.

On the left side...I can't see any of the plugs, so is this a matter of taking everything off that left side(intercooler, turbo plumbing, etc) to get to the other three plugs, or will the motor hav to be dropped to get access to these.

I am most of the time a DYI-er, but right now, this looks pretty involved, and may be beyond my scope/tools, etc.

Appreciate any advice/feedback.

:D

Is this a serious question?

No. Plugs can changed with the engine in place. Removing the intercooler plumbing will improve access, but with the correct tools I can R&R plus without touching anything else. I do have small arms and hands (I am a scrawny 135lbs).

The best tool for removing and installing plugs is from the factory and should be part of the factory tool roll. I like to use a torque wrench when tightening the plugs and in my experience this is where you need to remove parts to gain access because the torque wrench is so damn long.

What jw says ^.
I just grabbed a pic of mine. This is what works best. It should be in your tool roll, unless a PO like me nicked it!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372850170.jpg
Gears progress, Jake?

IC has to come off. then its just #1 that is hard to get to. wait til you do a valve adjustment.
then i losen the tube that goes into the turbo and can move it a little out of the way which helps.

Gears are sitting on the shelf. Hurricane Sandy flooding messed up my plans to make this a winter project. Don't want to put the car up during track season, so this waits until next winter.

That's a shame, you would have really enjoyed the difference. Something to look forward to for next season!
Apologies for the hijack TT.
Normal programming resumed.

For the left side if air pump and assorted crap are still on, you will get at the plugs easily once this equipment is removed also inter cooler and rubber air intake boot, bit of a pain.

On my car with the power steering on the right-hand side, I removed the engine tin to gain access to #6 plug from the below. I'm guessing that the left side plugs can be accessed this way too if the air injection is in place.

When I purchased my 930 the seller informed me that a partial engine drop was required to replace #1. As a teen I recall hearing this urban legend. It makes one wonder what shops spin for stories when presenting the invoice for payment. I replaced #1 without removing anything, but it took some patience and time with the tool, and a few scars (I am not 135 lbs). This past winter I removed the IC and hoses to change the o-rings and it was a snap to remove #1. Every year I dig a bit deeper. This Board is great source of encouragement and information.

Agree 100% with Jacob's response. My big hands can reach in there no problem too with the IC in place and I am running a much larger 3/4 bay intercooler.

Regards - Yasin

i always take the bolts out of the rear motor mounts drop the engine about 4 inches which you can do without unhooking anything. then change them from underneath. Just run it in the air with a floor jack on the engine like in Wayne's book. put it on jack stands, remove the two bolts lower the jack back down a few inches. easiest way and no skinned knuckles. or cut up forearms. and you can use a socket and ratchet.

hi Tilikum, wanted to flow-up with you plugs replacement. Were you able to get it done? If so, any lesson learned or hints?

Ken, i might try your way. I have a 82 Euro 930 44Kmiles, it has Air Pump.

thanks

I did plugs and a valve adjust as Ken911 suggests, just lower the rear of the engine a few inches. just watch for any wiring or stuff to get hung up. I also removed tins for other reasons at the time, so made a lot easier.

Takes maybe three minutes to jack the car up, place the jack stands, remove the two rear engine mount bolts and lower the engine enough that you can easily reach the plugs via the driver's wheel well. Add about five minutes on the other end to reverse the process after the plugs have been changed. I'd be surprised if these eight (or so) minutes don't result in a net savings of both time and effort.

^^bingo just how I did it!

nice. Thanks guys. I'll try it this weekend, dropping it a little. I've changed plugs on 83SC but first time on 82 euro turbo. I'm thinking of doing as much service as possible since I'm there. There's a couple leaks i'll try to address. Might also change :valve gasket, adjust/check valve clearance, change case breather gasket, thermostat gasket, oil pressure seals, even might want to replace rear oil cooler seals but think i'm being too ambitious.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389875940.jpg

Your are in good hands with George-Dynamic... :)

Walt

^all this^, and I like to pull the wheels too as it affords more light to the general vicinity and great access to everything

Maaaajor FU moment on what would have / should have been an easypeasy sparkplug job was the removable aluminum tip of the #1 plug decided to dislodge w/ the wire boot and then wedge between the plug's hex head and the head wall.

THAT was a major kickindanutes! Many hours / swears / bierzez. Gooooood times. Not.

My therapist (bier) tells me I'm well on my way to coming to terms w/ that incident... right up there with... header studs. >SHUDDERS<

Gorgeous '82... another grey popping up, weird.

Walt, yes sir. Thanks to you. I'm heading to Dynamic this weekend to start working.