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Location: Cape Canaveral Florida
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Temp AC Fix?

So my AC was charged last year and it lasted about 2-3 months before we were back to luke warm. I need to move the car a couple of hours down the road and with the rain, closed window driving is a bit warm (try sauna like!). I drive the car once a week to exercise it with fair weather window down driving which is still pretty hot here in Florida.


So my question: Without doing any mods, can I pump a bunch of the R134 from the Cans with the kit/gauge that you get at autozone into the system and cool the car without tearing anything up? I get that it is temporary and it is going to leak out again. I just need it to work a few days at a time.

I plan on doing a Mr. Ice type 134 conversion project this Fall but I am not ready to do it yet. I was hoping to use my compressor on that mod as well so I would like to not blow it up or anything.


Thoughts?

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Mark

1986 930 Ultra-Smith RUF Slant Nose conversion, RUF VB, K-27 HF-S, B&B Headers and Exhaust, RUF Short Shifter, RUF Interior
Old 07-03-2013, 09:50 AM
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You can do that as long as your system has been converted to 134 and you don't exceed the max low and high side pressures.
Old 07-03-2013, 10:16 AM
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es12a....
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Tim
1986 930
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:42 AM
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check out some of the r12 compatible hydro carbon based replacements at links like this one:

Freeze 12 Freon Replacement: EPA Approved!

it could be all you need to do to solve your problem, assuming seals are good.

I have some on the way to me now and should have it charged within a week or so. I can give you feedback at that time if you can wait that long.

I am going to try the es12a industrial stuff. if it works, great! and if it doesn't, it won't break the bank and was worth the experiment.
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Emery

1988 930 coupe - Silver Metallic
3.3L w/GT35R, B&B Headers, RarlyL8 muffler, TurboKraft IC, Tial WG, tecGT based phased sequential EFI & ignition, Wevo shifter/coupler, ...
Old 07-03-2013, 11:32 AM
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R12 and R134 systems have two different kinds of valves for charging the system, so you cannot mix the two up. If you have the big blue non-schraeder valve, you have 134.
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s5uewf View Post
check out some of the r12 compatible hydro carbon based replacements at links like this one:

Freeze 12 Freon Replacement: EPA Approved!

it could be all you need to do to solve your problem, assuming seals are good.

I have some on the way to me now and should have it charged within a week or so. I can give you feedback at that time if you can wait that long.

I am going to try the es12a industrial stuff. if it works, great! and if it doesn't, it won't break the bank and was worth the experiment.
Thanks for the link. I will take a look at that.
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Mark

1986 930 Ultra-Smith RUF Slant Nose conversion, RUF VB, K-27 HF-S, B&B Headers and Exhaust, RUF Short Shifter, RUF Interior
Old 07-03-2013, 12:02 PM
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If you're going to replace all the hoses and hardware and start over with new parts you jusr go ahwead and try it and see if it works. Stand back from it in case anything blows up while your charging it... Be careful.

I'd like to hear and know how well the alternatives to R134a work. I've upgraded my entire AC system with around $2000 in parts including an additional serpentine condensor with 10" fan in the left rear wheel well. I use R134a.
It works OK but seems like it could be better.

This is the best price on 30 pound bottles of R134 I've found and it's the good quality name brand stuff made in USA, not the unknown questionable stuff made in China that doesn't always work as well.
Dupont Suva 134a 30lbs Can Refrigerant R 134a Factory SEALED | eBay

You can google chinese R134a and learn more about it.

As far as putting more R134 refrigerent in your system I hope you know whats in it now before adding R134 from a generic can. Don't use the canned stuff with the little gauge on top that has oil mixed in with it. Your system has plenty of oil in it now if it was just charged and adding more will not blow as cold and is bad for the compressor. It bogs everything down.
Old 07-03-2013, 01:03 PM
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I was using R12, then I developed a small leak that required a charge once a year, so I switched to Freeze 12, no change in temp, then, when Freeze 12 became harder to get i bought a case of ES12a. Blows just as cold as the R12 did, and it's dirt cheap, so I just add a can every year ($6). Works fine for me. I still have 15-20 cans of R12, so if I ever get around to finding the leak I may go back to R12, or, maybe not....the es12a works great as is.

tim
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Old 07-05-2013, 06:24 PM
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When I ran the AC system on my 911, I was never really too happy with it.

But there is something you can do with your current system. At Home depot, they sell insulation foam padding for tubing, to keep hot water lines hot(to make the water heater not run so much).

AC works in the same way. The further you move the delta-T(that is spread between the inlet and outlet temperature, the greater efficiency, just like a larger intercooler provides a cooler inlet to the engine).

So take all COLD AC tubing in the engine bay and insulate it from th heat soak of the engine. If your not sure, run the car at idle with the AC running for while.

The lines that sweat)and cold to the touch are the ones you want to insulate. The hot lines from the AC system...you want to keep those as clean as possible to enhance their ability to disipate heat.

Before I did this, the temp coming out of my drivers side slot port was something like 42 degrees F...after I cleaned all the HOT lines, and insulated the cold line...that temp dropped down to the teens, and made the car much more tolerable to drive in the Summer. The whole process took about 2 hours, and cost about 15 bucks.

Good luck if you take this route.


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Old 07-06-2013, 03:07 PM
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