Aar / decel valve delete final check pls
 

Want to clean up unecessary items/clean engine compartment.... Have read a ton of posts about deleting these two . And before they break or cause air leaks or gremlins..

Questions :

Delete aar ( I live in Florida - always hot ) = cap it off on the intercooler? And on the intake? No problems with this correct?

Delete decel valve ( don't mind the popping on decel ) it's amazingly raw sounding...
Small hose runs to throttle body= cap that?

Two larger hoses on other side one runs to intercooler =cap there?
And the other one runs to the manifold = cap there?

I don't need to run hose from one place to another, just the capping off correct? And thanks again.

Yes, cap it all off.

Thank you sir

Just a note. I also deleted them but ended up reconnecting the AAR after about a year. I travel short distances and would do several cold starts a day. Cold starts we're much more predictable with the AAR. Otherwise it was hit or miss.

I just couldn't take the AAR and 1,500 ++ rpm's when cold. Actually, my neighbors couldn't take it [with the hooligan].

Fixing to go to Zork, so 1,000 rpm starts are what I've ordered for the neighbors. I just use my right foot for the first 30 seconds of the start.

Ok-started pulling everything apart....the small hose (single side) is tee'd and that runs up to the top of my bov...... Any ideas? Thanks

Pictures help a lot

Sorry, not by a computer and the forum doesn't allow me to post pics from my phone...
It's the small hose that runs from the decel valve to the throttle body.... It is has a tee, and the hose runs from the tee to the top of my bov....just trying to figure out if I cap that as well, or replumb somewhere of vent to atmosphere

If I understand you correct, you are talking about the line from the TB to the BOV sensing port. Tid one needs to be hooked up from TB to BOV, otherwise the BOV won't work and you'll get surging.

Jsveb-thank you... That's what I was leaning toward since the line tee's in on the way to the inlet on the throttle body below the butterfly...the whole vacum thing.... Thanks, just wanted another brains thoughts...
-930 learning curve

what have you guys used for caps on the intake and IC for the AAR

For my cap offs--- I found an assorted pack of bypass caps at autozone, help brand...part number 02253 ($4.99)-included (2) 3/8 (2) 1/2 (2) 5/8 (2) 3/4 these covered the IC and manifold

And omc out drives used 1" oil/fuel resistant caps in 1" and 1.5
The one inch is omc part# 909829 or available as a Sierra brand replacement #18-0549 ($8.99) that covered the AAR

Just an update for others like myself-unsure about removing the decel/aar valves.....
put the car back together.....fired right up.....idle was low-like 600rpms....let it warm up for a bit-stayed the same.....readjusted the idle.....purring like a kitten....something must have been a little screwy before removal and the removal let the idle go to where it was set......
so it seems as if a little glitch was repaired by this...
And I tell you this----no screwdriver-no contorionist hand/wrist bending-just put my hand down and turned the idle screw====that alone was worth removing this crap

The AAR never really completely closes off even when full warmed up...there's a small portion of it's 'window' still open, allowing some air to bypass the throttle body and effect the idle. When you removed the AAR, that source of air was taken out of the equation, forcing you to adjust your idle to compensate.

Thanks for the info on the aar Mark.... Good knowledge to have

Well, fwiw my cold start AAR does seal off completey when it's warmed up and closed.
I know it because I have another cable operated valve in the hose after it that terminates at the intake manifold below the throttle body so I can test that by closing it and when I do while the motor and AAR are fully warmned up the motor doesn't slow down any farher, it stays the same rpm.

I put the cable operated valve which is a heater valve for a BMW 320i or Porsche 944 in that hose between the AAR and intake manifold so I could manually lower the idle speed down from the annoying 1800 rpm high idle from inside the car on winter days here in Florida after parking the car for around 20 - 30 minutes when it was fully warmed up.

This is what all K-jetronic and L- jetronic cars with mechanical cold start AAR valves do in the winter when they are at operating temperature and you park for about a half hour and then start them.
The cylinder heads are still hot but the AAR valve opens up when it's in the upper 50's or low 60's and you have a ridiculously high idle for a few minutes until the bimetalic spring inside heats up again and shuts the air valve.

Par for the course, these 25 year old AAR's all act differently. That just proves that yours isn't acting correctly, Jim! :-) (just kidding).
Mine has always had a very slight opening even when fully warm, and my car will do the high idle thing a few minutes after shutdown with temperatures well over 60 degrees. It's annoying, fer shure. I wonder though, even if the window is completely closed, I wonder how much air can still seep past that rotating disc, around it's edges, and perhaps have some minor impact on idle. All conjecture on my part.