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The wire goes to the clutch on the AC
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Old 09-27-2013, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdx930 View Post
The only thing that is changing going from neutral to being in gear is that you are spinning up the input shaft and clutch disk. It really sounds like you have a problem with the pressure plate, maybe a chunk of friction material broke loose, or their is something wrong with the spring/hub assembly.

Also, the parts diagrams show that you should have the large metal washers above and below the rubber part of your engine mounts. In your picture, it looks like you don't have them below.
That's right about that washer, I will get a new one for that.

I let the engine drop and have the pressure plate checked. this makes sense!
Thanks for your help and all other fellow pelicans.

I get back on this when the problem is solved.
Thanks again!

Last edited by klefroid; 09-27-2013 at 04:18 PM..
Old 09-27-2013, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken911 View Post
The wire goes to the clutch on the AC
Ok, I got no AC so that's why i did not fund the source.
Thanks for that on
Old 09-27-2013, 04:19 PM
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found some good information about Clutch Problems,
Troubleshooting, and Service

http://www.g-w.com/pdf/sampchap/9781605252131_ch07.pdf
Old 09-27-2013, 06:02 PM
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The fact the vibration changes with or without engagement makes pressure plate, disc, and throwout bearing suspect for further investigation. Flywheel shouldn't be an issue since clutch actuation affects vibration.
Old 09-28-2013, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tippy View Post
The fact the vibration changes with or without engagement makes pressure plate, disk, and throwout bearing suspect for further investigation. Flywheel shouldn't be an issue since clutch actuation affects vibration.
At this point the pilot bearing will be also suspect.
when I accelerate,the car starts vibrating, I have to engage to make it go away.
Ones the shaft and clutch disk is out of center vibration starts.

when I drive the car starting in sec gear the vibration is less if I don't accelerate to hard, no matter the speed.

At least we know where to look ,like you stated the pressure plate, disk, and throwout bearing will get some further investigation. engine gets out next few day's

Last edited by klefroid; 09-29-2013 at 04:48 AM..
Old 09-28-2013, 08:04 PM
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Yes, forgot, pilot bearing too. Unbelievable if it was left out....
Old 09-28-2013, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tippy View Post
Yes, forgot, pilot bearing too. Unbelievable if it was left out....
Would be cheapest fix I think...
Old 09-29-2013, 04:47 AM
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Let's hope!
Old 09-29-2013, 05:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klefroid View Post
Hi guy's,

Need advice on this one.

A mechanic (not my friend anymore after a lot of stupid things)
put in a new Sachs clutch and flywheel.
But there is a strong vibration at 4000 rpm and gets worse at higher rpm
If the car is at idle it does not appear. It's only when the car accelerates to higher rpm.
once the vibration starts you need to release PUSH the clutch pedal to stop the vibration. If you drive the car at low Rpm all is normal.
It's not speed related. The vibration is very strong, even chassis is making noise.
I changed tranny mounts.
Any suggestions?
Edit
Old 04-18-2014, 02:56 PM
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Still have the vibration as I didn't had the time to go further into this problem.
Now I have more time so before a engine removal I first wanted to change the CV Joints.
I think it are still the original ones. Here's a vid I made to show the axle and CV Joints.
bent axel - metal fatigue cv joints - Porsche 930 Turbo HD - YouTube


All bad I think. But still I think this Will not be the issue to the vibration problem. The whole car is shaking when I'm accelerating. It's to worse to be a bent axle and worn cv's I think.
Maybe I'm wrong. I'm waiting for complete axles to arrive but I'll have to wait another week or so...
Time to fix easy oil leaks

Last edited by klefroid; 04-20-2014 at 04:46 PM..
Old 04-18-2014, 03:11 PM
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Possible that either the flywheel is imbalanced, and hits a resonance point, causing the severe vibration?
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Old 04-19-2014, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tilikum Turbo View Post
Possible that either the flywheel is imbalanced, and hits a resonance point, causing the severe vibration?
Well I did a engine removal today (my first ever), I will post pictures tomorrow because a picture explains more the I can describe due to my poor English.
But I'll try to explain a bit here, The axle (tranny) does not fit tight into the flywheel so there is play. That's why I have the vibration. but there are other things wrong as well... To hard to explain like I said before.

Last edited by klefroid; 04-19-2014 at 03:25 PM..
Old 04-19-2014, 02:51 PM
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Make sure the tech who rebuilt the engine did NOT reuse the flywheel bolts. Those things are torqued once and then throw away after loosening.

Hard to believe someone would forget to put in the pilot bearing after removing the old one, but stranger things have happened I guess.
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Old 04-20-2014, 04:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WERK I View Post
Make sure the tech who rebuilt the engine did NOT reuse the flywheel bolts. Those things are torqued once and then throw away after loosening.

Hard to believe someone would forget to put in the pilot bearing after removing the old one, but stranger things have happened I guess.
Yes it is. Only a few skilled technicians around here but they have no time! you have to wait half a year... the bad ones have time off course! damn, that was a hard lesson. from now on I do it all myself. I'm not the best but I have patients, and I know when something isn't right.So with some help here and reading threads on the pelican forum a lot of work is doable. Thanks to all pelicans out here!

Last edited by klefroid; 04-20-2014 at 04:46 PM..
Old 04-20-2014, 01:34 PM
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Ow btw, New bolts are used when the flywheel was mounted and I did / do not remove it this time. Here is a pic of the old (1977) and new (2013) flywheel.
It's a different type of flywheel to get rid of that rubber hub thing...








So easy to see something is missing .... No wonder I had such strong vibrations!

Have to buy another starter ring to because they did not change it when the new clutch kit was installed. There was some pitting and worn, so they flipped the starter ring






A new bendix is on it's way to match the new starter ring



Last edited by klefroid; 04-20-2014 at 01:55 PM..
Old 04-20-2014, 01:41 PM
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That's unbelievable. Have you had a little "chat" with the hack posing as a mechanic?
Good on ya for doing your own work.
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Old 04-20-2014, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by pkabush View Post
That's unbelievable. Have you had a little "chat" with the hack posing as a mechanic?
Good on ya for doing your own work.
Yes I did had a chat with them and a had a little refund. It's about a year ago I got the car back and bit by bit she gets back to where I want it to be.
The last time I had a run without any issue was 2 years ago just before she went to that Porsche serial killer.

They still have a lot of very nice cars coming to there shop... unbelievable

But I like to move forward now and let it go what happened there. I'm just glad that I'm able to do some work myself.

Last edited by klefroid; 04-21-2014 at 01:10 AM..
Old 04-21-2014, 12:59 AM
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I admire your patience, klefroid! If that'd happened to me, blood would be spilled.

When I installed my last 930 clutch, I used split lock washers underneath the clutch pressure plate mounting bolts that screw into the flywheel because I'd forgotten what was there when I took it apart. WRONG! The thickness of the split washer caused the bolt heads to contact the inside of the bellhousing as the crankshaft rotated. I believe that a wavy, or Belleville washer goes there instead (check PET or Pelican). I can't believe that I'm the only idiot that's done that. After you mate the trans to the engine, make sure that the crank spins freely. Just a friendly reminder.
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Old 04-21-2014, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87 930 View Post
I admire your patience, klefroid! If that'd happened to me, blood would be spilled.

When I installed my last 930 clutch, I used split lock washers underneath the clutch pressure plate mounting bolts that screw into the flywheel because I'd forgotten what was there when I took it apart. WRONG! The thickness of the split washer caused the bolt heads to contact the inside of the bellhousing as the crankshaft rotated. I believe that a wavy, or Belleville washer goes there instead (check PET or Pelican). I can't believe that I'm the only idiot that's done that. After you mate the trans to the engine, make sure that the crank spins freely. Just a friendly reminder.
Thanks for the friendly reminder! will keep that in mind! Thats one thing less that could go wrong... any advice is welcome there it's my first time.

I'm wondering if you could change the chain tensioner easy without needing to change the timing? anyone? I like to stay out off the engine as much as possible! except for cam settings
Old 04-22-2014, 08:29 AM
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