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Chain fence eating turbo
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
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Curious how this thing compares to your old Garrett.
Old 11-18-2013, 08:12 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #121 (permalink)
Brando
 
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"And I didn't see any evidence of JB Weld in your video - what's up with that?! "

Hey, anywhere I may roam
where I use jb weld is home.
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Turbo powa!
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Last edited by quattrorunner; 11-18-2013 at 08:26 PM..
Old 11-18-2013, 08:22 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #122 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tippy View Post
Curious how this thing compares to your old Garrett.
Yeah me too. Can't wait.
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:23 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #123 (permalink)
Chain fence eating turbo
 
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Here's a great read for Holsets. Hp is hp, so although an apples to oranges comparison, the power potential is fairly equal across 4-8 cylinder engines regarding overall hp capability of a given turbo.

Just fast forward past compressor maps and you'll see dyno numbers, spool onset, airflow numbers, and 1/4 mile times:

Holset Turbos, RESULTS ONLY (COMPLETE INSTALLED SYSTEMS) - DSM Forums
Old 11-18-2013, 08:31 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #124 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quattrorunner View Post
"And I didn't see any evidence of JB Weld in your video - what's up with that?! "

Hey, anywhere I may roam
where I use jb weld is home.
I wonder if that's what James Hetfield had in mind?
Old 11-18-2013, 08:36 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #125 (permalink)
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Probably not
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Turbo powa!
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Last edited by quattrorunner; 11-18-2013 at 08:48 PM..
Old 11-18-2013, 08:44 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #126 (permalink)
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The saga continues. The turbo is leaking badly. I got oil coming from the exhaust flanges, and it gets worse when I rev it. I haven't driven it, it's pointless. What a bummer. I do have a rebuild kit. Guess I'll need it. Crap.
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:03 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #127 (permalink)
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And the ebay ad said it is in good working order? I guess you should make a claim to get money partially back as the item was not as described.

But rebuilding it is not too hard, just mark the compressor wheel position in relation to the shaft prior to take the compressor nut off (make a scratch).

Here's the Holset repair manual: http://wright-here.net/files/holset_info/HX35_40.pdf

I have done the refreshment-job on turbos several times, just take your time and inspect shaft for wear and measure with micrometer. Clean everything well and put together. Never had a failed repair when components are good.
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Old 11-20-2013, 12:21 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #128 (permalink)
Chain fence eating turbo
 
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Not sure if a Holset needs index marks for the comp wheel to turb shaft as they are component balanced.

But, if you could put the unbalance locations 180 degrees apart from each other, that'd be ideal. Or if you were super nerdy, you could do trig to figure out how to null unbalance between both ends.

Of course you have to know unbalance of both wheels that the average DIY'er doesn't know. Ah never mind.
Old 11-20-2013, 04:43 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #129 (permalink)
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On HX35 it is needed and I would not trust even the manual that states that with double-hexagon nut there is no need to mark the position. This is something so simple to do that I would not take any chances.
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:11 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #130 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quattrorunner View Post
Probably not
I know its a bummer, but I think I would inspect and rebuild a unit if I got it cheap on fleabay etc. I have read holset can have worn bearings and you can hardly feel it.

Though not what you hoped for, it is much better now than throwing fragments into your engine in a few miles.

Good luck, we are following your progress.
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:15 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #131 (permalink)
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I'll do this as soon as I can. The work to put the turbo in and then to take it out and dismantle it bums me out. It's not that big of a deal but you know. I just want to drive it.
I think I'll run it without the scavenge line attached again just to be sure. Wondering if the 2mm hole is too big too. Lots of things running through my mind like the fact I have cam line restrictors installed which gives lots of oil pressure on startup as well. Just wondering why it's leaking. Second guessing things. I'm sure the rebuild will sort it out.

I'll rebuild it tonight, looks pretty easy. I have everything needed.

Last edited by quattrorunner; 11-20-2013 at 08:48 AM..
Old 11-20-2013, 06:17 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #132 (permalink)
 
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[QUOTE=Raceboy;7765604]
But rebuilding it is not too hard, just mark the compressor wheel position in relation to the shaft prior to take the compressor nut off (make a scratch).
QUOTE]

Don't scratch a compressor wheel or turbine wheel blade to mark it's position.. use a fresh sharpee pen. Thats how turbo rebuilders do it and scratching a blade creates a small stress riser in the surface metal and thats kinda like scoring glass to break it on the score line.
At the incredible speeds those things spin at and the centrifical force and pressure changes they experience a scratch on the blade surface could possibly let the blade break apart at the scratch.
Old 11-20-2013, 08:52 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #133 (permalink)
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QUOTE]

Don't scratch a compressor wheel or turbine wheel blade to mark it's position.. use a fresh sharpee pen. Thats how turbo rebuilders do it and scratching a blade creates a small stress riser in the surface metal and thats kinda like scoring glass to break it on the score line.
At the incredible speeds those things spin at and the centrifical force and pressure changes they experience a scratch on the blade surface could possibly let the blade break apart at the scratch.[/QUOTE]

Noted
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Turbo powa!
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Old 11-20-2013, 09:00 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #134 (permalink)
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Not the blade! The base near the compressor nut.

EDIT: Also do not losen the compressor nut before you have marked the position because quite often the compressor wheel will rotate when releasing the nut.
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Last edited by Raceboy; 11-20-2013 at 10:56 AM..
Old 11-20-2013, 10:39 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #135 (permalink)
Chain fence eating turbo
 
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I agree, never put a scratch on a rotating part. The high metal will create a point where a fracture could start and rapidly explode.
Old 11-20-2013, 04:12 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #136 (permalink)
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Are we talking about the same thing here?
There is nothing wrong with marking a position with marker needle near the nut, the compressor wheel will never explode.
And I have been in quite a few turbo rebuild shops, they never use a pen because you can try how you want but the dot from the permanent pen will be washed off on the shaft.

I have rebuilt quite a few turbos and some of them have tens of thousands of km's on them, never exploded and all of them have lightly "scratched" nut bases.
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Old 11-20-2013, 07:54 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #137 (permalink)
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Tonight I rebuilt that hx35. That was really simple. Hope the kit is good quality.
The parts coming out didn't seem too bad. Makes me nervous. Plus I didn't mark it! After all that talk I didn't mark it!! I get so excited to do a project sometimes I forget really important things. I hope it's not too out of balance.
Most my time tonight was spent screwing around with stupid stuff. I put the o-ring around the compressor housing to avoid leaks but the huge snap ring wouldn't go on after that so after an exhausting hour, I removed it. It all went together after that.

Earlier today I got an email from someone notable and reputable looking at the Garrett. Seems there is a chip in one go the blades. and he said Garrett mentioned that it looked like something went through the turbine wheel too. Just like some of you mentioned. The compressor wheel I can see, since I had the Intercooler off the better part of the day and I have kids but the turbine I don't understand. And both? they thought it looked like a bad filter, foreign particle or some sort. They only saw pictures so far. The chip is real unless it happened while I took the assembly apart but I don't know. This stuff is all new to me.
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:28 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #138 (permalink)
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You should put the O-ring of the compressor housing back on, it will leak otherwise and increases lag. The O-ring should be applied onto backplate, not on the compressor housing.
It is not easy, but you have to basically sit on it, then it accepts the snap-on ring.
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:03 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #139 (permalink)
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Great
Old 11-21-2013, 05:55 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #140 (permalink)
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