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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clifton, VA
Posts: 153
1979 engine drop

All:

First off many thanks to all and any comments...


This being my first attempt. I want to do this with the most minimal FUBAR as possible. I would like to only drop the engine but if needed based on your comments I will drop trans and engine.

Reason I am doing this is for a valve adjustment, hoses, oil return tubes, fix leaks and clean and inspect.I know I am opening a can of worms but this car needs attention...

I have a scissor lift, engine lift/yolk and many tools to do this but need to know what Special tools would be best for dropping my 1979 930. e.g engine plate etc...

As always your experience with performing such is greatly appreciative..

regards...scott
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Scott

1979 930 - Black on Black and in the woods

"My third child that will cost more in the long run" :shock:
Old 01-13-2014, 03:59 PM
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Aircooled Breakfast
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Wyoming
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Hi Scott,

There are many "engine drop threads" here so you may want to grab a beverage and spend a few minutes searching and see what others have done. I've done it both ways but, for me, it's much easier to drop the engine and tranny as a unit. Look out for the little "gotchas" like the ground strap at the firewall and the shift linkage coupler in the tunnel. Not a bad job. Good luck! -John
Old 01-13-2014, 04:39 PM
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Drop both the engine and tranny, I'm not really sure how you would do only one practically, but I know it can be done. Two criticals are the trans strap and the speedo wire - neither are very visible, which is why they're forgotten. Buy Wayne's 101 project book, use the procedure checklist (and some common sense as each engine may differ a bit). Think about cracking nuts on the ground, on the lift, or on an engine stand, at least break loose some stubborn ones while you have the engine securely in the car. The engine with and w/out trans is very awkward and will require a few helping hands to get up on stand. Can you drop engine, separate trans, roll car out of the way and use the lift to get the engine to the proper height for the engine stand? Remove your bumper for more room, but I dropped mine only removing the valence and had plenty of room (I don't have an intercooler though). Wart h out for trans shaft getting hung up in firewall, need to drop down and to the rear, easiest to do on a furn dolly, palette with wheels (I use a forklift to get it on the stand), motorcycle /atv jack.
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Infraredcalvin - AKA Pat
'76 Turbo Carrera #311 - Factory LSD, Sport Seats
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Old 01-13-2014, 06:43 PM
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I really (really) gotta stop loggin in here >goes off to fold kids' laundry and correct homework<

srsly tho, good luck on the drop!
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krasuskyp View Post
I really (really) gotta stop loggin in here >goes off to fold kids' laundry and correct homework<

srsly tho, good luck on the drop!
Dooooh it... She's calling your name...
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Infraredcalvin - AKA Pat
'76 Turbo Carrera #311 - Factory LSD, Sport Seats
'75 914 GT clone project
'74 914 track basket-case
Old 01-13-2014, 07:13 PM
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Scott.

For the items you've mentioned, and considering that you have a scissor lift, you really don't have to remove that engine. Unless of course you're planning to inspect the clutch and the rear main seal.

Everything else you've mentioned can be done with the engine in the car, and for a couple of things with the engine lowered. It is also possible for you to remove just the engine.. however, as stated it is more difficult for some than others.
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Old 01-14-2014, 08:43 AM
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Many thanks all...I will keep you posted...
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Scott

1979 930 - Black on Black and in the woods

"My third child that will cost more in the long run" :shock:
Old 01-16-2014, 02:46 PM
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Agreed with Onboost, unless you have a need to disconnect the transmission for a clutch job or something, everything you are planning to do can be done with the motor in the car. Certainly it would be easier with it out, but really you are just adding a few hours to your project.
If you do remove it go ahead and remove them as a pair, coming out wouldn't be that bad, but going back would be a real PITA. A good floor jack and a 2x6 about 2 feet long placed on the headers under cylinders #3 & #6 balances really well and allows you to rock the motor so you can get the transmission out of the tunnel. Good Luck~
J
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Old 01-16-2014, 03:01 PM
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