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So, Mr. Fecal Touch, are you saying that you have been beating on the front hubs with a sledge hammer? If so, you might want to now take that hammer to your cranium!
Old 01-26-2014, 04:48 PM
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rears there Don Rickles...

I know reading comprehension ain't exactly the strong suit down there in Texass:

Quote:
Originally Posted by krasuskyp View Post
How the heck do you get the rear spacers off?
8-)
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Old 01-26-2014, 05:43 PM
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rears there Don Rickles...

I know reading comprehension ain't exactly the strong suit down there in Texass:



8-)
Yep, all that thar inbreeding takes its toll on us TexASS folk!
Old 01-26-2014, 05:50 PM
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Robbing Roland's pic he just posted as it beats the heck out of the craptastic cellshot I was just about to post of mine:
Hey, you know that's illegal!!!
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Old 01-26-2014, 11:54 PM
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If nothing already suggested helps getting them off you could try tapping a knife blade in between the spacer and hub seam with a brass hammer to get it started. Then prybar it from there.
Sounds like the spacer is corrosion stuck on to the hub centric part of the hub. Heat from a propane or map torch to expand the aluminum spacer more than the cast iron hub and penetrating oil like WD40 might help there.
Old 01-27-2014, 08:19 AM
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thanks Jim - got one off last night pretty much doing what you said (putty knife then large screw driver pounded in)

took some back 'n forthing but it finally came off - what a pain

now need to cut the rear studs to fit the spacers... that promises to be a fun endeavor I'm certain 8-/
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
If nothing already suggested helps getting them off you could try tapping a knife blade in between the spacer and hub seam with a brass hammer to get it started. Then prybar it from there.
Sounds like the spacer is corrosion stuck on to the hub centric part of the hub. Heat from a propane or map torch to expand the aluminum spacer more than the cast iron hub and penetrating oil like WD40 might help there.
Don't use WD40 along with a torch!! Some ingredients in WD40 can convert to "mustard" gas when subjected to high heat. It can cause permanent nerve damage when breathed in.

Paul, I would follow WPOZZZ's suggestion first or Jacob's suggestion 2nd to get that stubborn spacer off. You deserve not to have any more drama!

Edit...good to see that you finally got on spacer off. I don't understand about the need to cut the studs for the spacers? Is it a special spacer with its own studs?
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:47 AM
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The stock spacer is just a spacer, slides over the stock long studs. When adding an aftermarket spacer that typically has studs in it, you will need to cut your stock studs or replace with shorter versions. An alternative is to simply keep the stock spacer and stack the aftermarket one on top.
Old 01-27-2014, 09:55 AM
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exactly Chris - the OE studs w/ 40mm spacer bolted on (which then contains wheel studs) end up protruding out too far and into the rear recesses of the wheel, thereby needing to be cut.

I'm envisioning sitting there w/ a hacksaw, and am none too looking forward to that x10. Fug!

Just got $20's worth of nuts to hold on the rear spacers, have 15mm front spacers en-route, and about to order new longer front studs (more unexpected $$$ - awesome).

Had nooooo idea this would be suuuuch a project (remember: I'm not smaht).

Gets worse too, f'n 295 Sumi's leave the rim lip protruding ENTIRELY too far! D'oh. I'm floored how stretched they are on 9s & 11s! Off they come, have to try something w/ hopefully a wider section width, a 255 up front, and a 35 rear profile not 30 as they're too rubberbandy.

Back to mounting guy, back to Tire Rack, back to mounting guy. Oy.

Tho... really hard to bellyache about "problems", Mark's tragedy has definitely f'd my perspective...
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Old 01-27-2014, 10:17 AM
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You shouldn't need longer front studs if you're using spacers w built in studs. They go over the stock ones, have recesses for a lug nut, you'll see.
GL
C
Old 01-27-2014, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tt surgeon View Post
You shouldn't need longer front studs if you're using spacers w built in studs. They go over the stock ones, have recesses for a lug nut, you'll see.
GL
C
Depends if it's about an inch spacer like mine in the front, the studs are too long and protrude beyond the spacer. So the wheel hits them and will not seat correctly. What I had to do was get longer wheel studs install them in the front hub then remove the studs from the spacer and install similar to the stock rear spacer.
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:13 AM
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Hmmm, Chris... hadn't thought of that (duh?).

Something like this:

Eibach Pro-Spacer Wheel Spacers 1986-1989 Porsche 959 - Part Number: 90.6.15.018.2 - Sparktec Motorsports - Pro-Spacer Kit

Could return the ones I just ordered, would save me having to order longer studs - but - may have me having to cut the studs like the rear.

Or should I just stay the course w/ the studless ones I ordered and go w/ the longer studs?

Trying to figure out WTF the deal is w/ the tires... none of them "popped" when they were inflated, but I drove a couple miles and they seem fine. But the lip is pronounced enough I can see it from behind the car! Doesn't seem right.

Should I deflate and see if they pop out upon re-inflation?
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:57 AM
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Paul, no real help here regarding the tires other than it seems strange that they would hold air if the bead wasn't seated . . .

You really don't want to cut wheel studs with a hacksaw - would be a miserable job that would look like sh@t, too! Do you have an air compressor at home? If you do, you should consider buying a pneumatic die grinder, a cut-off wheel bit for it, and a package of carbide wheels/discs (also some grinding stones to dress the cuts). These tools are not very expensive, and this way, the cutting routine wouldn't be so bad and look much better.
Old 01-27-2014, 12:12 PM
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Paul, no real help here regarding the tires other than it seems strange that they would hold air if the bead wasn't seated . . .

You really don't want to cut wheel studs with a hacksaw - would be a miserable job that would look like sh@t, too! Do you have an air compressor at home? If you do, you should consider buying a pneumatic die grinder, a cut-off wheel bit for it, and a package of carbide wheels/discs (also some grinding stones to dress the cuts). These tools are not very expensive, and this way, the cutting routine wouldn't be so bad and look much better.
just drive them out and install shorter ones. The studs come in several different lengths.You start cutting on them then they will no longer weigh the same as the one next to it, and it will throw the hub out of balance. At those speeds it doesn't take a lot of difference. an out of balance hub will lead to a whole new learning experience with replacing wheel bearings. They are really easy to just drive out and replace, much easier than cutting them. plus you can save the old ones in case you want to go back to stock.
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Old 01-27-2014, 12:18 PM
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^^^ Excellent advise - my brother recently did this with his 944 Turbo - better, by far, than cutting them (not sure why that slipped my mind - must be the TexASS connection again)!
Old 01-27-2014, 12:21 PM
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How about changing the wheel halves to make the wheels a different offset? Just thinking out of the box.
Old 01-27-2014, 01:44 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions... was trying to defray install costs by not buying new half's or studs where avoidable - but I hear you regarding the cutting, I'd said I knew that would be miserable. New studs it is then.

I've got a compressor, but like everything else I own it's busted (clicks but won't start - solenoid? No time or $ to investigate). Yes my life's like country song most daze, yes I'm painfully aware 8-/. If nothing more, it should make you all feel better 'bout yerselves or at least some bemusement. Even in Texass!

Not sure WTF the deal is on the tires... I'll post a picture... I was stunned how stretched a 295 & 245 were on 9s & 11s (confirmed the wheel measurement, they're def that).

As the (Paulie)World Turnz...
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Old 01-27-2014, 01:51 PM
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Side bar....

But any advice on where to get different studs? I removed the rear spacer on my car and my rear spacers are WAY longer than they need to be. Just curious.

Thanks!

Chris.
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:05 PM
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Before you buy studs measure what you need and post a wtb. I might have some 66mm , but I have to check. Lots of people swapping shorter for longer ones, no reason to pay $7 per stud, the 66s (and probably shorter) are pretty available.

As for tires, so your tire sidewall is protruding past the rim? Some tires do so more than others, in fact some are like that on purpose to protect the rim from a brush with the curb. As long as you're not exceeding the specs of the min/max rim width for the tire width, you should be ok.
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Old 01-27-2014, 05:00 PM
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As for tires, so your tire sidewall is protruding past the rim? Some tires do so more than others, in fact some are like that on purpose to protect the rim from a brush with the curb. As long as you're not exceeding the specs of the min/max rim width for the tire width, you should be ok.
I believe that Paul is saying that the lip of the rim sticks out way past the tire (like the tire is not wide enough for the wheel). . .
Old 01-27-2014, 05:13 PM
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