Track day mod's for 930's

[Deer]

Long time reader of the forum, but new as a registered member! I'm doing the occasional track-day events with my beloved 930, and want to improve it for this purpose. And given that this forum has a lot of knowledgeable people with many ideas, I'd love to hear some good suggestions. I might add that i adore my 930's originality (even with US to Euro conversion going on) so the mod's would be not to radical.

[Deer]

Long time reader of the forum, but new as a registered member!
I'm doing the occasional track-day events with my beloved 930, and want to improve it for this purpose. And given that this forum has a lot of knowledgeable people with many ideas, I'd love to hear some good suggestions.

I might add that i adore my 930's originality (even with US to Euro conversion going on) so the mod's would be not to radical.

[Deer]

Long time reader of the forum, but new as a registered member!
I'm doing the occasional track-day events with my beloved 930, and want to improve it for this purpose. And given that this forum has a lot of knowledgeable people with many ideas, I'd love to hear some good suggestions.

I might add that i adore my 930's originality (even with US to Euro conversion going on) so the mod's would be not to radical.

[356911930]

I would do suspension mods first.

1. For the track I would get the stickiest I could find.
2. Adjustable front and rear sway bars. Possibly 22mm
3. Larger dia front/rear torsion bars. 21mm /28mm; 22mm/28mm; 22mm/29mm, 23mm/30mm or 23mm/31mm. Larger rear torsion bars, 30mm 31mm, help reduce rear end squat produce by larger HP engines.

You should talk with a local shop for additional suggestions.

Best of luck,

Rahl

[Miguel Antonett]

If you post pictures of the car you'll get lots more reaction here... BTW, Mandatory for new members.

Anyway, agree with Rahl, suspension is the first thing you should focus on to be able to seriously "play" with the car, that also includes alignment, height, brakes, wheels... and after that, improve the engine driveability/performance.

What year is your car, color, interior...? Did I say pictures?

[Tug68]

Pic's??????

[JFairman]

For the best handling for the least money spent put in RSR valved Bilstien inserts in the front struts and Bilstien sport shocks in the rear. Lower it a little below stock ride hight and thats it. Don't do anything else other than good tires but thats a no brainer.

The stock sway bars, rubber bushings and torsion bars are fine if you don't want to change much away from stock and spend a lot of money for a stiffer ride and I think thats what you said.

Just drive it and learn how to go fast and smooth.

[krasuskyp]

what year?

random thoughtlessness off top of mah feeble noggin:

oil cooling, brake cooling, intercooling...(hmmm, a trend there huh?)

ditch thermal reactors if applicable

consider muffler options to lower boost threshold

Ate or Motul brake fluid

better pads than OE Textars

btw, welcome - and agreed - pics (preferably live action track shotz)... or vote to BAN 8-)

ENJOY!!!

[DohertyCM]

Just took mine!!

23mm on the front...30mm on the rear... Orange Racing Pads on 996TT brakes

[Tom Oxner]

Cool pics DohertyCM. Is that MSR Cresson?

Tom

[DohertyCM]

Yes, this is MSR at Cresson Tx.

I see you are in Conway...Where do you guys go for a DE?

[Tom Oxner]

DohertyCM, we go to either Hallett, MSR Cresson, or Memphis International. My son and I have run a Spec Boxster for a season in PCA and NASA. Our first race was at MSR-Cresson.

Tom

[aschen]

I have alot of respect for you guys tracking your 930s. They must be a handfull, espescially stockish. I autocrossed mine twice and that was a bit frustrating. As much as I love the car, I dont find it very "tossable", the gear changes are tough to do quickly espescially difficult to get a heal toe, and lastly I am a bit too sympathetic with the car and rarely want to take it past about 5500 rpm. Oh yeah, I almost forgot about the lag. I still have the boat anchor stock hairdryer, so boost always hit when it was time to brake.

[aschen]

I think I have been a bit spoiled by modern cars at HPDE. The lotus is a dream to drive at the track and It still takes everything I have in terms of concentration and focus.

[JFairman]

Originally Posted by aschen

I have alot of respect for you guys tracking your 930s. They must be a handfull, espescially stockish. I autocrossed mine twice and that was a bit frustrating. As much as I love the car, I dont find it very "tossable", the gear changes are tough to do quickly espescially difficult to get a heal toe, and lastly I am a bit too sympathetic with the car and rarely want to take it past about 5500 rpm. Oh yeah, I almost forgot about the lag. I still have the boat anchor stock hairdryer, so boost always hit when it was time to brake.

If you adjust the brake pedal linkage pushrod behind the floorboard a little shorter so the brake pedal hight is lower and closer to the gas pedal hight it's easy to heel and toe downshift in these cars.

It's kind of like a turnbuckle but don't go too far with it or it as brake pedal feel will suffer and then it might go over center on the linkage and that would be bad.

A gas pedal with the wider bottom helps too but isn't needed.

I've posted this pic before and it shows my pedals after adjusting the brake pedal hight lower.
It's easy and satisfying to blip the throttle with my heel to match revs perfectly while double clutching in nuetral to spin up the gear sets and quickly downshiftng to a lower gear while braking with my toe going into a corner now.

In an old BMW 2002 you don't have to adjust the pedals to do that.. they're set up right from the factory.

...and my glove box door isn't warped.

[matt f]

JFairman,
Sweet car.
Would you mind describing what info each of your 6 additional gauges provides?
Did I miss any?
Thank you,

Matt
.

[jwasbury]

JFairman nailed it re: heel toe. You must adjust the brake pedal.

I'd also second krasusky that additional oil cooling is IMO mandatory if you track the 930. The factory fender cooler is damn near worthless in my experience. Frount mount oil cooler is the solution. If you don't mind 300 degree oil temps - then don't worry about it.

[jsveb]

Originally Posted by JFairman

...and my glove box door isn't warped.

Neither is mine nor do I have retro seat covers. They are nice and have the right smell of old durable leather and dye, only one small hole from the 30+ year old four point harness that has been rubbing against the aft part of the seat cushion.

Your car is super clean JF!

[OldSpool87]

The other route to go is adjustable throttle pedal. I went to adjust brake pedal linkage behind floor board and discovered what looked like red locktite on turnbuckle linkage. I went for the adjustable gas pedal and have been happy plus no worries about going over center line. Additionally, you'll find threshold braking much different on track (more BP movement) than street.

Just another option to look at. Oh yeah, and don't forget about homemade magnetic numbers for extra speed!

[JFairman]

"Would you mind describing what info each of your 6 additional gauges provides?
Did I miss any?"

VDO voltmeter is in the left footwell blower cover and a little stainless steel meat cooking thermometer I got at the grocery store in the left side AC duct so I can monitor how efficiant the AC is working and it pulls right out if I want. I've done a lot of work on the AC to be comfortable during Florida summers. I put heat shrink on the stem of it to make it thicker and help it stay in place in there.

In the center console I have a VDO head temp gauge and Innovate AFR gauge.
Above the console and under the knee pad I have a vacuum/boost gauge on the left and you on the right is a matching CIS control pressure gauge but it's behind the steering wheel in the picture. The rings around the bezals were silver and I taped off the lenses and sprayed the rings satin black.

Over in the right footwell blower cover is the original clock to the car. A NHS mechanical boost gauge is in the dash where the clock was.