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just put the LM back on.,
15.4-5 at cruise and 12.4 at idle.

i have the euro FD, lines and 009 injectors. no computers, no O2 sensor
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Old 03-11-2014, 03:54 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #41 (permalink)
Brando
 
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Simma dan nah

Hey guys why are my settings changing overnight?
Actually yesterday evening I went for a drive and it was way lean. So I adjusted the mix back to sane levels of 13-14 idle and then this morning everything stayed at 10.5-11 idle after warmup. So I readjusted the mix again to 13. Why?
Old 03-11-2014, 08:11 AM
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Brando
 
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I would guess vacuum leak but it will do it when I shut the car off and restart five minutes or less later. So engine still warm it will change. Odd.
Old 03-11-2014, 08:42 AM
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I feel your pain. I had exactly the same issue last year. Would be driving the car and it would go pig rich and then lean. For ever chasing your tail with adjustments and never getting any where.
I had my Fuel head rebuilt and this seemed to steady the AFR's down. When engine running with fuel pressure gauge connected the gauge would fluctuate by about 0.4 bar. i had to press on the mixture screw to stabilise the metering plate to stop the fluctuations.
The car is ready to come out of hibernation in the coming weeks so will see what happens.
I have set my BL WUR to the following pressures as it was running rich previously.
Cold start 1.8 Bar
Warm 3.9 Bar
Boost 3.05 Bar

My previous AFR's were Idle 13.8 AFR, Cruise 14.4 AFR and Boost 10.9 AFR
I want to see same Idle with cruise at 14.9-15 AFR and boost at 12 AFR max
Old 03-11-2014, 09:16 AM
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Brando
 
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Thanks for your input but actually my symtoms seem to be wur dependant.

Well lately I've noticed a whistle from the engine when I shut it off for a couple seconds. Knowing this is some air leak and I've had what I think is an odd irregularity I wanted to fix it. Rather than sit staring at the engine bay I decided to just think clearly about it. This is when I remembered that extra vacuum line that the new wur didn't use. Well I actually slid it onto the long nipple looking nodule on top of the new wur even though it's. it meant to have a vacuum line on it. I wasn't really thinking when I did it and tightened the clamp.
So this has had vaccum and probably boost I suspect. I believe it is access to the diaphragm inside. I sure hope it's not ripped!!
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:31 PM
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This one has it. Maybe it's ok.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:35 PM
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The vent on the top of the turbo WUR is definitely not supposed to see vacuum or boost, but is supposed to be left open to atmosphere so that the diaphragm moves as it should. That picture above is probably just a section of hose that was used as a vent line to some place outside/under the car, so that if the diaphragm ever ruptures, fuel will go outside of the engine bay rather than all over the top of the engine.

It will be interesting to see if your AFRs are more stable with that vented like it should be.

Oh and Brando, if your WUR's diaphragm was ripped you know it in about two seconds as fuel would pour out of the vent.

Last edited by Ronnie's.930; 03-12-2014 at 12:14 AM..
Old 03-11-2014, 11:46 PM
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Fixed the vacuum line and all is well there.
I'm still adjusting on the road as it were. Today I readjusted the cold pressure so that is right. And tried to get the boost pressure higher because of rich on boost conditions. Still not right. As low as 9.9/1 afr. I'm not making full power for obvious reasons. And still don't have optimal afr's but at least they're not dangerous. Now I go through gas more though. I leave a dark rich cloud on boost. Even still I killed a new xkr tonight. In Mexico of course.
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:33 PM
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Without reading the last 3 pages this problem looks to be fuel pressure/volume related. Only 3 things control that; pumps, head, regulator.
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:09 AM
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I have a BL wur which needed adjusting and my Chinese fuel pressure gauges don't make me feel confident.
It's all working out slowly as I don't have lots of time or a dyno.
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:00 AM
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Get some gages you trust, nothing can be resolved without valid readings.
Old 03-25-2014, 10:11 AM
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Ok so as of today, I have a nice tune with the bl wur.
Idle is 12.9
Cruise is 14.2-14.9
Full throttle is 10.9-11.5 depending
And most important to me because if the problems I had with slight throttle/load I'm in the 13-14's
My egt has risen slightly because if the cruise decrease in fuel mix and now see egt on cruise of 80-90mph of 1400 or thereabouts.
It's running really well, I noticed lately that the car is really easy to drive over the limit without straining at all. Not good but telling that the car is nuts on in its tune. Never hot, able to go whenever.
Other day I walked a new stingray corvette. Bummer for him eh?
Pretty happy about the way she runs.
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Turbo powa!
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Old 04-19-2014, 05:04 PM
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Really cool to see, Brando - and no JB Weld was needed?!
Old 04-19-2014, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930 View Post
Really cool to see, Brando - and no JB Weld was needed?!
Well actually.......
I need to repair the threads in the intake manifold that the wur mounts too.
Sooooooooooo you spoke too fast. I still don't know the method of repair but haven't ruled out jb weld
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Old 04-19-2014, 08:53 PM
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BTW, what vacume line do I tee into for the blow off valve for flames? When I tee into the diverter valve line it stalls. I've been wanting to shoot flames for a while now. Here's a picture of the extra diverter valve I'm going to use to blow off metered air.

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Old 04-19-2014, 09:01 PM
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Are you talking about threads on the studs that that wur slides onto, or the holes/bosses on the intake manifold that the stud plate bolts down to?

Can't help with the flames (other than flaming Paul every chance I get!!!).
Old 04-19-2014, 09:04 PM
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The holes/bosses that it mounts too.....
Wait, mine mounts to a location that has two holes and the wur mounts to that with two long bolts.
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Old 04-19-2014, 09:05 PM
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Maybe the 3lt wur mounting is different, but on the 3.3 a plate with studs on it bolts to the intake manifold and the wur goes on the studs. Here it is - Pelican Parts - European Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche • BMW • Mercedes • Volkswagen • Audi • Saab • Volvo • MINI

With that bracket, the wur sits left to right (boost signal nipple facing the throttle body) where as yours is facing front to back. I'm curious so am going to look at the 3lt PET.

Regardless, I would fix a stripped boss like that with a helicoil - have used them for similar fixes many times and they work great and are easier to get than timecerts. The holes likely have 6mm threads, so that is one of the most common helicoil kits - easy to find at most automotive stores (and also places such as Ace Hardware).

Last edited by Ronnie's.930; 04-19-2014 at 09:22 PM..
Old 04-19-2014, 09:14 PM
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Thanks. Thought of that too. Better All around.
Old 04-19-2014, 09:18 PM
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Yep, 3lt setup is different - no bracket. The PET drawing of the intake manifold is on page 35 if you want to take a lookie.

http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/en/E_911T_KATALOG.pdf

Last edited by Ronnie's.930; 04-19-2014 at 09:23 PM..
Old 04-19-2014, 09:21 PM
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