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Spark plug gap with NGK?.

Hi guys
Did a search and can't find an awnser.
Freshly rebuilt engine got NGK BP8eS , are these ok?
What is the preferred gap with stock ignition?
Thanks
Erick
Old 03-08-2014, 04:38 AM
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straight from the ngk site:

Q: Do I need to set the "gap" when installing a new set of plugs?

A: Maybe. A spark plug part number might fit hundreds of engines and, although the factory will typically set the gap to a pre-selected setting, this may not be the right gap for your particular engine. Insufficient spark plug gap can cause pre-ignition, detonation and even engine damage. Too much gap can result in a higher rate of misfires, loss of power, plug fouling and poor fuel economy. It is always best to check the gap against the manufacturer's specifications.

Another consideration that should be taken into account is the extent of any modifications that you may have made to the engine. As an example, when you raise compression or add forced induction (a turbo system, nitrous or supercharger kit) you must reduce the gap (about .004" for every 50 hp you add). However, when you add a high power ignition system (such as those offered by MSD, Crane, Nology) you can open the gap from .002-.005".

If you have any questions, please contact the NGK Sparkplugs Tech Staff here. The manufacturer of your vehicle, the company that produced the aftermarket products you've used and/or your mechanic are all additional sources of gapping information if you've modified your vehicle.
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Old 03-08-2014, 06:10 AM
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The BP8ES is pretty much the same as W3DPO, but with a larger, copper center electrode. For stock CDI you can use the same 0.6mm gap as the W3DPO. Why not use Bosch W3DPO's? The are pre-gapped, and have the small diameter platinum center electrode. You are in it for 10K now, another $60 isn't going to hurt! Ha, Ha, easy for me to say.

BP8ES W3DPO
Thread M14x1.25 M14x1.25
Tip Design Projected Projected
Center Electrode Copper Platinum
Resistor NO NO
Heat Range NGK 8 Bosch 3 (Colder than NGK 8)
Reach 19mm 19mm
Electrode dia 2.5mm 0.8mm

I prefer to stick with the Bosch platinum with smaller center electrode. More resistant to fouling.
Old 03-08-2014, 07:28 AM
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From what I read Ngk is the way to go
I guess I am wrong. I should by the Bosch ?
Old 03-08-2014, 08:07 AM
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I think you should stay away from the nickel plated copper, which is what the BP8ES is, in a turbo motor. NGK makes fine plugs, but all of their really good ones come as a resistor plug, which is not what you want with the stock CDI ignition.

Platinum has a very high melting point, so it can be sintered into the ceramic tip of the plug, leaving no gap between the center electrode and the ceramic. This allows the electrode to run cooler, but still above the self-cleaning temperature.

The smaller diameter electrode increases the energy in the gap. This is the most important point.

I know it sounds pedantic, but there it is.
Old 03-08-2014, 03:30 PM
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I'm (was) running with an NGK race plug (don't remember the number but could pry it from my memory banks if needed). Gapped to .040, no problem for my MSD ignition output. Worked just fine.
Personal opinion: W3DPO's are overated and way over priced. Just my opinion FWIW.
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:50 PM
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go with speedy's advice rather than some one that drives till their tires pop and doesn't insure their car...
Old 03-08-2014, 06:58 PM
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Probably B9EG. Very cold, and the tip does not sick out into the combustion chamber (non-projected):

B9EG W3DPO
Thread M14x1.25 M14x1.25
Tip Design Non-projected Projected
Center Electrode Nickel Platinum
Resistor NO NO
Heat Range NGK 9 Bosch 3 (Colder than NGK 8)
Reach 19mm 19mm
Electrode dia 2.5mm 0.8mm

Basically, you get what you pay for. All the cheap plugs are copper/nickel.
Old 03-08-2014, 07:07 PM
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FWIW, I've been using W4CS for the last 100K or so street miles and have had no issues what so ever. An old 962 (Brun and Kalagian) tech turned me on to them, as he runs them in his 930 as well.

tim
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Last edited by timc; 03-08-2014 at 07:52 PM..
Old 03-08-2014, 07:49 PM
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I've been using bosch W4CS silver plugs for the last 6 yerars. They work well and havn't fouled out on my car but silver plugs have a lower melting point than platinum plugs so they don't last long. They're made for racing where plugs get replaced every race.

Product description:
Bosch Silver Spark Plugs are specifically engineered to improve your performance, whether sport-driving and racing conditions or power sport application. These fine wire performance plugs are specifically engineered for colder racing applications, particularly those that run at full throttle (racing, water ski, and towing) and not for traditional automotive use (stop and go traffic) as they would quickly foul out. At the heart of these plugs is the silver enhanced center electrode that conducts electricity better than copper or nickel. These plugs are specifically engineered for high performance, not long life. As silver has a lower melting point than nickel, these plugs will need to be replaced more often depending on your application. For many racing applications this is not an issue as many racers are already replacing plugs after each race or even every run.

Amazon.com: Bosch W4CS Silver Spark Plug - Pack of 1: Automotive
Old 03-08-2014, 08:33 PM
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Bruce Anderson used to recommend the W4CS. It is an OK plug, but Silver can't compare with Platinum for durability, and it does not have a projected tip.

Here is what we have so far. Basically, you want to stay away from copper/nickel with multi-spark and stock CDI, as the center electrode erodes away faster than platinum, and the larger diameter takes away energy from the spark gap.

I strongly prefer the projected tip, as this reduces fouling, and I think it has a better idle. You can live without it, but why?

Old 03-09-2014, 08:02 AM
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Don't want to be cheap but have the plugs and plan on replacing them at every valve adjustment. Will the Ngk be ok for 15000 mi?
Old 03-09-2014, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Don't want to be cheap but have the plugs and plan on replacing them at every valve adjustment. Will the Ngk be ok for 15000 mi?
I did try the NGK's that you are considering briefly and caused uneven idle compared to the w4cs, meaning a bit more minimal misfiring that I have noticed with the BP8's as opposed to the W4CS's.

Last edited by timc; 03-10-2014 at 11:33 AM..
Old 03-09-2014, 03:17 PM
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Thanks, Never seen these so cheap, just ordered 12. May wait a bit before I try the WD3PO's....

tim
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Old 03-09-2014, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
go with speedy's advice rather than some one that drives till their tires pop and doesn't insure their car...
Jim, I must say that this comment has irked the living sh@t out of me since I read it several hours ago. There is no indication that this was meant in jest, and considering that you are not one to post playful jabs and such on here, I will assume that it was not meant to be funny. As much as I admire and respect your vast knowledge, experience and skills with regard to the workings of these machines, I find it strange that apparently you've still got some sort of irrational ax to grind over a lighthearted, humorous comment that Mark made, over two years ago, about the possibility of a spam-bot being you posting under an alias. Maybe I am mistaken, and Mark wronged you in some way that I am not privy to, but if not, wow, talk about being way out of line! And if it was actually meant in jest, I apologize for my rant.

Last edited by Ronnie's.930; 03-09-2014 at 08:27 PM..
Old 03-09-2014, 07:47 PM
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i wonder if anyone could actually tell the diference between the DPO and the CS in their car.
this might oughta be put in the "best oil" catagory of dont ask dont tell.

i have the NGK in right now and i am not sure i can tell any difference. as long as the heat range on the NGK was OK and the tip was not getting too hot, i thought maybe the protruding electrode might ignite a little better. (i had them so i thought i might try them)
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Old 03-10-2014, 04:01 AM
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