Can i lower my car myself?

[Pezho405]

In my garage with a jack and pretty much basic tools. Im not too sure how it should be done either? ive never done it (ive seen it done but wasnt paying attention because was working on another car) To a more respectable ride height. The front is way too high. Im not so concerend about the rear. will the heaviness of the steering change?

[DSPTurtle]

The front is simple. Assuming you have sufficient room on the adjusters you just basically turn them counter clockwise. Either 12 or 13mm bolt head.

[Pezho405]

Originally Posted by DSPTurtle

The front is simple. Assuming you have sufficient room on the adjusters you just basically turn them counter clockwise. Either 12 or 13mm bolt head.

So its just that one little bolt and thats it? there is no other one like the big one next to it?

seems simple enough will do it tomorrow.

Does the wheel need to be off the ground or anything before turning it?

Now how badly will my alignment mess up?

[DSPTurtle]

Going down in easy. Going up is a little harder. Don't touch the big bolt. Your toe will be less than perfect but depending on how far you lower it, you should be fine. If you pulled a t bar to lower it then you would definitely want an alignment.

[Pezho405]

Originally Posted by DSPTurtle

..If you pulled a t bar to lower it then you would definitely want an alignment.

Sorry, whats a t bar?

Thanks for the help!
i should have probably searched as well, just found this:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/101_Projects_Porsche_911/55-Lowering_the_911/55-Lowering_the_911.htm

[Jeff NJ]

I just finished lowering the front and rear of my 930 just over an inch - inch and a half or so. The wheel wells are now just a hair above the top of the tires compared to the 4x4 look that US cars are set at from the factory. Front was cake. Rear, not so much. I also replaced the spring arm bushings while I was in there. The rear torsion bars are a PITA to get out and adjust correctly because you have to put it all back together and take it for a quick spin to settle out the TB's and bushings to see if it is correct. Then you have to take it all back apart and adjust again. Rinse and repeat until you have it correct. I have gotten pretty good at it after about 4 cycles, LOL.
I am bringing it in for an alignment on Tuesday. There is no way that I can see to lower the rear and still have it in alignment since you have to remove many of the bolts that align the car. Also, unless you only lower the front a hair, get a bump steer kit from PP. I installed mine in about 30 minutes and it helps for sure. The angle of the tie rods will affect the toe, so in theory, if you install the bump steer kit to put the tie rods exactly where they were before the drop, the toe should be correct. I will see how far off it was next week.

I will post up pictures this weekend with the before/after.

If you have specific questions when doing it, post them up. I have done that and always get nearly instant, very helpful answers. This community rocks!

[PrimeMvr]

+1 on the bump steer kit. My fender height is 25 3/4, which isn't slammed by any means, but the bump steer was massive. The cheap rack spacer kit made a huge improvement. Not 100% gone like the advanced, weld-on kits will get you, but much more civilized.

[Pezho405]

Never mind about the tbat It clicked to me.

Will there be a very noticeable difference without having the bump steer kit?
I've read there may also be spacers on the shock towers with may have to be removed?

[Jeff NJ]

Well, how far are you lowering it? My fender height at the center of the wheel was 25.875" and it is now 24.5" and I did not remove the shock tower spacer. The bump steer kit definitely helped. I used the basic kit which is just a couple spacers to raise the steering rack and longer bolts. The tech article on this site was very helpful.

[Pezho405]

Sorry not sure about inches but maybe 2cm, I'll have to see tomorrow exactly.

[Jeff NJ]

An inch is 2.54cm, so I lowered mine about 3.5cm.

[Pezho405]

One last final question can I turn the wheel to have easier access to the bolt?

Sorry for sounding ignorant. Suspension stuff is just one of those things I haven't gotten to know well

[krasuskyp]

I lowered my fronts a bit - nothing super crazy but notably lower - and ran sans bump steer kit for a few months.

Deffff not ideal, but also def not as disastrous as it sounds.

I'm much happier after bump steer / corner balance / lowering tho, fersure.

Jeff... might you PM me your cell?

I'd like to pick your brain regarding t-bar / spring plate re-install... I'm about to put my adjustables back on and would like to run a few things past someone who's BTDT and is dumb enough to indulge me

[slow&rusty]

You have to pull the rear torsion bars and re-index them to get a nice even ride height, it is straight forward and hopefully your rear bars come out easily. Make sure you mark them and turn each one the exact amount, there are lots of threads on how to do this with great info.

[Pezho405]

Ok i did it! the specs from wheel rim to top of fender were:
Front of car
Left 57.5cm 58.5cm Right
57cm 57cm

New specs:
55.5cm 55.5cm
57cm 57cm

i didnt touch the rear.

Result, much better than it was:


JUST barely enough to clear my driveway:


This was the Before:



The bump steer... i guess i feel something now but it was almost the same before. Also i kinda like it cause you feel more of the road?

[Jeff NJ]

So I finally got a minute while it was light out to take a couple pics of the car now that it is lowered. About 1.375 inches lower all around. Bringing it in Monday for new tires (2001 and 2005 date codes on the current tires), getting Bridgestone Potenze RE-11's in stock sizes. Also adjusting the fuel mixture so I actually pass inspection and an alignment all around.




Here is the view from wheel height of the gap between the wheels and the fenders (front first then rear):

[Car-Crazed]

Jeff At 24.5" front, Any Rubbing Issues On Front Fenders?

[Jeff NJ]

Originally Posted by Car-Crazed

Jeff At 24.5" front, Any Rubbing Issues On Front Fenders?

I've only got a few miles on it since lowered, because I don't want to get a no-inspection ticket, but since the fender is actually above the wheel and since the part of the tire that actually would contact the fender is further away (as shown in the closeup pics), imagine the wheel is a clock - 10:30 and 1:30 would be where it would hit the fender, I believe, so unless I turn hard at speed, I don't think I'll have an issue, and even then, not so sure. It really isn't much lower than ROW specs, I think...

[Groovie Ghoulie]

My fronts are the same as yours, But I put bigger T-Bars and Von shocks in mine. No issues rubbing on the fronts. The rears were a different story. After the Pain of re-indexing the rears I just today installed the ER Adjustable spring plates. I brought the backs up to right around 25. The rears were at 24, and it was rubbing inside the tops of the flares bad under hard acceleration. Also be aware that at 24 rear, my camber was -2.5 to keep the toe in spec. It drove me nuts using only 80% of my tread on normal street driving. Hopefully I can get it to -1.5 or less now.

Here is the 24.5 / 24 look. no new pics of it at 25 rear (yet). But after the new alignment, I plan on getting spacers out back to fill up the gaps a little more.

[Pezho405]

Originally Posted by Jeff NJ

So I finally got a minute while it was light out to take a couple pics of the car now that it is lowered. About 1.375 inches lower all around. Bringing it in Monday for new tires (2001 and 2005 date codes on the current tires), getting Bridgestone Potenze RE-11's in stock sizes. Also adjusting the fuel mixture so I actually pass inspection and an alignment all around.

Do we have the same coour?
Slate blue metallic?