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Anyone install rear spring plate bushings?

My car needs new rear spring plate bushings. Was going to do this and seems not too bad but the book says that you shouldn't replace the OEM ones unless you have to as they are not as good aftermarket. Not sure why this is the case if the part wears out and you get OEM parts.....

But I also have not seen any write-ups on it either so am I missing something here?
Old 03-31-2014, 08:06 AM
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I just replaced mine while I was re-indexing the TB's to lower the car. PITA to cut, scrape, sand off, but I was able to replace each side in a couple hours. I got the Neatrix rubber replacements from our host since I am not tracking the car and don't really need stiffer. I also read that they aren't as good, but I don't hear any squeaks, and since I haven't pushed the car at all since replacing, I can't even tell that they were replaced, so I am not sure where that criticism comes from.
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:22 AM
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I've burned, cut, and wire brushed the collapsed rubber bushings off of them to put on new ones.
I have Weltmiester "way away" adjustable springplates with Elephant Racing polybronze bushings on mine and they work real nice. They have grease fittings that should be greased from time to time.
For a street car the rubber ones are fine and have no maintenance but if you like quicker steering response upgrades are nice.
Old 03-31-2014, 08:24 AM
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Did you just use sandpaper to get the leftover crap off or you needed a wire wheel or something else? Just don't know how durable everything is and don't want damage any parts.
Old 03-31-2014, 08:25 AM
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I did it a long time ago and I probably used some fine sandpaper while cleaning the last of it off. It's steel, you're not going to hurt it. Sandpaper will remove the cad plating on it making it more vulnerable to rust down the road but what are ya gonna do..

The worst part was the obnoxious fumes while burning the rubber off. Do it outdoors and stay upwind.
Old 03-31-2014, 08:32 AM
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These cars are such fighters. I mean no matter how big or small the job, there is always SOMETHING that complicates it!
Old 03-31-2014, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
I did it a long time ago and I probably used some fine sandpaper while cleaning the last of it off. It's steel, you're not going to hurt it. Sandpaper will remove the cad plating on it making it more vulnerable to rust down the road but what are ya gonna do..

The worst part was the obnoxious fumes while burning the rubber off. Do it outdoors and stay upwind.
Second this, try to burn them off with a torch and you might get them hot enuff that they slide off with a pry bar or screwdriver.

Once they are gone you can wirebrush the surface clean with a brass wirebrush in a hand drill. Then if you want to stop corrosion spray the surface with a coat of enamel paint before slipping on the new bushings.

I am using the elephant racing polybronze bushings here and the ride is fine on the street and I did not notice any undue harshness when going from the OEM rubber bushings. The suspesnion travels way more easily and precise with the polybronze set up but honestly driving it on the street is not torture either.

Fred
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:42 AM
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One last thing. When everything is re-assembled are there any suspension issues regarding alignment and ride height? There are a few adjustments back there and want to make sure it all goes back to those settings.
Old 03-31-2014, 08:48 AM
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I used the included removal tool, a razor knife, a wire brush and sandpaper to get it cleaned off. The rubber bushings are VERY tight going back on and into the TB tubes, so getting all the old material off is very important. Lots of silicone lube helped too.
One thing I learned the hard way was that the cover plate will not rotate with new bushings like the old one did, so pressing it on the new bushing on the spring plate while it is off the car, before mounting it into the TB tubes is difficult because it has to be positioned just right, but I didn't see any way to get the cover on while under the car. It took a couple of attempts to get it just right so I could mount it up and get the 4 bolts in without having to rotate the cover. Then, driving in the 4 bolts to insert the spring plate into the bushing mounted in the TB tube is possible.

Even if you mark every bolt and put the TB's back in exactly the same, it will still probably change your alignment since the spring plate will be centered into the TB tube better. My car is at Powertech right now being aligned.
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:52 AM
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The instructions from our host states that you use a super glue that cures in 5 seconds. So how do you get this on in 5 seconds considering how tight the new bushings are, and how are you using silicon lube to get them on if you need to glue them?

I gotta get all my ducks in a row before I do this.
Old 03-31-2014, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwtmx View Post
The instructions from our host states that you use a super glue that cures in 5 seconds. So how do you get this on in 5 seconds considering how tight the new bushings are, and how are you using silicon lube to get them on if you need to glue them?

I gotta get all my ducks in a row before I do this.
There was NO WAY it was possible to glue them because of how long it took to get the bushings on the outer spring plate and the spring plate back into the TB tubes. Plus, there was no glue in the package and I didn't see it mentioned in their very basic directions. I don't see why it would have to be glued anyway, since the only thing it could possibly stop is rotation, which shouldn't matter(?). Maybe others with more experience than me will chime in with a different opinion, but that is what I encountered.
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:21 AM
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I just did this last week and doubted the superglue for the same reasons listed. However, the superglue acted as a lubricant and allowed the bushings to slide on REALLY easily....for 5 seconds. Then you are SOL.
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Old 03-31-2014, 12:50 PM
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Ok. Last question. Once I get all this off I am going to re-plate the cover but I wanted to see what pieces are cadmium plated so I know what to send out. Is the spring plate just painted black or is it cadmium as well?
Old 04-01-2014, 07:56 AM
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I think they're originally gold cadmium plated but it doesn't last long like that and turns corroded grey and dirty if the car's driven in rain, etc.
The adjustable sway away replacements are gold cad too.
Old 04-01-2014, 08:07 AM
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