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Need Advise Grinding Noise From Rear

I took my car on the first ride of the season today after a long winter nap and of course something went wrong. As I slowed down to about 10 MPH I heard a grinding noise coming from the rear of the car. The noise got progressively worse as I applied the brake. I limped home and thought either the pads were stuck or shot or maybe something came loose in the e brake set up. Took both sides apart removed the rotors and found nothing all is normal and the pads are like new.
The only thing I see underneath is the right side CV boot has a huge hole in it and I would imagine all of the grease is gone. Would this cause a grinding noise? I always thought CV joints clicked when they went bad. Could that be the problem or can anyone else think of what else would cause this?
Thanks for any advise
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Old 04-06-2014, 07:14 PM
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Rear wheel bearings... Not a fun job...
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Old 04-06-2014, 07:18 PM
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That is what I figured thanks
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Old 04-06-2014, 07:46 PM
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Sounds like bearings, as mentioned above.

I had mine replaced last year, as well as the axles. I would recommend having a professional do this one as getting the bearings out does not look like an easy job.
Old 04-07-2014, 06:23 AM
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Well you know you're into it for at least a CV joint. I'd suggest you fix that and see if it cures your noise?
Wheel bearing job is doable but removing the arms and R&R-ing everything related is not a small task. Search here for plenty of threads on that beast of job.
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Old 04-07-2014, 06:27 AM
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Thanks guys
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:38 AM
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rear bearings are easy, Takes an afternoon . just a bunch of unbolting and re bolting

Local shops here quoted crazy money

remember the factory service manual says to heat the trailing arm

I bought this tool :

Bearing Tool

I may sell it

stefan
Old 04-07-2014, 08:50 AM
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One other possibility could be your emergency brake shoes. I've never been into mine so can't speak with any authority, but aren't they a completely separate mechanical system from the hydraulic calipers?
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Old 04-07-2014, 08:56 AM
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I agree with Mark, the rear wheel bearing is a slow progressive failure not an overnight phenomenon.
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Old 04-07-2014, 09:13 AM
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Does the noise stop or change if you're moving and apply the ebrake? Check your ebrake shoes (yes independent from the calipers) and your regular pads as well. Next inject grease into the boot/cv joint and see if the grinding stops or slows, if so there's your likely answer. You can learn a lot by putting the wheel up and giving it a couple turns.
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Last edited by slyguy; 04-07-2014 at 01:23 PM..
Old 04-07-2014, 01:20 PM
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He said he took apart to check the ebrake and all was normal, so,aside from cv, next likely culprit is the bearing... Especially if the car was sitting for winter? When one goes bad, one day you happen notice it, then it gets progressively worse... Not sure you could say that it's not an overnight phenom...
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Old 04-07-2014, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infraredcalvin View Post
He said he took apart to check the ebrake and all was normal, so,aside from cv, next likely culprit is the bearing... Especially if the car was sitting for winter? When one goes bad, one day you happen notice it, then it gets progressively worse... Not sure you could say that it's not an overnight phenom...
Ahhh....so he did! I missed the "e".... Thanks.
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Old 04-07-2014, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark houghton View Post
One other possibility could be your emergency brake shoes. I've never been into mine so can't speak with any authority, but aren't they a completely separate mechanical system from the hydraulic calipers?
Took both sides off and they were both fine
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Old 04-07-2014, 05:16 PM
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Thanks for all of the help. I have been reading the threads on the bearings and I think with the proper tools it should not be an extremely hard job. I called my local shop and he said he can't get to it for a couple of weeks. I think I might tackle the job myself and replace both sides as well as the fronts. I figure that they are all 30 years old so if I replace all I am good for another 30 years.
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Old 04-07-2014, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_Hat View Post
rear bearings are easy, Takes an afternoon . just a bunch of unbolting and re bolting

Local shops here quoted crazy money

remember the factory service manual says to heat the trailing arm

I bought this tool :

Bearing Tool

I may sell it

stefan
Sent you a PM
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Old 04-07-2014, 05:21 PM
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Take a look at post 21 (top of page), I used this to do mine... Cost me 15-20 bucks, used it on both sides. First one takes a while just to figure it out, then the 2nd goes much faster.

Rear Wheel Bearing Removal
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:39 PM
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Update. Pulled the left rear side apart and the inner wheel bearing is shot so ordered both sides as well as the fronts. I figure I will change all while I have the car apart rather than hope that another bearing does not let loose when I am somewhere far away.
Thanks again for all of the help as usual the best advise anywhere.
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Old 04-09-2014, 11:12 AM
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Got the car all apart removed the axle and spindle. Replaced the outer race. Removed the inner bearing and race. Now for the issue I am installing the new inner bearing and I cannot remember which way the race came out. I am not sure if the race goers in with the bearing facing the outside of the car or goes in with the bearing facing the seal and the transmission. Does anyone know for sure which way the inner bearing faces?
Thanks
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:37 AM
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