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16Volt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Seattle, WA
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Power seat - wiring questions

86 930 w/power and heated sport seats

When I got my car the rear up/dwn adjustment was flakey but then stopped completely. I got only a click and buzz when pushing the button. In a burst of over confidence I attempted to remove the switch to clean and re-install. As with most of my project this turned from clean and re-install to remove and break completely. I pulled the fuse and decided to tackle it another day.

I bought a new seat switch and a few days ago set about pulling the seat to replace the one I mangled. I managed to get all the bolts out even though someone had previously nearly stripped the heads. Does pelican sell replacements?

IMG_6144

Time to buy a real set of allen sockets as I had to break out the "cheapass screw driver thingy" again.

Once free there was of course evidence of a prior break-in given the amount of broken glass under the seat.

IMG_6142



I assume this is why the car has the stupid car alarm and new stereo hacked in by Car Toys. I also found this plastic fastener, any ideas where its home is:

IMG_6146
IMG_6145

So the switch appears to pop into its bracket from the outside of the seat, is that correct?

IMG_6139

Wiring wise it has to female spade connectors which seem to run to the motor itself then it has two male plugs.

Do they just press into this big connector?
IMG_6141

I ran out of daylight and had to re-install everything but I would like to get this all taken care of this weekend while installing the PLX modules (anyone have a good idea for sourcing switched 12v under the seat for these?) so as to be totally done with removing the seats for the foreseeable future.
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:06 AM
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are you still using the O2 sensor
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Old 04-08-2014, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T77911S View Post
are you still using the O2 sensor
No, the factory o2 sensor (which is currently unplugged) is not being used. I am putting the WB sensor in its bung.
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- 2006 Infiniti M45 Sport
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Old 04-08-2014, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16Volt View Post
No, the factory o2 sensor (which is currently unplugged) is not being used. I am putting the WB sensor in its bung.
Some mixed opinions about using that location for a WB O2 sensor...do a search for more info. Get's pretty hot there, supposedly hard on sensor life. A good/proper heat sink would probably be mandatory in that location. Technically you should be downstream from the turbo as far as you can get.

Sorry for the hijack....
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Old 04-08-2014, 10:57 AM
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Yeah, O2 placement options are about nil with the B&B headers (3 inches total to work with before the turbo).

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- 2006 Infiniti M45 Sport
https://medium.com/@crashingdoor
Old 04-08-2014, 11:31 AM
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Garage
You sure are working in some strange yellow light. Look up, you might see a vortex about to drop down.

Yes that switch does pop in, best to push from behind or you might do some damage.
Picture to show.




As far as power, yes they slide in from behind. This might help.



But rather than buy a new switch, there is a common issue with the current one. The contacts points are very small and just need a little cleaning. It's really an ingenious switch inside (read overly complicated). This is a four way switch but mechanism is the same, the red circle is where contact is made-just clean that up and then reassemble. Test with an ohmmeter before reinstallation and you'll be good for another 30 years or so.




Old 04-08-2014, 12:41 PM
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Perfect, thats what I was looking for.

Unfortunately I already picked up a new switch since the old one puked all the balls and springs out over my garage floor. Oh well.
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- 86 Porsche 930 - Mr.Hyde
- 86 BMW 635CSi - Dr.Jeykell
- 2006 Infiniti M45 Sport
https://medium.com/@crashingdoor
Old 04-09-2014, 06:52 AM
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