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an update while waiting for the big brown truck

Paul suggested I post an update on my motor project so I took some pics while I'm waiting for UPS to deliver my new aluminum engine cooling fan. UPS.com says it's out for delivery.

Then hopefully my aluminum injector blocks will be back from California soon so I can put the intake and CIS back on.
Tomorrow with the fan on I can put the rear motor mount stuff back on, raise it up, and put on the headers, muffler and wastegate.

I hope I'm not forgetting anything... havn't seen any wrist pin circlips sitting around so i think i'm ok...



Old 04-18-2014, 01:52 PM
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Looks great
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Old 04-18-2014, 01:59 PM
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Let us know how you like the replacement fan. This from the company on ebay selling them?
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Old 04-18-2014, 02:05 PM
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Fan looks good. It's a semi rough sand cast finish and the center steel part is nicely machined and gold cad plated.
I'd like to tape off the center part and sand and polish it but I'm sure that would void the 1 year warranty on it so I'll just install it as is for now.

It's made by a company called European Parts Soloution. Comes in a nice sealed box and says made in USA.
I called Vertex directly and they sold it to me at their Ebay price.
Old 04-18-2014, 04:46 PM
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Looks good! Did you clear coat the fan shroud? Philip
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Old 04-18-2014, 05:18 PM
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It was pretty funky looking so I sanded the shroud and spray painted it with a puff can of "Ford Red" engine enamel I got at autozone. Puff can engine enamel resists gasoline spilled on it and tolerates temps up to 500 degrees.

I was going on memory and the color of the plastic caps on the spray cans. They had a can of "Chevy red" next to it that was more of a red red while this Ford red had a more orange red to it.
I think it's pretty close but don't have a clean unsanded shroud to compare it to.
Old 04-18-2014, 05:31 PM
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One of my fears too was to find a circlip! I must have checked 100 times making sure they were in and fully seated!
Old 04-18-2014, 05:44 PM
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That is awesomely, concourtasticly, nonpowdercoatedly nice.
Old 04-18-2014, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tippy View Post
One of my fears too was to find a circlip! I must have checked 100 times making sure they were in and fully seated!
I remember putting them in. I had a bunch of aluminum foil over the spigots in case one flew in that direction and I installed them sitting next to it on the driveway under wheel wells.
I did 3, 2, and 1 on one side and then 6, 5, and 4 on the other side. The pistons were in the jugs sticking out the bottom with the circlips already in on the side facing the flywheel so I could slide the jug on the studs and position the rod in the piston, slide the wrist pin through and install the circlip on the side facing the back of the car.
Doing all this with the motor in the car that seemed the best way to me. I stopped and snapped some pics while doing it and posted them a couple few weeks ago.

I'm having fun doing it all and i'm getting satisfaction from it.. I hope it runs good. Tomorrow if it doesn't rain I'll put the fan on, the rear motor mount yoke and crossbar on and raise the motor up and bolt it in place and then the headers, turbo, muffler, and wastegate go back on.

After that I hope my aluminum injector blocks show up so I can continue putting it back together.
Old 04-18-2014, 06:24 PM
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Great update Jim, you're doing a really awesome job there.

I'm gonna be pissed as hell if you finish before I do tho!
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Old 04-19-2014, 06:03 AM
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Thanks Paul, I hope the weather and everything is good up in Hershey. Just out of curiosity I'll be curious if you see any engine fans there. Other than the EPS aluminum ones you can buy easily now the original ones are hard to find.

It's raining here this morning and I'm doing all this outside in the driveway under a tent like canopy on days the wind isn't blowing hard. wind could blow fine dirt into an open motor so I don't risk that.
If it gets nice later today all the stuff on the bottom of the motor goes on next. Then the AC compressor and distributor etc.
All that could go on in a day I think.

After that I have to wait for my injector blocks to return so I can continue on the top of the motor and put oil in it and spin it on the starter motor with no spark plugs in it till I get oil pressure... Hopefully early next week
Old 04-19-2014, 06:22 AM
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Looks good, definitely a candidate for a rennline stainless alternator strap
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Old 04-19-2014, 06:45 AM
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Quote:

Quote de Tippy



One of my fears too was to find a circlip! I must have checked 100 times making sure they were in and fully seated!

I remember putting them in. I had a bunch of aluminum foil over the spigots in case one flew in that direction and I installed them sitting next to it on the driveway under wheel wells.

I did 3, 2, and 1 on one side and then 6, 5, and 4 on the other side. The pistons were in the jugs sticking out the bottom with the circlips already in on the side facing the flywheel so I could slide the jug on the studs and position the rod in the piston, slide the wrist pin through and install the circlip on the side facing the back of the car.

Doing all this with the motor in the car that seemed the best way to me. I stopped and snapped some pics while doing it and posted them a couple few weeks ago.



I'm having fun doing it all and i'm getting satisfaction from it.. I hope it runs good. Tomorrow if it doesn't rain I'll put the fan on, the rear motor mount yoke and crossbar on and raise the motor up and bolt it in place and then the headers, turbo, muffler, and wastegate go back on.



After that I hope my aluminum injector blocks show up so I can continue putting it back together.
GL, hope all goes well!
Old 04-19-2014, 07:26 AM
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Having just finished two engines on a stand in a warm garage, I'm big time impressed watching how you work. Nice job.
Old 04-19-2014, 09:01 AM
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Hey Jim, it would be interesting to call or email Vertex and ask them if polishing the fan would void the warranty . . . I had mine powdercoated right after I got it, but the warranty question didn't cross my mind (too dumb, I guess - I know Paul would agree! ).
Old 04-19-2014, 10:10 AM
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Yeah I could call them, that's fastest. At the same time sanding and polishing it removes metal and that would affect the balance. There's no balancing holes on the back side but there are continuous machine marks around the inner circumfrence. I can only guess thats from balancing it but it could just be to remove any left over casting flash.

The fan spins a lot faster than the crankshaft so I'd hate to throw it out of balance trying to make it look prettier.
Old 04-19-2014, 10:24 AM
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looks good.

what did you paint you engine shroud with?

what the deal with the injector blocks? you getting new ones? i am waiting on a set from turbokraft. hope to get them soon so i can drive the 930 to pick up my daughter from college.
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Old 04-21-2014, 03:26 AM
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What's wrong with the existing injector blocks? Why are all the cool kids getting aluminum?
And will you put the gaskets back on dry for those or use something?

Thanks!
Old 04-21-2014, 05:21 AM
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answers to above posts

I have aftermarket aluminum CIS injector blocks with 40mm holes in them for increased engine performance from around 3500rpm on up while using 964 cams, modified higher flowing CIS Flowtech aluminum fuel head, WMI injection, K27 7006 turbo, B&B headers, and gutted B&B muffler with single left side outlet and tailpipe and 3" electric butterfly to open a second 3" outlet and turned down tail pipe behind the valance on the right side.
I've ported the fully rebuilt cylinder head intake ports that are on the motor now to 40mm to match up with them a year ago and then the 6 holes in the pancake manifold to 40mm about a month ago.
I spent alot of time doing all that with a die grinder, carbide burs, and approx 80 grit sanding cones on arbors made for porting to make the holes smooth and blended nice.

The injector blocks were made to be installed without heat insulators so they are around 9 to 10mm too tall if you put heat insulators and two more gaskets between them and the cylinder heads. They are currently at Turbokraft in California and they are going to machine somewhere around 9mm off the bottoms of them so I can install the insulator blocks I have under the injector blocks without raising the intake manifold up higher than it should be.

After sanding the shroud smooth I puff can painted it with VHT SP155 Chrysler Red high temperature engine enamel. Says it's good up to 550*
I thought it was Ford red before, but I just went and got the can and it's Chrysler red.
Anyway, I sprayed on a light tack coat, let that dry for 5 minutes and then two wet coats over that about 10 minutes apart and let it dry for 2 weeks out in the sun during the day before installing it. That kind of paint takes a good week or two to fully cure and harden.

I like to use a real thin coat of hylomar non hardening gasket sealer on intake gaskets. Just gives me more confidence they won't leak under vacuum or boost. A very thin layer of sealant so it doesn't squeeze out when the manifold is torqued down. You can always remove and reuse the gaskets by putting on another thin layer of hylomar that way.
You can install intake gaskets dry and they should work fine. If I don't use hylomar on them I would use general purpose wheel bearing grease on them so they don't stick and tear apart if it's ever taken a part in the future.

Last edited by JFairman; 04-21-2014 at 08:19 AM.. Reason: spelling...
Old 04-21-2014, 08:15 AM
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how dare you put anything chrysler on a 930. dont you know that will slow it down, make it more unreliable and less valuable! just kidding.
i am right there where you are so i may pull shroud and paint it. i powder coated everything last time i had it this far but i did not pull the shroud.

i am close to your setup. same turbo, not sure about headers, borla muffer, euro fuel head, lines and 009 injectors. i want SC cams but i have spent too much $$ on it lately. oh, RUF IC.

just noticed the bricks. thats gotta suck using a floor jack.

thanks for the gasket tip. mine has been underpowered due to intake leaks i think it will be a HP boost when i get the new blocks.

check the surface of you intake flanges. i put 4 sheets of 320 on a large sheet of glass and flattened them out. they werer so bad. the new plastic injector blocks were so mangled and warped it was not even funny. i also tried to flatten the surface where the bolts go. i am looking for larger washers to better distribute the load on the intake.

did you have any issues with no heat insulators under the injector blocks(IB)? someone told me you really dont need them.
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86 930 42kmiles [__] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD
88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD
05 BMW 330CI 130K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
08 VOLVO V70 190K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
90 B2200[__] RUNNING:[] NOT RUNNING:__2000 MER E320 WAGON [] WRECKED:[]RUNNING:
Old 04-21-2014, 09:46 AM
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