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Annoying dum crap stupid pooftie car

Im going to have a Breakdown
Im nearly over this everything was perfect until i started making changes for so called better reliability and performance,

I hate to admit it but My car Ran best when it was bone stock.

Been trying to make it how it was but i have this stUPID problem and ive looked for answers on the sticky and cant find my problem ive searched but there are no sereach answers for (Dum) stupid problem so i need to post it here i hope someone has had the same issue and has the fix for this issue ,

My Question is this and please if you answer stick to the question i get confused easily.

Overall description of car

Car is 77 930 euro 3.0 no ic model

CHANGES IVE MADE

Ignition system was 8 pin CDI
Now
msd ignition
tach adapter
Fuel pumps fuses are individually fused

WG is a Tial 46mm
Turbo has no play either way and spins smoothly but slowly when i spin the vane

Exhaust has Dual out Monty Muffler
Headers are stock Euro
Intercooler is from a 1985 930



There is added also

3.3 inlet manifold
3.3 Bov assembly
Intercooler from 3.3


Normal Running symptoms

Starts first time instantly
No battery drain
Power not the best drives like a normally aspirated car

I can hear the turbo spooling up but not findint its way to the wheels and its been this way for a while

Small exhaust leak where they join i removed this to install air plugs last month there is a popping there but not a big leak-will address soon


Im thinking yesterday ive found the last of my vacuum leaks as when i screwed up tight the hose on the turbo (it was rotating in my hand was so loose) im thinking great ill have my power back

I drive for a bit go to the petrol station and put petrol in...she is sluggish ,, less and less power,

IT dies on me, (i still have electrical power) but the revs drop and drop so low then die

I try starting it sounds like theres no fuel but there is, i can smell it.. so im thinking no spark but when i depress the plate on fuel head and turn her over it fires up , but when i step on the gas she dies,

So i got my stilsens and used it to depress the fuel head so i can run it but i had to drive home at idle speed because if i stepped on it whatsoever it will die....

So i drove home idling at 900rpm all the way in each gear

Ive checked this below because im looking for something that can happen during the course of a trip

vacuum hoses all good
fuel pumps good they are both pumping strongly
spark plug wires checked for seating

my seat is in upright position and correct position

Everything was running but now only runs at idle speed

Sometime when i depress fuel plate she will let me Rev and run strongly (IN NEUTRAL) but when i go to drive it it is back to idle speed

Does anyone know anyone have same thing happen?

I dont want to say what i think as i want a fresh approach to this problem maybe something ive not thought of..

Im hoping it is something that i can fix without paying for parts
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Last row 1977 3.0 930 260hp built, still reassembling
Row 1998 996 MK1 3.4 296hp new daily driver
Old 07-11-2014, 09:07 PM
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Question for you: what are your AFRs: idle, cruising, and when trying to accel.?
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Old 07-11-2014, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsveb View Post
Question for you: what are your AFRs: idle, cruising, and when trying to accel.?
Good Question

Unable to supply that information i dont have meter at present
BUT
I can tell you that in my Fuel Head where the air/fuel allen nut adjustment is there is no NUT to adjust there is only a hole its been like that for a while..
If anyone can give me info on what screw size needs to go into that hole or post a pic? maybe i can find a similar size one that fits so i can add more fuel to the mix, id rather give it too much than have too little

When i tightened up the hose on the turbo yesterday then the idle dropped so i increased it on the TB, then as a matter of course i went back to factory settings on the dizzy beforehand i had it at about 15 degrees btdc, now it is on the mark. (Z1) it started and drove with these settings on the way to the station and halfway back when she died.
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Old 07-11-2014, 10:51 PM
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Don't ever srew on the fuelhead until you found your problem!!!! If the car was running before, then there is no need for adjustment to get the car running well.
If I'm loosing up my IC then I'll get the same problem. Looks like there is no response from the metering plate when you press the gas. When the metering plate moves free then there is only one possibility why its not going down. that means that there is no suction on the metering plate or ot enough. so when you crank your engine pistons and valve's creating a sort of vacuum. that amount of suction is needed to pull the metering plate down. so if there is any opening or leak between number 2 and number 8 then this would prevent that the metering plate will go down, so no fuel or not enough for the amount of air going in to the cylinders to run well or not running at all.





This picture is from a 3 liter and no IC but it helps I hope.

Last edited by klefroid; 07-12-2014 at 12:17 AM..
Old 07-11-2014, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klefroid View Post
Don't ever srew on the fuelhead until you found your problem!!!! If the car was running before, then there is no need for adjustment to get the car running well.
If I'm loosing up my IC then I'll get the same problem. Looks like there is no response from the metering plate when you press the gas. When the metering plate moves free then there is only one possibility why its not going down. that means that there is no suction on the metering plate or ot enough. so when you crank your engine pistons and valve's creating a sort of vacuum. that amount of suction is needed to pull the metering plate down. so if there is any opening or leak between number 2 and number 8 then this would prevent that the metering plate will go down, so no fuel or not enough for the amount of air going in to the cylinders to run well or not running at all.





This picture is from a 3 liter and no IC but it helps I hope.
Good pic i hope thats the problem ill suss it out tomorrow, i fear that there might be something else as ive sorted the leaks , (well i hope i havent) because this would be an easy fix in comparism..

there is one spot on the manifold that i bought from a pelican here the metal dual pipe coming from manifold was rotating in its base is the only suspect area i have as i repaired it, but still wouldnt explain the no throttle driving,,

Even if i took IC off and left it all open to air it shouldnt cause the problem i have
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Last edited by Robbbyg; 07-12-2014 at 12:33 AM..
Old 07-12-2014, 12:30 AM
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Sounds like a size able air leak in the system as stated above. Double check everything.
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Old 07-12-2014, 01:17 AM
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+1 on checking afrs. Next get rid of that Monty got to see one firsthand. Huge restriction.stock one would be better IMO
Old 07-12-2014, 03:21 AM
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Robby, I once had a fuel relay work loose up in the trunk when the fuse panel cover fell off and must have tugged one of them loose. The symptoms were something like yours- it ran but horribly and wouldn't take much gas pedal. That remains the easiest fix I've done to this car!

Checking CIS fuel pressures and AFR (if you have wideband) are simply mandatory when you're facing driveability issues with these cars. Without them it's like working on the car with your eyes closed. It can be done, but...
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Old 07-12-2014, 06:16 AM
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Did I get this right that you have a tial wastgate and a blow off valve on the intake side? Maybe you are losing all boost.

If your car is a 77, you have a boost gauge (in accurate but still an indicator). Do you ever get boost?

It sounds like your car is going full rich off idle. The mixture adjustment screw is what sets this and my guess is that this is your problem.
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Old 07-12-2014, 06:23 AM
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This is very true.
[QUOTE=Checking CIS fuel pressures and AFR (if you have wideband) are simply mandatory when you're facing driveability issues with these cars. Without them it's like working on the car with your eyes closed. It can be done, but...[/QUOTE]
Old 07-12-2014, 09:00 AM
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If your sure that there is no leak (a tiny leak would not cause this problem)
Then you need to go over all the stuff you did.
Are you sure your fuel pumps are running?
Are you sure that you did not swap the positive with the negative on one of the fuel pumps?
I can never believe that you have to adjust the mixture adjustment screw.
If it's going to rich then there is another problem. If you mess with the mixture without knowing your afr then you just @ another problem!!!!! it was good before mods so don't do it.
It would be good to have an afr gauge. this is something you need before you do mods on these cars. I don't know nothing about msd ignition, how did you check your advance timing?

+1 on gsxrken and JFairman

Last edited by klefroid; 07-12-2014 at 09:16 AM..
Old 07-12-2014, 09:01 AM
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Robert, buy this AFR gauge that is being sold here used, i have the same one and consider it needed and makes diagnosis much much easier, fun even. I use it to tune WUR's in my car just for fun, enjoy life a little, JMHO



FS: Daytona-Sensor Wego 4
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Old 07-12-2014, 10:28 AM
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Go for it. I've talked to Rey and he's a good guy.
Old 07-12-2014, 10:42 AM
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Not sure if anyone has mentioned this, but when was the last time you did the fuel filter. Check for:
fuel pressure
Boost

Then go deeper if needed. It's hard to figure out the problem if you dont have all the info.
Old 07-12-2014, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xbmwguy View Post
+1 on checking afrs. Next get rid of that Monty got to see one firsthand. Huge restriction.stock one would be better IMO
Dont know what type of monty you saw?
but mine is double diameter pipes over stock
Power difference is more than noticable
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Row 1998 996 MK1 3.4 296hp new daily driver
Old 07-13-2014, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilonly View Post
Robert, buy this AFR gauge that is being sold here used, i have the same one and consider it needed and makes diagnosis much much easier, fun even. I use it to tune WUR's in my car just for fun, enjoy life a little, JMHO



FS: Daytona-Sensor Wego 4

I had one of these in my car!! i took it out and asked here what it was and i was told it was an old phone...!!???????
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Old 07-13-2014, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IMR-Merlin View Post
Not sure if anyone has mentioned this, but when was the last time you did the fuel filter. Check for:
fuel pressure
Boost

Then go deeper if needed. It's hard to figure out the problem if you dont have all the info.
Sorry didnt mention
Fuel filter is A BMC BRANDED,
I BOUGHT IT FROM HERE WHEN I BOUGHT IT IT WAS A FABSPEED

wondering about fuel-filter..
can that affect system or fuel pressures ??
Or only Airflow?

ie: for a while i couldn't get the Oring on it properly so the fuel head was partial open to air,NO install instructions, i didnt know you had to remove the big oring on the fuel head , i ended up CUTTING the sound insulation from the bulkhead to make it fit!!!
IF IT CAME WITH INSTRUCTIONS THIS WOULD NOT HAVE HAPPENED NOT HAPPY BMC
Speaking of that.. the clamps and filters that come with it, anyone know how to install/use the funny hose holder clamp?>>>AGAIN NO instructions ANNOYING PRODUCT will NOT RECOMMEND

I found the BOOST problem see pic when i tightened the hose other day i only did one side so the other came undone, all fixed now.

by the way ill be selling one of those sensor thing myself now as i was told it was for an old phone i cut all the associated wiring out of the car.
I wont be backtracking and wiring in something i had already removed out of stupidity,

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Row 1998 996 MK1 3.4 296hp new daily driver
Old 07-13-2014, 04:34 PM
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Heres the part i have already cut out of the car,

not happy

for sale

$60 plus postage

Part ID please
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Row 1998 996 MK1 3.4 296hp new daily driver
Old 07-13-2014, 04:37 PM
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That is definitely an old cell phone module.
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Old 07-13-2014, 06:55 PM
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