I wonder if your CSV is actually working. This may sound counter-intuitive. But your WUR specs are pretty well factory spec now - except your boost dump is greater than factory. So you seem to have two issues. Cold start and lack of fuel at the top end.
The CSV is a PITA to get at, but putting 12v across the two pins (after you pull the plug) should make it click, and you should feel the solenoid pull in. They do seize up - rust.
Alan

Is your AAV working - not stuck?
Alan

What state are the injectors - flow rates, blockages..?
Alan

Alan, thanks for all your suggestions.

The AAv is working, it's a little slow to completely close but is open on cold start. I even bypassed it for a cold start test using a 3/4" coupling. Same result but it idled a lot higher as it should.

I had the injectors out in the spring. I wired the pintles open and left them in injector cleaner for 2 weeks then blew them out backwards. Finally I hooked them up and put them each in a water bottle and verified the flow to each was equal. All good there!

I am at the point with this car that I started to look at trading it in for either an '01 911 turbo or a '07 Audi rs4. I don't want to out any more money into mine as I am at the limit now where I can still get back everything I put in (other than my labour)

So flat6, in re-reading your 1st post it appears that you are complaining about a long-ish crank time. Is that correct? The culprit could be your injectors. It could be that the tiny springs that hold them closed could be worn to the point where they leak or varnish that is holding them open. If there is no fuel in the fuel head after the car sits for few hours, it takes time to get fuel back in the system, hence a long crank time. This happens a lot on old EFI cars with dirty injectors.
You might hook up your CIS pressure gauge and measure residual pressure after an overnight period. You could also run some Techron through a tank of fuel. Shouldn't cost you much to do those things.

The best way to test the injectors (without spending money) is to run the pumps with the injectors out, but connected to the fuel head. Push the airplate down a fraction and look at the pattern. As Paul says, if they are suspect it will cause issues especially at low throttle opening. You may find one or two dribbling rather than spraying.
The only way to check flows is to place them in containers while doing above test, open airplate then measure the fuel.
regards
Alan

I am scheduled for a leakdown test on Friday to confirm the motor is healthy. Fingers and toes crossed all is good and then testing the injectors for leaking is next. With this weather changing so fast it might not be figured out until next spring :(

wait 6 months and you it will be worth another 5k.

I have only read the last few posts but can offer an easy test that may shed a clue (if you have not done this).
Unplug the fuel pump safety switch on the air meter assembly then turn the ignition key to the 2nd detent. Both the CDI and fuel pumps should run. Let them run for 10 seconds then hit the starter. If the engine fires immediately you have a leak down issue.

Found the problem. Very low compression on #2. Will be pulling the engine this winter to fix. :(