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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clifton, VA
Posts: 153
83 euro 930 engine rebuild

"First off many future thanks for any and all advice"


Intro
I have owned this car for the last 10 years, has 65k on the odometer, 41K when purchased. I have tracked it 10+x I think and it has ran like a champ. No major upgrades, pretty much stock 1979 chassis with a 83Euro 930 Engine. No problems other than basic oil changes. Until....


The reason: Coming home from a track event and the car started to run really rough (I should have pulled over) but I continued home since I had only 45 miles left. I had already had a bad weekend at the track as I went off and busted up the front corner panel, lower valence and fender..

Essentially my distributor had moved. The screw that held it in place came loose...Was not a fun ride home. I did not know the issue until The following day after I relaxed and looked under the hood. Poof set the timing and I was back in business. Continued to drive for several months on weekends running short errands and it just never felt right after.

Decided to do a compression test and sure enough cylinder 3 & 6 were losing 55%. Performed a leak down and test came back the same...

Decided...Time for an engine drop and let the madness begin.

I will not bore you with the tear down as anyone can take something apart. The question is can you put it all back together. Hopefully with my notes, pictures, books and my short term memory (Hence the reason for you all) I will be able to put Humpty Dumpty back together again.



What I have done so far:
1. Complete breakdown
2. Crank/flywheel/rods cleaned and rebalanced
3. Heads cleaned and new everything
4. New engine wiring harness
5. Purchased all stuff to get case back together minus stuff I can get at the local stores.
6. Case is coming back tomorrow. I wanted it cleaned and oil squirters tested and replaced if needed.



1st stage - Crank and Rod assembly

I start this weekend...Let the fun begin..


List of items on hand:
1. Plastigauge
2. Loctite 271
3. new rod bearings
4. New OEM rod bolts and nuts
5. brand new Torque wrench 3/8
6. Assembly lube
7. cleaned and balanced crank/rods

Things to do prior to starting
Clean all parts again, Measure everything


Question to the audience before I embark.

Torque setting for OEM rod bolts
I think I have heard 1st stage is 11lbs (15nm) and (now I have seen 37-41lbs and 50-55nm listed somewhere else) HELP!!!!!!
second stage I assume is to continue another 90 degrees after.. Correct??

I was reviewing Waynes 911 rebuild book and he says 14.7lbs (20nm) I know it says 911 on the cover but think much of the same information would be true. Correct?

Thanks all and I will post pics as I go along. I await for the proper torque setting.

Cheers for reading and will need your keen eye for additional input

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Scott

1979 930 - Black on Black and in the woods

"My third child that will cost more in the long run" :shock:

Last edited by vascott01; 11-06-2014 at 04:16 PM..
Old 11-06-2014, 02:43 PM
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Picture of car
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Scott

1979 930 - Black on Black and in the woods

"My third child that will cost more in the long run" :shock:
Old 11-06-2014, 02:54 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,289
The engine rebuilding forum is usually a better place for these questions.
I'd use ARP, Raceware, or Supertech rod bolts if I were you and they come with torque instructions using non synthetic motor oil on the threads. They are much better than stock ones and can be reused.

The big ends of the stock rods eventually become oval or egg shaped around .001" and they should be measured and resized with the rod bolts installed and torqued to spec at a machine shop.
If you're definitely using new stock rod bolts have the resizing done with the old bolts torqued to spec and if using the better quality after market bolts have the resizing done with them installed and torqued to their higher torque spec.
Maybe you had that done already.
Old 11-06-2014, 03:40 PM
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Moving this to 911 rebuild... Thanks
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Scott

1979 930 - Black on Black and in the woods

"My third child that will cost more in the long run" :shock:
Old 11-11-2014, 09:33 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 104
Garage
I'd do replacement rod bolts too. The preferred method of tightening is a stretch gauge I believe. I think mine is still in good shape if you need to borrow it, let me know. I am just over in Centreville, so I can't be very far from you.


Good luck!

Keith

Old 11-11-2014, 09:42 AM
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