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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Eastern North Carolina
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The repair.


One of my friends is a machinist, I was worried the neck would warp during welding so I had him turn down an aluminum plug to be a very tight sliding fit....





Then I spent some quality time with the hacksaw and bastard file at home shaping a patch out of 1/4" thick 6061 aluminum.



Its not the prettiest weld, I sanded all the edges back and heated the area with a torch, but I think some oil was still left in the aluminum and that contamination made the weld a bit ugly. I would love to send it out to get hard anodized so the O-rings don't wear a grooves into it....


Last edited by reclino; 11-02-2020 at 01:47 PM..
Old 11-02-2020, 11:58 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #241 (permalink)
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Question, does anyone know if this part is type II anodized (.0001-.0012" coating thickness) or type III (about .002"). My guess is this is a type II finish IAW MIL-A-8625. It doesn't seem as thick or durable as the anodize on the receiver of an AR15 which is type III
Old 11-03-2020, 04:00 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #242 (permalink)
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Well, mistakes were made.
I assumed the bypass valve housing was cast aluminum, and welding a piece of 6061 to this would be simple. The housing is magnesium, and you can weld aluminum to it..... however cracks will soon form and the weld will fail. So I will be doing this job again in the future, once I find a piece of scrap magnesium. It's hard to show the cracks in the weld, so no pictures of this yet.

Last edited by reclino; 04-05-2021 at 11:12 AM..
Old 04-05-2021, 07:00 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #243 (permalink)
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I did make some forward progress, I got the oil cooler out of the car, and had a bung welded on for the fan temp sender.
I had to heat the connection with a propane torch even after days of soaking with PB blaster. Notice the box end wrenches linked to the open end. I definitely needed the extra leverage.
Brick for scale, no bricks or fittings were harmed in this evolution.








Last edited by reclino; 04-05-2021 at 11:14 AM..
Old 04-05-2021, 07:13 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #244 (permalink)
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I bought a spare shift coupler, but the stock sloppy bushings just had to go.







The brass bushings are from Pelican,.and they were a perfect light press fit. I found some very thin spacer washers and lubed everything with Moly grease. There is no discernable play, and the joint moves freely.

Last edited by reclino; 04-05-2021 at 11:15 AM..
Old 04-05-2021, 07:16 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #245 (permalink)
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The cylinders were honed round, and replated to factory spec by Power Seal USA.
Fred Apgar suggested cleaning the cylinders by scrubbing the ID with clean terry cloth rags soaked in ATF, at room temp, 100 deg F, 200 deg, and again at 250. Then send the cylinders off for ultrasonic cleaning. I have an outdoor smoker just for baking car parts.





I sustained only minor burns performing this task. They are boxed up waiting the next trip to Mooresville for ultrasonic cleaning.


Last edited by reclino; 04-05-2021 at 07:56 AM..
Old 04-05-2021, 07:39 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #246 (permalink)
 
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With some significant high frequency hearing loss thanks to working around military jet engines I think tuning this engine, and preventing knock and detonation may present some challenges. I had decided early on I wanted to add knock sensor ignition control. So for Christmas I got myself the gift that will keep on giving, no not the jelly of the month club, a J&S ignition.



It is set up with 2 ignition outputs, and can trigger the factory CDI, or standard inductive coils. I plan to set it up for both, with the ability to change between the two by plugging or unplugging connectors. If I ever get this car on a dyno I can see which ignition it prefers.

Last edited by reclino; 04-05-2021 at 08:55 AM..
Old 04-05-2021, 08:10 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #247 (permalink)
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Strut bar design challenge, with CAD, computer and cardboard versions.
My son is still doing AutoCAD and this took just a few minutes to model. We printed out the top one, and glued to a piece of cardboard, did a bit of test fitting in the car. It looked "heavy", so we shaved off as much weight as possible and printed out again. I had some 1/8" steel plate and a friend has a water jet, they cut out 4 pieces on Friday, may be able to pick them up today.


Now where is the best place to drop a second triangulated bar to? I know Rennline makes one that goes to the brake booster. I don't want to drill the unibody so this is an attractive option. I am considering designing and welding up a lower mount that I then epoxy to the unibody, if I ever need to remove it it's a simple matter to heat it up and break the epoxy bond.
BTW the rectangle drawn on each part is 1" long. This makes it easy to verify the printer is scaled properly for an accurate part.

Last edited by reclino; 04-05-2021 at 10:54 AM..
Old 04-05-2021, 10:51 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #248 (permalink)
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I have been trying to get a AJ racing or special wishes center console for years now. Have seen only a few in the past 5 years and missed being able to buy them. If anyone following this thread have a lead on one please feel free to contact me.

Last edited by reclino; 04-07-2021 at 03:49 PM..
Old 04-07-2021, 03:06 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #249 (permalink)
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I got the pieces from the water jet mocked up. Now they just need a bit of welding.

Old 04-09-2021, 04:30 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #250 (permalink)
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Step one, heat spare strut mounts in nearly boiling water for 15 minutes.



Carry directly to hydraulic press



Press out bushing with no damage.



Clean parts and sent out for Cadmium plating.

Old 04-11-2021, 09:13 AM
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[QUOTE=reclino;11285664]With some significant high frequency hearing loss thanks to working around military jet engines I think tuning this engine, and preventing knock and detonation may present some challenges. I had decided early on I wanted to add knock sensor ignition control. So for Christmas I got myself the gift that will keep on giving, no not the jelly of the month club, a J&S ignition.



FWIW, I added the J&S Safeguard system this winter to my '87. The install is straightforward, and Jim is very helpful with any questions. I fired up my car last week and the function is really amazing; it works so smoothly, with no sudden anything. Event the rev limit function is super smooth. From an installation perspective, it is a lot easier to install everything with the engine out of the car. I put the box under my passenger seat.

Congratulations on this build. Your photo documentation is extremely thorough; thank you for taking the time here. Good luck on the rest; can't wait to see the finished product.

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'87 Carrera (3.4L) w/Turbo, full-bay IC; front bumper aux oil cooler
'07 Boxter
Old 04-12-2021, 09:34 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #252 (permalink)
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