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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdwinL View Post
Anyone with a 930 can convert their engine to RUF spec but if you want to keep it authentic RUF it's $$$.

1985 RUF BTR (Porsche 911 Turbo)

Here's a good site that will shed more light into the RUF conversion.
Authenticity can be debated. Ruf uses some parts off the shelf and rebrands them as a Ruf part. I believe he uses Mahle pistons. So cylinders may be Mahle(or Wossner) as well. Camshafts are 935(or BTR spec). The authenticity/unique part of Ruf is the intercooler and such parts designed by them. The rest of the parts one can buy for a lot less then Ruf would charge. So an authentic car can be debated by those who believe that cars with a Ruf vin are the only Ruf cars...while others may argue that a conversion with the Ruf kit is just as authentic..or those like myself who has gone above and beyond to obtain most of the original BTR parts....and while I did not buy the Ruf engine kit...my car is a 3.4L, twin plug, custom grind cams, GT35R, Ruf 5 speed with Motec Efi coil on plug..churning out a decent 410hp to the wheels..so for me a Ruf engine conversion kit would have probably been cheaper...
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Old 08-13-2015, 12:43 PM
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Waste Gate Question

Does anyone know anyone who rebuild's waste gates? I am trying to keep the car as stock (OEM) as possible, and I may have some wastegate issues.....

In looking through various areas of the forum I found some posts indicating that I could test the WG by putting some compressed air in at about 12 to 15 psi into the pressure side of it and listen for the gate to open. If it leaks a lot before it opens it may need to be replaced. It also said I will be able to hear the air escaping around the guide before the valve opens. A little leakage is normal but a lot is not.

Mine may also have a problem where the gate meets the pipe (see photos).

I have not found any place that sells used ones - or even where I can send mine to be tested.

Also, on my pipe there is a welded tube with what looks like a nut on it and it appears a tube was cut off from it. This does not show anywhere on the diagram I have of the exhaust system for my euro 930. Could this be something added for the emissions? Since I am not reconnecting the emissions tubes can I just have it welded closed? Need a new pipe? other?

Next question is on the wastegate the bottom part of mine with the fins looks corroded and is separating from the pipe. Is this something that should be replaced? If so, do I need to do the whole thing or just that part?

If I have to I guess I can buy one of the newer replacements, but wanted to stay as close to OEM on the rebuild as possible.

I have some photos but am not yet "a master of the BBS" so I have not yet figured how to pos them since it asks me for a URL

Last edited by agentx; 08-18-2015 at 01:16 PM.. Reason: Updated information and adding photos
Old 08-18-2015, 11:11 AM
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The wastegate is a part that is very important to have working correctly because if it fails you will overboost and possibly blow your engine in a split second if other protective measures are not in place or fail also. I recommend rebuilding it for peace of mind in any case..

It is quite a simple device for the most part but new diaphragms are a bit expensive and you should replace the studs with new because they are prone to breakage upon disassembly due to the heat they must withstand in normal usage.

I have been through a 930 WG a time or 2 and have set up a system and a jig for removing broken studs and have been 100% successful at saving the original threaded holes as well. I already have the correct tools for the job and a successful setup.

To do a proper rebuild includes replacing the diaphragm and studs, the main parts should be reusable, just under $200 in parts. The valve guide may also be in need of replacement but it is less likely and easily doable but would add to the expense and you don't really know until you are in there.

I will offer to rebuild your wastegate for $250 including a new diaphragm with proper studs, nuts, and gaskets (quality parts from TiAL). Add $10 each for extracting any broken studs saving the original threaded holes. Plus return shipping.

Replacing the valve guide could also add to the expense if it is needed but I am not in a position to quote exact cost on that. I would guess around $100 for a new valve guide + or -.. As far as I know it would have to be made by a machine shop but it is very likely your guide is fine.

Of course it is possible that main components such as the valve, seat, and housings could need to be replaced but I feel that is highly unlikely and if so I am confident I could source good replacement parts at quite reasonable costs.





These pics are early in my first attempt (eventually successful) but now I know what works and what doesn't and have a proven setup.. The valve seat plate did NOT want to come off this WG until I really put a hurtin on the remainder of the studs..

In my experience broken studs are very common. I attempt to easy out first but have had no success with that but it's worth a shot. What I end up doing is drilling out the original stud as much as possible before getting into the threads and then tapping the remains of the stud out of the original threads.

I like to locate my setup off of an existing good hole so I know my direction is true but that is not possible with all of the studs broken, but once I get one hole fixed I can then locate from it to be very precise.

After drilling out the studs as far as possible I can use a pick/punch to clear the first few threads so the tap will start in the threads and tap out the rest of the stud's threads from the housings threads.
I tap in the drill press with the same setup (not under power) in order to keep my tap and work perfectly straight (already located) to give the best chance of perfectly saving the original housings threads.

This 930 WG had 6 of its 8 studs broke off and I was able to clear every one of the holes saving the original threads without issue with this method..

Also, I do have another 930 WG on hand with new studs installed to replace yours should I happen to make a mistake I would eat it and give you mine..

If you don't want to trust your WG to me that is fine and perfectly understandable, at least from this post you will have a good idea of what a WG rebuild entails and what you are up against..
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Last edited by fasteddie313; 08-20-2015 at 09:19 AM..
Old 08-20-2015, 09:01 AM
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Thanks you for posing all of this. It is fantastic advice! Unfortunately when I got into this I discovered that the guy who took the engine apart origionally and then could not fix it (long story) actually cracked the lower portion and the upper section was no good either so I had to go a completely different route.
Old 10-05-2015, 03:24 PM
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NEW CHALLENGE!

The groups has been spot-on in helping me through all of this so I thought I would throw one more out there for some additional sage advice.

I'm down to the carpets in the car. My whole interior was done in the Porsche Dark Blue color. I'm not sure the carpets are salvageable.... going to try to find a rug cleaning place to take them so since I have not found anyone online that doe sit.

IF I have to go with new carpets, one of the forum folks recommended Appbiz Inc.

I had a great conversation with Robert there today and, unfortunately, he does not have any dark blue Silverknit sets in stock and I am still trying to stay with a stock refurbish. Robert recommended that if I want to stay with the OEM route and Sliverknit carpet, he has a set for my car in black. His recommendation was that going black on only the carpets would not be bad for an OEM restoration and might be a night contrast with the dark blue interior.

Any suggestions from the collective brain trust?

You guys have never steered me wrong on this!

:-)
Old 10-05-2015, 03:30 PM
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You have a Pm with information..
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Old 10-05-2015, 04:03 PM
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Just wanted to post and update!

Restoration saga is progressing. Thanks to all the great help from you all I cleared the waste gate, carpet, and interior hurtles. UNFORTUNATELY, I discovered the other day that the Rat-SOB who had the car before I retrieved it allowed the radio to go missing (of course his story is that it was never there.). Amazingly I found a 100% restored and complete Stock Blaupunkt with a 1 year warrantee that matches the model in my Porsche COA perfectly.

Here is the question thought.

Does anyone have the specs from a parts manual or anything on the OEM door speakers and maybe a source?
Old 10-26-2015, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agentx View Post
Just wanted to post and update!

Amazingly I found a 100% restored and complete Stock Blaupunkt with a 1 year warrantee that matches the model in my Porsche COA perfectly.

Here is the question thought.

Does anyone have the specs from a parts manual or anything on the OEM door speakers and maybe a source?
The stock speakers were junk and their paper cones usually disintegrated over time. You may be able to find some used ones, however you will be better served getting and updated speaker that fits the hole.

I really don't think the Originality Police will fine you for this!
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Old 10-27-2015, 06:15 AM
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Good advice. Maybe I can find the original speaker covers and just get better speakers... they'll look the same... :-)
Old 10-27-2015, 06:59 AM
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Hybrid Audio's Unity line offers some very high quality paper cone speakers. I run their reference series, which don't look factory.

Products - The Home of the World's Finest Loudspeakers, and World Championship Car Audio Speaker Systems.
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Old 10-27-2015, 09:23 AM
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Hello All!

It has been a while but the "bringing back my 930 fromthe dead" project is progressing... Need some help if anyone out there knows of sources.

I was wondering if there was any source I could reach out to on loan of a tool for my engine rebuild. I need a P202 and P203 Cam lock tool for the mechanic to put the engine back together and did not think it would really be cost effective to buy something I would literally only use one time.

I'm in the Tidewater area of Virginia but would gladly pay mailing both ways :-)
Old 05-05-2016, 11:08 AM
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Agents, sent you a PM.
Old 05-06-2016, 05:11 AM
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Anyone have experience putting a Griffiths package on a 930?

The compressor on my A/C is dead and I think some of the parts are missing. I've been talking to Griffiths about either going with their Reliability upgrade
package #2 or going "all In" on a Mr. Cool system since I likely have to replace all the hoses in my car as well..

My current bracket is what I was worried about after seeing it.. that I'd invest
all that money in the upgrade and not be able to use it with the brackets I have. My car is a stock 1982 930 Turbo 3.3L Euro car so I know the bracket on it is the original.

Anyone have any experience doing this that can say if I could use the bracket I have or if I have to take out another mortgage and buy 911SC bracket for this?



Old 05-06-2016, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agentx View Post
Anyone have experience putting a Griffiths package on a 930?

The compressor on my A/C is dead and I think some of the parts are missing. I've been talking to Griffiths about either going with their Reliability upgrade
package #2 or going "all In" on a Mr. Cool system since I likely have to replace all the hoses in my car as well..

My current bracket is what I was worried about after seeing it.. that I'd invest
all that money in the upgrade and not be able to use it with the brackets I have. My car is a stock 1982 930 Turbo 3.3L Euro car so I know the bracket on it is the original.

Anyone have any experience doing this that can say if I could use the bracket I have or if I have to take out another mortgage and buy 911SC bracket for this?
I would ask Charlie directly. He will know. I purchased his system including all the barrier hoses, front condenser, upgraded evaporator, etc. everything but the compressor and rear deck condenser because mine were fine. High quality parts, excellent instructions, the install kit was very thorough: every screw, washer, oring, etc. was there. I didn't need to buy anything else to install it. Great support from Charlie with any questions too. His shop is like 20 minutes from my house, so I actually drove there to pick up the system and meet him in person. Great guy.

If the hoses are original, don't even think of keeping them. If they aren't cracked, they will be soon...

If you do need a bracket, I bet you could find it used. A lot of guys take their AC out, so have no use for the bracket. Put a WTB add in the classifieds.
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:16 AM
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That's off a turbo? It looks totally different than the one on my '79 US model but I've never seen a Euro setup. Looks like it mounts on the driver side of the engine? Mine is on the pass. side.

Looking at it again I guess it goes on pass. side with comp. laying flat?

Last edited by boosted79; 05-06-2016 at 11:22 AM..
Old 05-06-2016, 11:19 AM
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That bracket should clean up fine. I mounted a sanden on mine using the same bracket as the York but had to do a few mods to get it mounted right.
Old 05-06-2016, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boosted79 View Post
That's off a turbo? It looks totally different than the one on my '79 US model but I've never seen a Euro setup. Looks like it mounts on the driver side of the engine? Mine is on the pass. side.

Looking at it again I guess it goes on pass. side with comp. laying flat?
Yeah, it looks nothing like the bracket off my 88 either, but it is a different compressor too.
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:28 AM
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I've been talking to Charles at Griffiths and he said the the question is if you can mount a 507 on a 82 turbo nicely.

He's pretty sure the SC bracket system will mount on the turbo's engine supports.
He does not have have a 82 turbo there to look. He sent me some photos and circled the only questionable item where there might be interference with respect to the SC's bracket belt adjustment system which utilizes a 8 mm stud on the left side of the bracket that is near the engine cooling fan shroud and oil pressure switch.

I can send them my message or email with his explanations if it helps. Him not having a 930 to confirm with just makes this a little bit of a challenge.

ANYONE HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE IF THIS WILL WORK?

Last edited by agentx; 05-07-2016 at 03:01 PM..
Old 05-06-2016, 12:38 PM
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Hey guys been a while! The good news is that FINALLY my engine is back in the car and my AC parts from Griffiths are on the way!

BAD NEWS IS that now that the engine has been rebuilt and in it won't start!

The engine turns over but I am only getting power to 1/2 of the fuse box and not getting any spark (coil). My "shop manual" does not have a wire diagram in it. Anyone know where I can find any electrical diagrams for a 1982 930 Turbo EURO car?

The car has a Permatune Electronic ignition box in it that "seems" to test out ok by the steps they have online, but the big problem remains we are not getting power to the coil

Last edited by agentx; 12-22-2016 at 10:26 AM.. Reason: Update info
Old 12-22-2016, 09:20 AM
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Looking for a paper or scan copy of Brian Leask adjustable WUR instructions.
Please contact me at MrDangerUS@hotmail.com

Kind Regards
John
Old 12-24-2016, 08:47 PM
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