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Originally Posted by agentx View Post
Hey guys been a while! The good news is that FINALLY my engine is back in the car and my AC parts from Griffiths are on the way!

BAD NEWS IS that now that the engine has been rebuilt and in it won't start!

The engine turns over but I am only getting power to 1/2 of the fuse box and not getting any spark (coil). My "shop manual" does not have a wire diagram in it. Anyone know where I can find any electrical diagrams for a 1982 930 Turbo EURO car?

The car has a Permatune Electronic ignition box in it that "seems" to test out ok by the steps they have online, but the big problem remains we are not getting power to the coil
Just read this thread and have to admit it started like a Stephen King novel... I do hope it works out for you. These things, and the parts and service ecosystem surrounding them, can quickly drain any wallet and the fun out of ownership. Thanks for your service- and those prior mechanics should have to swim naked through a fiberglass pool. Fingers crossed that nothing is further amiss with the mechanicals at this point.

Take a look at this thread for some CDI and coil diagnostics. There are others in the sticky thread of "Help- Car Won't Start" at the top of the 930 sub-forum and of course the search button.
Help !!! No spark to coil on 930
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1986 930, 1969 Mach1, 2003 540 Sport, 2016 R1200RS

Last edited by gsxrken; 12-25-2016 at 12:24 PM..
Old 12-25-2016, 12:22 PM
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Thanks to everyone for the help! We're moving along.. all be it SLOWLY! Thanks to our sponsors at Pelican I've got my heater boxes working again and the engine is back in the car... not fully running, but at least a step!

Looks like from sitting for so long the tires have dry rot so I'll need new ones (OUCH!)....

Any recommendations on make and model for tires? A;so source? I know I can get about anything at a local tire shop or Costco, but was told that some folks have had good luck ordering them on line and just having them balanced and installed..... Been so long since the car actually ran not sure what would be the best tires for it.


Recommendations?
Old 01-01-2017, 01:34 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #102 (permalink)
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Remind us what wheel set up you plan.
Old 01-02-2017, 05:19 AM
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Not sure what you mean by "wheel set up" I am trying to stay stock, so it has the standard 930 rims. It's a wide body in the back. I can post some photos if it will help.
Old 01-05-2017, 06:59 AM
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Tire photos
Old 01-05-2017, 07:01 AM
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If you post the actual wheel dimensions (width, diameter, offset), you will get more reliable feedback.

Car looks nice!
Old 01-05-2017, 09:19 AM
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If you have the stock 7 and 9 inch rims, the stock size tires are available for RE11s from Bridgestone via tirerack.com

Bridgestone┬*Potenza RE-11

My local Pcar shop couldn't touch their price and had no issue with me buying them and having them install them, but check on that before you buy.

I have them and like them. Technically a summer tire, so be careful in cold and wet, but good wear life so far for me and they definitely stick.
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Old 01-05-2017, 09:35 AM
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I have Toyo R888 proxies on 16" stock wheel sizes. They are a fantastic holding tire, give plenty of warning at the edge, and have a nice break when they let go.

they are a bit noisy, will not last me long, and there is no road hazard available on them (which I discovered when I hit a nail the weekend after I bought them). also, shouldn't be driven below 40*f I think.
Old 01-05-2017, 09:53 AM
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hi

Old 01-06-2017, 08:58 AM
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Thanks for the great input. I'll measure the tires and confirm.

NEXT CRISIS... actually a two-fold crisis....

The engine is back in the car and starts, but the pump on the engine that is supposed to deliver oil to the turbo (see photo) is not sending oil to the Turbo. I spoke with our sponsors at Pelican Parts and their rep said that there is no "rebuild kit" for these and that they rarely fail. In summary for new folks reading this, due to an ugly situation with a local repair shop my engine came back to me literally as "a box of parts" and it has taken over 2 years to actually get it back together. Although it starts now and runs, We do not want to do much more than that until everything is functioning and I'm really worried about this since I put in a whole new turbo, etc.

As far as connections to the pump, it is connected to the oil and it looks like the oil gravity feeds into the pump.

Does it need to be primed?

Anyone know a place I can send it to have it looked at and serviced/rebuilt if needed?

Crisis 2.... Since the idiot who had the car let it sit outside for so long the rubber in the fuel line rotted out and it now leaks where the fuel line connects to the metal fuel line in the car (see photo).

I just ordered two new fuel lines from Pelican parts (OUCH!) and was told they think they run the whole length of the car under the well (which, of course, is sealed.

The interior is completely out of the car to be redone, but are there any tricks of the trade to replace the lines WITHOUT having to pull the engine (which, of course) was just put back in?




Old 01-09-2017, 08:51 AM
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That pump pulls oil away from the turbo oil tank. It does not push oil into the turbo.

There is a rebuilt kit available from TurboKraft, but when it fails, the tank overflows, which is not your problem.
There is a ball bearing in the supply line (I believe it comes from up top by the triangle of death) that can get stuck and cause a lack of oil.

You should disconnect the oil tank and run the starter without firing the engine until oil drains out the bottom of the turbo oil return line so you know it is working so you don't blow out your turbo before you even get it on the road.
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Old 01-09-2017, 09:11 AM
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The pump in your photo is the turbo scavenger pump. It draws oil from the turbo drain tank below the turbo and pumps it back to the oil tank. It does not provide oil to the turbo. The turbo get oil pressure from an oil line that connects to the front, top, center of the engine where the oil pressure warning pressure switch is located.

You should consider changing all your fuel lines as they are very old now and they are not compatible with ethanol in the fuel these days. You can get complete replacements sets from pelican "BoxsterGT". His offers new polymide tunnel lines and ethanol compatible rubber lines. The tunnel lines are designed so that you can connect the new line to the back of the old line and pull the new line through the tunnel as you pull the old line from the front of the car where the steering rack is located. Search pelican parts forums for "replacing tunnel fuel lines" or "BoxsterGT" to find more information. Len Cummings is BoxsterGT, he only answers email, Len@autosportengineering.com. I changed all my line about two years ago using his lines.
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Old 01-09-2017, 09:16 AM
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+1 for Len. I got my lines from him and they are excellent quality.
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Old 01-09-2017, 09:21 AM
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Len is great for the lines. However, you probably don't need the lines that run thru the chassis. What you will need are those from the tank to the pump & pump to the chassis line as seen in your 2 last pictures

The other lines you will need are those that connect to the "polymide tunnel lines" where they exit the tunnel near the trans. Because of your "Pelican parts (OUCH!)" comment above, I suspect you have already ordered these. they run from the tunnel exit to the pump and then up the backside of the rear seat pan into the engine compartment connecting at the accumulator and return.. there is also another line that connects from the filter to the hard line going to the fuel head. All of these lines should be replaced.

Jeff & Dap are spot on regarding your scavenge pump.. with the way that pump looks you may just want to remove it, clean it-up and re-build it with the parts from Turbo-Kraft as mentioned.
Also, I would remove the oil line on the top side of the turbo, " and run the starter without firing the engine" to see if the oil is being pushed into the unit.

Lastly, you can still buy those lines to the pump or have a local hot-rod shop make up some for you if that's easier/cheaper using your fittings after you clean them up and paint or re-plate them.

Good luck!
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Old 01-09-2017, 12:05 PM
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Yeah.. I already bought the lined for Pelican. They sold me the whole line from the back to the front. Over $103.75 for one

Fuel Line 91135606607 - Genuine Porsche - 911-356-066-07 | Pelican Parts

$126.75 for the other:

Fuel Return Line to Fuel Tank 91135606207 - Genuine Porsche - 911-356-062-07 | Pelican Parts

Not sure I have the expertise to rebuild the pump.. know anyone out there that does it or is is something simple a novice can do?
Old 01-09-2017, 03:22 PM
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Pump is easy to rebuild, but again, not the cause of the problem you described. If, after you get oil going through the turbo, the drip tank overflows, then you may have a pump problem.
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Old 01-09-2017, 04:30 PM
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Pull the red fuel pump relays closest to the windshield on the front fuse panel so that when you crank the engine to prime the turbo, it does not start nor does it fill the cylinders with gasoline.
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Old 01-09-2017, 04:57 PM
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If you use the factory tunnel lines, the front of them have a 90* bend where barbs are installed to convert over to the rubber hose that goes to the tank return and to pump outlet. I am not sure if the factory replacement hoses are rated for ethanol.

To replace with new factory lines, you need to connect a pull line to the rear of the polymide line and then pull the old line out from the front which will draw your pull cord through the tunnel as the old line is removed. Then connect the rear of the new line to the pull cord and draw it through the tunnel from the rear using the pull cord. Be aware there rubber grommets both front and rear where the polymide lines enter and exit the tunnel. These must removed prior to starting the job and new ones will be required once the tunnel lines have been replaced. They can be a PITA to remove and install. Also, you will likely need to remove the passenger seat, the console to pull up the front carpet to expose the access holes in the tunnel, and the rear cover plate for the shifter coupling to assist with directing the tunnel lines through the tunnel as they can get hung up along the way. There are metal tabs at the front and rear of the tunnel that capture the tunnel lines that will need bent back to free the lines.
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Old 01-10-2017, 07:01 AM
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Thanks guys! We checked it out and the pump seems in good shape on the inside. Am going to try the fixes you recommended. As for the fuel lines I sent Len a couple emails as his box on the forum here is full. I don'y know any other way to get ahold of him, but I have the other ones on hold so I can definitely buy his if I can find a way to reach him!
Old 01-10-2017, 07:29 AM
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Len only answers his email. He does not respond to PM's. Sometimes it takes a few days for him to respond. I have seen on the technical forum where some other people have been trying to get in contact of him. Maybe he is out of town.
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1977 930 Slant, MS3 EFI, Carrera intake, Twin plug, Powerhaus headers, Magnaflow muffler, Garretson intercooler, GTX3071R
Old 01-10-2017, 08:49 AM
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