Help with electrical prob

[shbop]

Took the car out for a spin yesterday. Maiden voyage since total re-build. Electrical died 10 minutes out. Nothing worked. Battery showed 12.6 volts at terminals, but nothing would work. After 5-10 minutes the horn worked, gauges lit when I turned the key, but not enough juice to crank. Just trying to crank killed everything again. After a while, electrical was back, but only 12.6 volt. Battery has been on charger all night. Any ideas from the trust? The only add-on to electrics is an Innovate AF gauge. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

[mark houghton]

Dirty ground would be the first place I look at. 12.6 is a bit low; fully charged without any load or draw, the battery should read at least 12.8. Check your negative battery connection (clean and tighten) as well as the negative ground strap where it connect so the transmission.

Even a low battery @ 12.6, you should have at least low draw things working, like dome and gauge lights, stuff like that. With a bad connection, once you put serious draw on things by cranking the starter, the voltage will drop to where nothing will work.

[shbop]

Mark, thanks for the fast reply. This is my first 930, and I've noticed that when I turn the engine off, it isn't immediate. There's a very brief delay, and someone told me this was unique to the 930'S. I started thinking about this when I lost all power, yet the battery showed 12.6, then a few minutes later, the electrical resumed, but not enough power. Trying to start the car immediately killed everything again, although the battery showed 12.6. I'll re-check grounds first thing this morning.

[Ronnie's.930]

Jon, I've learned the hard way that it is best to start with the seemingly obvious stuff with an electrical problem, so even though the battery shows 12.6 volts on a multimeter, I would recommend that you take it to a local autoparts store and have it load tested - a battery with couple of dead cells with often still show adequate voltage on a multimeter.

The ignition run-on is a function of delay relay that is meant to clear out excess fuel that K-Jet/CIS is always dumping - doubt that has anthing to do with your electrical problem.

Also, once the battery is verified good, or bad and you've replace it, and you are able to start the car, measure the running voltage at the battery. Cold, with no accessories on and at idle speed, you will typically see 13-14 volts with these cars - hot and all accessories on, the running/charging voltage is much lower (can be as low as low 12s without being a problem).

[shbop]

Guys, can't thank you enough, and boy do I feel like a dumb-a__. The chassis side of the battery ground strap was not secure. A few months ago I was playing with the wire harness route and windshield washer stuff, and pulled everything I could out, to make room. When I went back together, I screwed the nut back by hand. Thanks again! Sorry to take-up band width for such a simple mis-que. Now if it would just stop raining, I can get my sled back in action.

[Ronnie's.930]

Originally Posted by shbop

. . . I screwed the nut back by hand.

That is a 10X a day, minimum, activity for Paul, only for him it is a and not a experience!!!!!

Cool you figured out the problem and that it was a simple fix!