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Brando
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About to cut my shift rod folks.
Ok this seems a little crazy but here I go. I'm going to cut and weld my shift rod in order to fit a longer trans which shortens up the length I need for the rod. Any last advise as to where and how? I'll assume I cut exactly the amount that is added to the length of the transmission which looks like only one inch but I was under the impression it was 1.1"?
Anyway how important is it? I feel like it's massively important reading up on the thread about adjusting the coupler we do have a little adjustment at the coupler yeah? I'm using the wevo shifter and I guess I'll be adding the wevo coupler soon as well. Cars not ready to drive yet so I have some time. But I need to et this rid cut and done. Thoughts? 
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Turbo powa! 1977 911s. it's cool |
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05-26-2015, 05:37 PM
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Southern NH
Posts: 3,553
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Yikes. I just ran into an issue with my G50 linkage not being long enough. I just added some spacers to get it shifting right
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05-26-2015, 05:48 PM
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rockwall, Texas
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Brandon, captain obvious here, but make sure you cut in a place where a "splice" won't make contact with anything. By "splice", I mean that rather than just butt weld (different than Paul who is a butt head) the two halves together, it would probably be better to also make a sleeve that goes over the cut area, and then weld the sleeve to each half of the rod - would be much stronger. For example, you find some hollow rod, or pipe, that fits snugly over the sift rod (ya', ya', I know), cut it so that it is about 4 inches in length (twice the size of Paul's "rod", so I hear) so that two inches are on either side of where the two rod halves now fit together, and then weld around the perimeter of the pipe. Does that make sense?
Hell, if you went the sleeve route, you could experiment with length before welding by attaching the rod halves to the splice with small set screws (not drilled into the rod, but just screwed through the sleeve and up against the rod - to hold the sleeve against the rod halves and hold everything in position while you try shifting through the gears). Last edited by Ronnie's.930; 05-26-2015 at 06:28 PM.. |
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05-26-2015, 06:07 PM
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Brando
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Perfect sense yes. Thanks. I had planned this route because I think this rod gets plenty of stroking if you will. And it need to be a very strong member er joint. There is mots of adjustability at the area by the coupler with about a full inch of back n fourth movement for adjustment. I think it will be fine. Scary though.
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Turbo powa! 1977 911s. it's cool |
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05-26-2015, 06:16 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: atlanta
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Quote:
The sleeve could also be internal... |
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05-26-2015, 06:16 PM
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Brando
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My rod has some chaffing and I'm trying to determine what it's hitting so I can try and avoid an area where space is limited.
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05-26-2015, 06:17 PM
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Brando
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Quote:
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Turbo powa! 1977 911s. it's cool |
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05-26-2015, 06:19 PM
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Banned
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Location: Rockwall, Texas
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Quote:
 Sounds like a lubrication problem to me! Maybe buy it in bulk, like Paul does?!?!?! |
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05-26-2015, 06:23 PM
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rockwall, Texas
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Quote:
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05-26-2015, 06:26 PM
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Brando
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No really do think I need it cut about an inch. The extra is just for nudge room
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Turbo powa! 1977 911s. it's cool |
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05-26-2015, 06:37 PM
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Location: atlanta
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Quote:
With a proper weld, any sleeve will be stronger then the original tube. |
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05-26-2015, 06:46 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 258
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Wouldn't making the shift rod length adjustable with an inline coupler remove all the guesswork and heartbreak? V Dub guys do it with an $18 piece; surely there is something suitable in the Pegasus catalog.
Early Vw Weld On Steel Shift Coupler - Transmission To Shift Rod - Dune Buggy Parts, Sandrail Parts, VW Parts - MooreParts.com |
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05-27-2015, 04:49 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2015
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"
Quote: Originally Posted by LJ851 View Post The sleeve could also be internal... True but is that as strong?" Find a piece of solid stock to give a tight slip fit into the shift rod, you might have to have one machined to fit. Make it about 6" long. bevel the ends of the rod where it was cut so you can lay a bead into it. Drill a couple 3/8" holes thru the shift rod on opposite sides , one at about 1" from the joint, the other at 2" from the joint. Do this on both sides of the cut. Slip the solid bar into the rod so it is centered. Fill the two 3/8" holes with weld getting good penetration into the solid and the rod. Slip the rod onto the other half of the solid and do the same. lay a bead into the bevel on the rod. Stronger than new. |
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05-27-2015, 05:42 AM
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Brando
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Ok I did the deed. I found some threaded rod from ace hardware that fit after some grinding to fit inside the shift rod once I cut it. It was tight but that's good. Took a few tries at the grind wheel to make it slide inside the shift rod. I removed about 1.1" and drilled 8 holes in my shift rod and slid it together. Should be noted that if you don't mark all around the rod before you cut it you'll never get it exactly right and I'm pretty sure that matters. There are some obvious bends in this rod. So I did that as you can see in the photos. Then weld up with good penetration. Grind so there are no hang ups inside the tunnel and I believe I'm good to go.
Inside sleeve.    
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Turbo powa! 1977 911s. it's cool Last edited by quattrorunner; 05-28-2015 at 08:13 AM.. |
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05-28-2015, 07:11 AM
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^^^
Looks great, Brandon - you are apparently VERY skilled when it comes (pun intended) to working with errrrr, ummmm, "rods"!!!! Does it fit (that's what she said, right?!)? |
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05-28-2015, 07:37 AM
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Brando
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Quote:
I won't know if it fit's till later this week, maybe saturday.
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05-28-2015, 08:15 AM
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hoonkraft
