Yes, as far as I know it's a .5 bar spring. :) I haven't opened the TIAL waste gate yet to absolutely confirm.

I haven't seen it go any higher than about 10 psi, and it only does that for a moment when I punch it WOT.

I'll post my original dyno sheet when it was NA (187whp) along with the Turbo DYNO.

Be careful with that original design wastegate circuit, with efi and that garrett turbo I would be amazed if you can control boost accurately. I ended up testing my old system without the wastegate in place and it was still overboosting. At any rate set you fuel/spark cut in tuner studio for safety.

Dyno day
 

I finally got the car on the dyno today and was quite shocked at the whp it produced. Watching the video both my boost gauge and theirs seemed to line up at about 10psi of boost on the upper RPM's.

I learned it is running a bit rich overall according to their AF/R gauge. Mines seems to read high as I suspiciously thought.

It also appears I may be blowing my plugs out at above 5700 RPMS.

I also realize the wastegate is not staying at .5 bar but closer to .7

So there are a few things I still need to adjust.



First, I'll post my original NA DYNO sheet for comparison:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1460851063.jpg



I'll let you watch the video for the turbo results....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCJt2pGYQuE

Thankyou !

Nice results!

My TiAL with .5 spring regularly runs to .7 per my VDO tattle tale (which is hooked directly to my manifold).

The TiAL website has a disclaimer that says different exhaust systems will produce different results and may cause their wastegate to open at a different pressure than intended.

For comprison, I'm running a K27 on Brian's headers with Zork.

I actually expected higher numbers. Am I reading it right that you got 187 WHP?

That dyno sheet was when the motor was still a NA 3.0L SC lump.

The turbo made 360hp/324tq

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO...

Are taking bets? I'm thinking 350 WHP as the over/under.

And I read more. And watch the video. And I nailed it.

Kyle,

Glad to see the injectors worked out for you. Impressive results, the GT30 turbo is a good fit for a 3.0 liter motor. Close up your plug gaps a little to stop blowing out the spark at the higher RPM's.

Those are great numbers! Congrats!

Above 5300 the DC starts to go above 85% ending around 100 at redline. Do I need to go bigger or am I safe for short bursts?

What is your AFR doing when approaching redline? If they are steady you are probably OK for short bursts. I am running 94 - 96% DC on my 55lb/hr injectors, but the AFR's are steady. I may upgrade to something larger.

Nice. Watching the video and seeing the final screen shot you are starting to lean out right before redline. This means you are running out of injector based on your description of reaching duty cycle limit.

looking at some numbers. Using a standard 15% loss you are about 425 at the flywheel. Your 44# injectors should get you close to 450 assuming good VE. I suspect your efficiency is not as good at higher rpm and this is the difference in flow. It could also be fuel pressure changes and a few other details.

Basically, turn down the boost or get bigger injectors. Going that lean under hard conditions is not a good thing.

Great build. Love the shape of the torque curve and linear power gain. That has got to be super fun to drive.

Get some tested Deka 55# or 60# on Ebay. Your idle shouldnt suffer.

Thanks for the advice guys.

I think I'm going to get a .3 bar spring and use a MBC to keep the max boost to about 8psi and no more than 10.

Turbonetics 10402-10, Turbonetics Variable Boost Control Kits | Turbonetics


The AFR number you see on my gauge (in the video) I believe reads high. When I was NA and without any changes the gauge started reading in the 14-16 range (calibration changed? I tried recalibrating but it didn't fix it...) when before it was reading in the 12-14 range under normal conditions. My suspicion was confirmed with the dyno day and their portable AFR sensor. It read WAY lower (10's) than what I was showing on my dash gauge. And several noted how 'rich' it was running at idle. (You could smell it. I've probably gotten used to it...) I had re-tuned the VE table with the boost and probably went too rich with a gauge that was reading higher than normal.

I decided to try 'pulling some fuel out' and I re-tuned my idle which actually increased my RPM and better idling that landed me in the 14.5 range instead of 12.5-13 as it used to always be.

I'll probably just replace the sensor. (Innovate LC-1)

Again, thanks for the continued advice. I'm still a noob with turbo stuff.

How about a EBS, cheaper and would give you more adjustability in future and maybe better control over boost than a MBC

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/ebc-electronic-boost-control-solenoid-kit/

I've got this exact one but have not got round to fitting it yet.

Thanks Gavin, didn't know they had the boost mod kit available for the MS2.

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-boost-control-mod-kit/

I'll have to look into this and see what minimum software version (Extra) I would need to run it. I'm not currently running the Extra software version yet.