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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboKraft View Post
No mods to the plumbing should be necessary running without the spacer.
Oil return line to the tank is unchanged.
Scavenge hard pipe will extend 1" further aft, but if you're using headers then you will be using a flexible 8AN line from the drain can to the hard pipe anyway. Non-issue.
^That. Stock hardline can be easily made to work as well if you are temporarily using the factory exhaust stuff. Whatever you do, DON'T use those long socket head cap screws to drive it, they will fatigue and break at the threads eventually. I can machine you a drive mandrel for whatever height you need if it comes to that.
Old 07-25-2016, 02:06 PM
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Thanks for the comments. I'm going to shelve this until I get the turbo mounted and ready to attach the tin to see where the plumbing ends up. The concern with the bolts fatiguing can be addressed by simply tying them together with a piece TIG'd between them near the heads but I'll wait to see where it ends up with the turbo and tin in place. Maybe I'll shorten the whole thing an inch or so. On the road now until next week then I'll start on the valve train.
Old 07-26-2016, 05:02 PM
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I whipped up a couple tools today to get ready for setting the cams.



Old 08-01-2016, 01:42 PM
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Made a piston stop and a mandrel for the degree wheel to check the accuracy of the pulley TDC mark.



Old 08-02-2016, 02:16 PM
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Z1 was dead nuts with the degree wheel



After some screwing around with the sprocket verniers. I didn't have to resort to filing the pins.


Old 08-04-2016, 06:11 PM
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Cheap insurance

That's 1184




Old 08-19-2016, 10:04 AM
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Long block is sealed up. Pulley is going out with a few other pieces for yellow zinc.



Old 08-23-2016, 04:26 PM
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Turning my attention to these used OBX chicom headers that I got for a song.



Old 08-23-2016, 04:31 PM
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While it is cheap insurance and will probably work, the gunk you put in the rocker shaft mounts will require some cleaning at a later date. I tore an engine down that had similar and it was a PITA. having said that I have never had that area leak (while I am sure others have other stories). So I choose not to do the gunk approach - but do use O rings. I do not use the RSR ones (expensive I think from memory) but I found a selection of regular O rings that piggy back on each other and do a perfect job (assuming the stock mounting was going to leak), for about $5
Regards
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 08-24-2016, 12:11 AM
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Alan, I used the RSR O-rings too, there won't be any shaft leaks. Don't put it in the hex's and it has to be absolutely clean to get the 1184 to stick. I put a thread about this in the rebuild section just to see the doomsday responses.

Steve
Old 08-24-2016, 02:59 AM
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Hi Steve, I am quite sure you won't have any leaks either.
If I had an issue with a shaft or saw the possibility one might leak, I am sure I would do something similar. But one thing I do is inspect the shaft bores and if I see anything dubious I gently reem them. I do this with a length of Al rod about 10mm dia . Cut a slit in it at one end, about 1" long, with a small hacksaw blade. Then cut a 1" strip of fine grade wet/dry and wrap it around the rod - putting one end in the slit. Make the strip long enough so it all just fits in the bore. You wrap it in a direction so the loose tail of the strip follows the direction you turn the rod. Insert the other end of rod in your power drill and away you go. Does a nice job of cleaning any imperfection. I haven't had any leak on me. So far.
Enjoying your build. You are doing a nice job and should get a lot of personal satisfaction when it first fires up.
Regards
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 08-24-2016, 01:07 PM
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Back at it today after 3 mos. After a session in the blaster with some black beauty and then hit them with a twisted wire cup brush they look great. Too bad they won't stay this pretty.





Old 11-26-2016, 05:43 PM
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Looks so cool,what if u had it ceramic coated,i am sure it would out last any fizz can?

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Old 11-27-2016, 04:24 PM
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Thanks, Jet Hot would be nice but I'll just leave them bare. I can always take them off and clean them up again after several years but I doubt that will happen. The only time I'll see them is during an oil change but I just couldn't slap those ratty old headers on to a pristine new engine.
Old 11-28-2016, 05:43 AM
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Get yourself a couple cans of LPS Cold Galvanize. Works fantastic on exhaust stuff. I've painted exhaust pipes and mufflers with it and it holds up fantastic.

http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/613

Try your local Ace Hardware or of course find it cheaper somewhere online like Amazon. Last time I ordered it online I got it from Grainger. But I think they were selling it clearance because I don't see it listed on their site any longer.

Here's some pics of header extensions I painted with LPS. Held up to the high heat of running hard on the track. Much better than the BS "ceramic" paint that was applied to the headers by OBX




Just know that the paint needs to heat cure, similar to VHT paint. Point being is that the LPS seems like it hasn't adhered well after it's dried for a few days. Pretty easy to scrape it off with a fingernail not long after it's dried. But get some heat on it and it hardens to become very durable. I painted a factory banana muffler from an '87 with LPS almost 15 years ago. It was the original muffler and had moderate surface rust on it. I wire wheeled it and cleaned it up as best as I could by hand. Still looks great.
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Old 11-28-2016, 08:51 AM
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I guess I should have said they are 304 stainless, I don't want any coating on them. 304 will discolor and stain with heat but any coating will just make it more of a PITA to clean them up again. If anyone wants to do this to their SS headers just be sure to use a STAINLESS wire brush in the grinder. Carbon steel will embed iron in the stainless and it will rust. Ask me how I know. If by chance that happens the iron can be removed from the stainless by scrubbing with a scotchbrite and oxalic acid - Bar Keepers Friend works great.
Old 11-28-2016, 09:52 AM
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These headers have two potential failure points. They tack the front and middle primary tube together during fabrication and they weld the WG support to the primary tube right below the head flange. Since the tubes move relative to each other as they heat up that tack weld can eventually pull out from one of the tubes. The solution is to cut the weld so the tubes can move without causing stress on the tube wall at the tack weld. Welding the WG support to the primary causes the same problem. As the tube grows with exhaust temp it puts stress on the tube wall right at the hottest point on the primary tube where the yield strength of the stainless is the lowest. The solution is to cut off the WG support and attach it to the head flange. I welded the other end to the same point it was attached on the WG tube, it doesn't get as hot as the primary tube so should be OK. I could have welded it to the WG flange I guess, time will tell.



Old 11-30-2016, 11:19 AM
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I made up spacers to go under the nuts. This makes it easier to get at the nuts and also provides a way to save from having to break off the stud if a nut is rusted to the stud so bad that it can't be removed. If that happens this makes it possible to cut the nut and end of the stud off and have enough stud left to thread a nut on again. Copper plated nuts and never-seize work well though so hopefully that won't ever be necessary.



Old 11-30-2016, 11:30 AM
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I don't need those big ugly heat vents so I made a block off for the driver side instead of just capping the stock one. I'll spray it with VHT satin black and bake it. Once baked that stuff is a very durable paint, no need for $$$$ powder coat.






Old 12-06-2016, 08:41 PM
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^^^

Very nice, free hand craftsmanship with that air block, but --->


Quote:
Originally Posted by boosted79 View Post
This makes it easier to get at the nuts . . .




Old 12-06-2016, 10:48 PM
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