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Bosch didn't use it so why should I? I'd rather take the chance of it leaking than getting that crap on anything inside. It is a real pain if you have to take it apart with that stuff. If it leaks I'll be forced to use it.
Old 01-18-2017, 05:23 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #101 (permalink)
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The Salvox rebuild instructions said to use sealant when I rebuilt cast iron fuel heads with the stainless steel diaphram.
Later ones with the rubber diaphram go together dry other than a little oil on the o-rings so they slide into place.
Just keep sealant away from the control pressure pin hole orifice in the stainless diaphrams.
Old 01-18-2017, 06:32 PM
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I've got the Salvox kit but am reusing the original diaphram. I'll try it dry first, just don't see the need for it if it wasn't used originally. The faces of the two halves are like new, if they were corroded at all I'd use the shellac. Right now I'm trying to find an M15 DIN472 internal circlip after the original went flying into never-never land.
Old 01-18-2017, 07:14 PM
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I hate when that happens.

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Old 01-19-2017, 09:50 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #104 (permalink)
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I had my fuel head apart at least twice. Put back together with no sealant - no leaks. I would not use sealant unless you have to. ie if it has an issue after re assembly, maybe. other than that, why would you? much easier to work on later IF you have to.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 01-19-2017, 11:04 AM
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I would do whatever the factory did.

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Old 01-19-2017, 12:09 PM
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BP8's with filed ground strap gapped at .035. Should be good for an extra 25hp!
Old 01-20-2017, 03:15 AM
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All dressed up but nowhere to go..








Up next, the crash box
Old 01-24-2017, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boosted79 View Post
BP8's with filed ground strap gapped at .035. Should be good for an extra 25hp!
6x 25 = 150hp extra. :-) Impressive. I'll take 12.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 01-24-2017, 04:36 PM
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If you going to tackle the g/box you need one special tool - a looong socket basically - about 18" long from memory. What I did was buy said normal socket, cut in half thru the waist, weld one end on each end of appropriate sized galv pipe. It slips over a shaft and has a nut at end of shaft to undo/torque.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 01-24-2017, 04:39 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #110 (permalink)
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Thanks Alan, I'll probably have some questions once I get it apart. I assume you replaced some synchro's?
Old 01-25-2017, 04:56 AM
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Correct.
There is a good thread if you search "Can't shift in to first" by rcecale.
I basically followed that for my 930 box rebuild - altho the thread is for a 915 box.
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Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 01-25-2017, 09:06 AM
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All cleaned up, ready for new parts. I can't believe what these parts cost, an M22 can be rebuilt with bearings for a little more than the price of a slider for one of these. If you're gonna play, ya gotta pay. The dogs look pretty good except #3 which is starting to hook. I'll do 1-4 syncro rings, both sliders and #3 dog ring. I'm coming to the conclusion that the pinion shaft nut is NLA?



Hard to believe all the torque goes thru these little teeth, there is strength in numbers.


1-2 slider


Last edited by boosted79; 01-28-2017 at 10:28 AM..
Old 01-27-2017, 09:58 AM
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Pinion shaft lock nut is still available as far as I can see. P/N 930.302.453.00 still shows up in dealer site part number lookup. You can reuse these nuts too. I've heard pros like Gary Fairbanks reuse these types of nuts all the time.

Take a good look at the ball bearings behind the retainer/tensioning plate that secures the stack to the diff housing. Those are the ones that seem to get beat up the most. Often times you can clearly see if they're badly worn on the small-ish outer races that the balls ride on.

I stole this picture from California Motorsports (californiamotorsports.net) and it's a bit extreme but still shows what i'm referring to. The badly pitted "collar" is the outer race that rides against the balls contained in the brass cage. I would replace a bearing that shows a lot of graying & a bit of texture on the outer races.

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Old 01-27-2017, 10:59 AM
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That nut isn't available here and I looked at a couple dealers and it said currently unavailable but I did find one at one place - $99 I'll reuse the old one. The pinion support bearing really feels smooth as does the mainshaft, I guess I should remove the plate just to make sure, it's only a few nuts. This is an easy gearbox to work on. Setting up the R&P is whole 'nother ball game, certainly not like a Ford 9" or Dana. I would not even begin to attempt it just based on reading the shop manual.

Last edited by boosted79; 01-27-2017 at 01:45 PM..
Old 01-27-2017, 01:36 PM
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Get in touch with Roger at CMS and see what he says about the pinion shaft nut. Super nice guy and very helpful with the DIY guys. He'll probably send one out to you just for asking.
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Old 01-27-2017, 01:58 PM
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OK thanks. I'll ask his opinion on welding the dog ring to the gear also. I read one thread where a couple guys said that after a new ring is pressed on it should be welded to the gear to prevent it backing off and CMS can do that. I can see where the gear was staked at the factory and where I could put a few TIG tacks, just wondering if this is really needed for a street car? I'll probably cut the old ring off in the lathe and then do the heat/freeze to install the new ring.
Old 01-27-2017, 02:57 PM
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Re. welding the dog ring to the gear, it looks like this may be req'd as a result of pressing the old ring off and pressing the new one on w/o heating resulting in a loose fit. Best way is to get the old one off with a cut off tool and chisel and then heat the new ring and freeze the gear before pressing on, then the original OD of the gear is unaffected and has the necessary shrink fit. Similar to what can happen to those expensive aluminum banana arms when new races are pressed in w/o heating the arm.
Old 01-28-2017, 10:25 AM
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Yes, I never welded mine. But I cut the old ones off with a cutting wheel on my angle grinder, from memory, and finished off with a dremel cutting wheel. Surgical job - just to leave enough material so you don't cut into the shaft, then cold chisel into the gap and ping it apart. Then re fit with heat/cold as described above. Mine are still holding up after several yrs on the track.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 01-28-2017, 11:33 AM
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Yes I agree the way to get the teeth off is a careful cut and smack to release the press fit. Pressing the old teeth off with the SIR tool like the one shown below (P223 and P224 are the tool numbers for 930 gears) tends to mess with the tight fit of the teeth on the gear hub.



I think this press fit disturbance is a valid concern because I have noticed varying degrees of grip by the teeth on the gears. On some old junk gears, i've been able to press off old teeth with a strong Wilton shop vise. I place some spacers and protective material in the jaws and i've been able to pull the teeth off 915 gears this way. Some took a lot of effort (no cheater bar placed on the vise handle) and they pop off. Others slid off the gear rather easily.

So my point is I think it's a good idea to preserve the precision of the gear's hub splines and cut the teeth off. Installation is very easy. Heat the teeth up in a toaster oven to 250-300F and they drop right onto a frozen gear.
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Last edited by KTL; 01-30-2017 at 11:21 AM.. Reason: edit........ whoops forgot the picture
Old 01-30-2017, 11:20 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #120 (permalink)
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