fuel leak

[jbrown]

Did a hargett shifter upgrade, havent driven my car for about 3 months. Now when I start it I have gas in the tunnel were the shifter linkage is. What did I do or is there a fuel line in there. Thanks John

[jbrown]

ok found the problem. I mounted a plate where the original shiftier was and there is a fuel line in there. Unfortunately I screwed threw it. It is hard to replace. Anyone no part number...
Thanks John

[kenikh]

Tunnel line? Ugh. PIA.

I forgot who makes them. Search "tunnel fuel line". He recently retired, but I think he is still making the lines.

[jbrown]

Yes I need the new lines . anyone no where I can get them. thanks John

[Jeff NJ]

His screen name is boxsterGT. His name is Len.

He made me fuel lines for my 930 including the tunnel lines and has done the same for many Pelicans too. Highly recommended.

[kenikh]

Len Cummings. My brain fart.

[jbrown]

Originally Posted by kenikh

Len Cummings. My brain fart.

I sent him a private message. hope he is still around

[Ronnie's.930]

Originally Posted by jbrown

I sent him a private message. hope he is still around

He is and posts regularly in the 911 forum. He always says that he doesn't do PMs and asks for contact at this email address -

Len at Autosportengineering dot com

[onboost]

Originally Posted by jbrown

Yes I need the new lines . anyone no where I can get them. thanks John

You can still get these new from Porsche. Purchased a set a month and a half ago for an early Carrera restoration. And if I recall, through the tunnel lines are the same for the 930.

[mackjackson]

I'm new to this forum and my opinion is to purchase new one.

[dap930]

The factory tunnel lines have a 90* bend at the front where they exit the front of the tunnel. There is a hose bard inserted at this bend that convents the polyamide over to the rubber hose that goes to the fuel pump discharge banjo if it is the pressure line or the rubber hose return that connects to the fuel tank. To change either of these you have to connect a pull line to the rear of the tunnel line so when you pull the old line from the front of the tunnel, it pulls the pull line through the tunnel. There are rubber grommets around the tunnel lines at he front and rear of the tunnel that need to be removed. You connect the rear end of the new line to the pull line and use the pull line to drag the new fuel line aft through the tunnel. It usually gets hung up while traveling along the way.

You will need access to the tunnel openings which means one seat removal, console removal, shifter removal and lifting the front tunnel carpeting. There two metal tabs, one forward, one aft that need bent back that capture the fuel lines at the front and rear of the tunnel.

If you use Len's tunnel lines, installation is somewhat easier because instead of there being a 90* bend at the front of the tunnel line, he installs a 14mm male connector fitting, exactly like the one at the rear of the tunnel line. He has separate pressure or return rubber lines that connect to the front end of the tunnel lines. This allows you to connect the new tunnel line to the rear of the old tunnel line with a special coupling he provides. When you pull the old line out from the front, it pulls in the new line at the same time. Len has options for standard rubber hoses or stainless braided rubber hoses, all are ethanol compatible. I am not sure if the factory replacement rubber hoses are ethanol compatible.

Do a search on Pelican, there are threads about doing this job.

[jbrown]

Originally Posted by dap930

The factory tunnel lines have a 90* bend at the front where they exit the front of the tunnel. There is a hose bard inserted at this bend that convents the polyamide over to the rubber hose that goes to the fuel pump discharge banjo if it is the pressure line or the rubber hose return that connects to the fuel tank. To change either of these you have to connect a pull line to the rear of the tunnel line so when you pull the old line from the front of the tunnel, it pulls the pull line through the tunnel. There are rubber grommets around the tunnel lines at he front and rear of the tunnel that need to be removed. You connect the rear end of the new line to the pull line and use the pull line to drag the new fuel line aft through the tunnel. It usually gets hung up while traveling along the way.

You will need access to the tunnel openings which means one seat removal, console removal, shifter removal and lifting the front tunnel carpeting. There two metal tabs, one forward, one aft that need bent back that capture the fuel lines at the front and rear of the tunnel.

If you use Len's tunnel lines, installation is somewhat easier because instead of there being a 90* bend at the front of the tunnel line, he installs a 14mm male connector fitting, exactly like the one at the rear of the tunnel line. He has separate pressure or return rubber lines that connect to the front end of the tunnel lines. This allows you to connect the new tunnel line to the rear of the old tunnel line with a special coupling he provides. When you pull the old line out from the front, it pulls in the new line at the same time. Len has options for standard rubber hoses or stainless braided rubber hoses, all are ethanol compatible. I am not sure if the factory replacement rubber hoses are ethanol compatible.

Do a search on Pelican, there are threads about doing this job.

have been working with Len. should have all the lines Thursday... Then the job begins.

[Jeff NJ]

Originally Posted by jbrown

have been working with Len. should have all the lines Thursday... Then the job begins.

I replaced all my lines last winter. The tunnel lines were the easiest part. The front lines going to the tank and pump over the steering rack were the biggest pita for me. Of course, my motor was out, so that helped. Good luck!