part help needed - unusual pressure pipe seal
 

Hello All,

Newbie 930 owner here, MY84, gray market, mostly stock car. I will do the needful and post a proper introduction and photos soon.

For now, I need to locate the seal for my lower pressure pipe flange...see photos...it is a wide seal which fits side the pressure pipe and outside the top of the turbo. There is no groove on the top of the turbo for a sealing ring. The part of the pressure tube with the casting numbers sits over the top of the turbo and the 1" wide seal fits between them. If you can identify my turbo base on the crappy photo, please let me know.

Best,

Ravihttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1456797560.jpg
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Ravi and I have been picking the collective brains of PNW owners and mechanics on this one. No one knows.

BTW, I take full credit as the bad influence that finally pushed you over the edge to buy a 930. :D

I would be willing to bet Kenik's ballsack that the black seal in the pic is a "make it work" solution that someone used in the past in order to make a K27 work with the OEM 930 up-pipe (rather than use the more common aluminum adapter that uses two o'rings). That looks like a shock or strut bushing to me . . .

Ronnie, Walker just confirmed your evaluation. But I'm sure you know the adapter by another name.

Maybe a cawk ring?!?!?! :eek:

Here's what it looks like (for the newbeeee OP). :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382812594.jpg

That'll cinch up nice into your high pressure fitting. With a little silicone lube, you wouldn't even need the spare red o-ring, as rumor has it yours still has lots of mileage left.

^^^

It would fall into the ginormous hole in my high pressure fitting, bub!!!

I forgot you've got a k36 hotside intake

No "intake" here - maybe yer thinking of Paul?!?!?! :eek:

Yes the turbo in the picture (K27?) is missing the outlet boss with o-ring. The turbo up-pipe seals against that o-ring. Adapters use two O-rings, the second one seals against the turbo cold air outlet. The standard adapters I have used in the past are a smidge too tall for use with aftermarket intercoolers resulting in the top hitting the deck lid. Stock intercoolers have a rubber air dam that smashes down so not such an issue. Some time ago I took our standard adapter and re-designed it to be the same height as the boss on a 3LDZ. They fit much better.

What you've got is a piece of melted/deformed hardware store plumbing rubber. I will admit, and this won't surprise some of you, that I did something similar way back when I first acquired a 7006 turbo and did not at the time have the proper adapter. It worked in a pinch but could not stand up to the heat. Without the nice machined aluminum adapter, a person can use a high temp silicone coupler if you can find one of the right dimensions.

Thanks for helping me sort this out. I'll get Brian's ring....I mean adapter! And report back.

Good call

Sunlion, I hear that Kenik has some "rings" you can use (sez they slip off too easily :eek:)!

http://www.simplyrealmoms.com/wp-con...s1-500x669.jpg

A chew can is always more than a mouthful

I hear that Norm is the expert on ^^^ so will defer to him for judgement!!! :eek:

when i saw the two rubber rings in a bag at the top of the page i knew it would eventually go here... lol.

silicone heater hose and a couple hose clamps works too.

Ravi needed a proper initiation

The flare on the end prevents use of silicone heater hose and clamps......http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1456938112.jpg

Cut the flare off and the bottom of the Charge pipe and then the bottom of it has the same OD as the outlet of the turbo.

Then sell the aluminum thing and it's silly o rings that will always leak no matter how much you want to think they won't.
They do leak, I've seen proof of it years ago when I had a turbo that was blowing oil mist with the compressed air.

After cutting the bottom flare off a 3 to 4 inch long 2" ID piece of reinforced multi ply silicone heater hose with a couple hose clamps works perfect and flows air better than the aluminum o ring adapter thing. The hose is also flexible so it makes lining up the top of the charge pipe with after market intercoolers much easier.

Great idea. Thanks. I'm on it today. Where would I find 2 inch multi ply silicone heater hose - auto parts store, or lover's pantry?

I cut mine off

Bernie has the band saw and the hose

Ahh.....Bernie's Pantry!

I buy it locally at a hydraulic supply place here in west palm beach that also has every type of hose made and it's made in the USA.

If you can't find it locally or don't know where to look ebay comes to mind. There are a lot of places online that sell it so do a search but prices will be all over the place if you don't know where to look.
I think I paid around $2 for a 3" long piece of 2" ID USA made multi ply silicone heater hose. It comes in blue usually but the performance auto supply places usually have it in black or red or whatever. Only thing is the stuff the performance auto supply places have is usually made in China and sometimes it is thinner wall hose with fewer nylon plys than what you get from a hydraulic supply store which should have thicker wall sturdier hose made in USA

Speaking of cutting it off......reminds me of a patient back in med school in Bako.......he tied a string around it to cut it off because it kept attacking him....not a good ending for him, unfortunately he succeeded :(

Dude - no more medical stories.

Why not just get the adapter?

I have a piece of never used 2" ID 3 ply blue silicone hose that's 7.5" long I'm not using. I bought it off the for sale forum around 8 years ago and I don't know where it was made but it's new hose in good condition. I think I paid $10 plus shipping for it and I would sell it for that.
A friend owns this online store and he has it like this and in other colors, lengths, etc.

silicone hose coupler

Measure how long a piece you would need because this one is 3" long and you may want to have 3.5" or 4" or whatever looks and fits best end to end.

Is this the schnit......http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1456945545.jpg

K-man, the adapter is on its way, was thinking the cutting and coupling might be a better, less leaky fix as someone mentioned above, plus, it gets me back on the road today!

Don't be so sensi poo Kenik!

Cutting has its own problems. You end up trying to mate a silicone pipe to a tapered surface. It's a beeotch to get seated right without machining the pipe after cutting.

If you want back on the road, just buy some metal HVAC tape and reinforce the seams with gaffer tape. Done.

That looks like it if it's 2" ID.
I've had no problem sliding the hose on to the bottom of the slightly tapered charge pipe an inch or so after cutting the bottom off and then putting a hose clamp or t-bolt clamp on each end of the hose. You can also smear a little vasaline or silicone lube on the ID to make it slide on easier.
No leaks at all if you snug down the hose clamps.

^ Agree - just don't cut it too short. And use high quality hose clamps.

The hose is 2 1/2".......searching for a smaller one now. Also, thinking about stacking a set of o rings inside the lower flange if the pipe to create the seal, lots of silicone grease and avoid cutting. Thoughts?

I ended up using O rings and installing the charge pipe without cutting it. Seems to fill the gap well, no side to side or up down play at the turbo outlet once the IC was snugged up. Lots of silicone grease too. The brown o rings you see in the photo have a high heat rating also. Now off for a test drive.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1456968124.jpg
It

Does the top of the turbo outlet seat against the metal flange surface inside the uppipe?

According to my flashlight check, it does. Say it didn't, but was against the O rings, what to do anticipate happening - leakage, no boost?

I just think an unanchired o ring is not a good thing. Just wanted to make sure all of the o rings were seated on the turbo to ensure no loose bits in the IC.

Agreed. I'll double check tomorrow.

Kenik and I did 150 miles today to Mt.Vernon, Wa and back - car drove well, made spec boost when called for, held boost nicely, so no leaks. Need to get the low end performance improved, but that's fodder for another thread.