79 #610 Winter Projects. Advise Needed

[1979-930]

^^^ No. But I did a search on NASA for Certified Tech Inspection Shops. I found one nearby and he referred me to a IPB Autosport in Sacramento. The owner Ron is a SCCA racer and is more than happy to help set my car up. He is familiar with the 930 differences and sounded excited for me to bring it in. I also found a place that will rent me the scales for $80 a day. I may do that just to check the results.

[1979-930]

I installed the gauges and added the classic white led lights while I was in there. The other three need to be pulled apart and cleaned now to match the speedo and clock. That will have to wait.



Whether it's what others do or not. I painted the raw aluminum threads on the RSR's. They would just oxidize anyway. I wanted to add a mount for the brake line so I went to PickNPull today. I found a ABS line clip on an import that clipped to the strut. And knowing Ford uses bolt on brake line mounts I found one on a Explorer that would work. A little cutting and welding and I have a clip on brake line mount. I still need to paint it.







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[1979-930]

Struts are installed. I'm still waiting on the missing spacer for the right front and the calipers. They should be here next week
If the spacer takes too long I'll just stack some washers temporarily. It's coming from Germany.
Im going to pack the bearings and install the rotors this weekend.

I have a couple oil leaks to fix. Both tank hoses and the sender gasket are seeping. I need to check and adjust the valves. First time doing that, on a Porsche, so it will be a little slow going. I purchased the feelers for the backside method. It looked the easiest to me.




My brake line clip.



And to prove to my brother from another mother I do pay attention




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[Rawknees'Turbo]

No surprise that the "backside method" would catch your leering eye, Deez!

All joking aside, it is far easier to measure lash that way, than the conventional way using the special feeler blade tool. Mainly, you just have to get clear in your mind how to insert the feeler blades (exhaust measured from above and intake from below . . . opposite, in other words), and make sure you are actually on TDC of the compression stroke for the cylinder you are working on, and then it will be smooth sailing from there (with practice, obviously).

Also keep in mind that the factory lash clearance is .004" plus/minus .002, so in other words, there is a fairly broad range to work with and no need to get all OCD trying to get every valve at .004.

More than likely, you will only find that a few of them need to be adjusted in order to stay within that range, and I am a firm believer in leaving well enough alone if no adjustment is necessary. BUTT that said, if I find any that are .002, I adjust them, since the lash narrows with use and if the starting point is .002, that means it won't be too long before it would need to be slackened.


PS - nice job making those brake line supports.

PSS - ohhhhhh just saw the oil choice - you are a wise man! Did you hide the receipt from your wifey ?!?!

[1979-930]

^^^ No need to hide receipts. That there is Diesel oil for this.




Actually Cycle Gear here in town stocks it for $71 ea.

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[Rawknees'Turbo]

^^^

Too funny about the earth mover oil!

As a future FYI, Amazon usually has the best price, but I see currently it is only a savings of $4 per jug under what you paid, plus maybe places won't ship oil like that to Cali?

[1979-930]

Yea. This state sucks. Checking out vacation/ retirement places in Galveston this summer.


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[1979-930]

I can't win!!! I'm still waiting on brake calipers so I thought I would set the ride height. I set the car down and the left front was setting really high and would not go down. It felt like it was binding or bottoming out. The rear was way too low. So I pulled the rear torsion bars and did the one tooth counter clock one tooth clockwise dance and got the rear set. I'm within 1/4" height of what I want.
I moved to the front and couldn't see what was binding. Back apart with it and found the strut bottoms out after 2.25".
I'm stuck again needing a left strut!




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[1979-930]

I switched to replacing the two rear oil lines to the tank yesterday. The two fittings at the thermostat were a pain. Heat did not even work on them. I had to carefully cut the nut with a die grinder and split it.
While working on it I noticed the oil line brackets and bolts along the rocker are missing. Probably vibrated off over the years or another item that was not put back together after the repaint. Looking at the PET there is a bracket and spacer. I'm 99% sure the order is line/bracket/spacer. Can anyone confirm the order the parts are installed or take a picture please.
Also if it's not too much trouble how thick the spacer is. I don't want to spend $6.25 per spacer for something Lowes has for $.50.

[Rawknees'Turbo]

^^^

Yo' bisch - the spacers are 15mm thick and have an OD of 20mm . . . no doubt very common at Ace, etc. and a total joke that they cost $6.25 from Porsche.

You have the order of assemble right - from the rocker, it is "spacer, bracket, oil pipe" (same as what you typed butt you started with the tub rather than the rocker).


PS - amazing how the shop doing your struts has had such a difficult time executing the basics - hard to excuse weak-sauce stuff like that.

[1979-930]

^^^ I knew you'd come through. Thanks again. I feel like this thread is one big PM.

Steve has a really good reputation. Even the guys at Elephant said good things. This shart is normal for me. I'm a Duck shart slides right off.



I had to order them from Grainger to get the proper size. But it was $ 3.71 for a pack of 10. Free Pick-up at the local store.


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[Rawknees'Turbo]

***forum bromancing the sheep***

[1979-930]

^^^ Ha. Bromancing the Sheep.
I'm not giving you a ride in Pepe my little Mule...

[1979-930]

While waiting for another strut insert I removed the rear condenser again and installed the fan. I need to get a fuse and relay. But that is the easy part.



The strut insert and spacers came in today. I installed them tonight, but I did not have time to set ride height. I think I'm close. So I'll wait for the calipers. Unless those don't get here by Saturday.

Special spacers. Large one goes between the pan and guard. Small one goes between the guard and condenser guard.




Third times a charm???




So moving to valve adjustment. I have the air cleaner and intercooler off for shock access.
It looks like the right side is accessible. But I think I need to remove this to access the left side?



Any other pointers on what I need to remove? Tips or tricks??


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[Rawknees'Turbo]

Deez, removing the secondary intake manifold (aka - recirculation valve housing, aka #2 - blow off valve housing), which you have pictured above, makes all the difference in the world for access and well worth the effort. There is an orange silicone o-ring that seals the manifold to the throttle body - would be good to replace it or at least have a new one there if it tears. It is slightly larger than the intercooler o-ring on that side, and different part number, but in a pinch, the intercooler o-ring can be used.

When you reinstall the manifold, use some of yer handy anti-seize (saw a bottle of it in one of your pics - right next to the giant jug of KY ) on all the fastener threads, and some silicone grease on all o-rings and also hose fittings, such as the brake booster hose and also the hose that goes from the spout on the BOV cap and the manifold.

The spout on the BOV cap is a known air leaker, so now would be a good time to seal the seam where it is pressed into the cap with some JB Weld - works great there.

Also, you could replace the wax o-ring type seals that go beneath each cap (they dry out and essentially disappear - another known air leakage spot).

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Another tip (just the) - removing that manifold is much easier if you also loosen the silicone coupler on the compressor intake; that allows the metal elbow pipe to move around enough to make removing and installing the manifold much easier.


Also, with everything cleared out of the way, check to see if all of the primary intake manifold nuts are tight (they are known to loosen up when the injector blocks age, and then leak air bigtime).

[1979-930]

Are these the items you are referencing? Is the seal on both sides of the intercooler the same? I can't find the seal in the PET that goes on the recirculation valve side.





And keep your Eye off my KY.

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Here is the part number for the o-ring that goes on the throttle body and is the seal between it and the reciculation valve housing - 99970147740 It is a slightly different size than the two, larger intercooler o-rings (a little bit bigger).

Yes to the JB Weld spout in your pic.

Yes to question about intercooler o-rings (three of the same size - two on throttle body side and one on up-pipe. There is also a smaller one where the up-pipe connects to the compressor outlet.

Yeppers to wax seals for end caps.

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Another just the tip - when you have that manifold out of the way, you'll be able to see all of the throttle components up there, so is a good time to inspect the bushings on the linkage bracket (see if they are still present and in one piece), and then lube all of the moving parts (with something other than yer trusty KY).

You can also verify that the throttle plate is actually going WFO with the pedal depressed and adjust it if needed.

[1979-930]

The PET actually has a different part number for the seal at the lower connection to the intercooler riser pipe. 999 701 469 40 for the upper and 473 40 for the lower