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Jeff NJ's Avatar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo View Post
^^^

Good idea, Jeff - have never heard of it before, butt with a bottle neck and stopper like that , it has to be good!

If Deez sends one, I will probably have to hose the neck/knob down with hydrogen peroxide before touching it!!!
Individually signed and numbered bottles.

Now that I think of it, this is probably too good for you!

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Old 05-26-2017, 05:10 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #361 (permalink)
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I remember that your switch is on the dryer, correct? If so, that is far away from the compressor, and since the switch is on the highside circuit, 115 is not near enough to trigger it. You probably can't add enough pressure statically, so are going to have to jumper the switch with a simple wire.

Jumper the switch, add some refrigerant with the compressor pumping (just a little - a minute or two), stop and put the switch back in play and see if it is now triggered. Repeat as necessary.

PS - you can verify the switch is triggered or not by testing it for continuity - don't need to keep putting the socket on and off, in other words.

Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 05-26-2017 at 05:18 PM..
Old 05-26-2017, 05:12 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #362 (permalink)
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Jeff, I don't think you are concerned about the taste of the Tequila, or even if the bottle has any in it when you buy it; you put that bisch, sideways, up a certain area of your person, bub!!!
Old 05-26-2017, 05:22 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #363 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1979-930 View Post
How many psi to get the switch on the dryer to open? I'm at 115 psi and it won't trigger the relay.
I already verified everything else works.


Edit
So something is effed. I bypassed the pressure switch and the compressor and all fans kicked on. The problem is the high side will not come off zero. The low side got to 120psi I have no idea what would cause that.

But how am I supposed to get high side readings with the valve closed?


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Deez - the valve on the compressor service port for the high side is supposed to be open, butt the highside valve on the manifold is supposed to be closed. That way you can read system pressure, butt no refrigerant enters the system from the highside (would be bad for the compressor if it did).
Old 05-26-2017, 05:38 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #364 (permalink)
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Well I pick up the alignment stuff in the am. So I'll have to leave the system closed off until I'm done with that.
I did bypass the pressure switch and let it run for 3 to 5 min and the high side was still at zero.
The service port is open and the manifold is closed.
I'll mess with it tomorrow or Sunday.


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Old 05-26-2017, 05:52 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #365 (permalink)
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The only way that the highside can be a zero, (if the hose, manifold, etc. arrangement is correct) is if you have a major blockage in the system - such as a cap or plug that you accidentally left on one of your new components, or the gauge set is malfunctioning.

When refrigerant is added through the low side, even a very small amount, and the compressor is not running, the low and high side pressures read the same (the pressure in the system equalizes). This takes place even in a fully charged and functioning system (once the refrigerant has cooled down to ambient temp, if the system had just been used).

So in other words, when adding refrigerant statically to the low side, if the high side gauge doesn't read accordingly (even with compressor not running) then you know right then that you have a problem.

I hope I'm wording that in a way that makes sense - sometimes difficult to understand when you're brand spankin' new to this stuff.
Old 05-26-2017, 06:04 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #366 (permalink)
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A troubleshooting and general info TIP (just the) -

You can remove the gauge set and hoses from a closed system, and them re-attach them at a later point, without disturbing the vacuum or charge. You do this in the following manner . . .

1) Attach hoses to service ports but do not open the service port valves.
2) Attach yellow hose to vac pump and turn pump on.
3) Open manifold valves - both high and low side (but leave the service port valves closed). The vac pump will instantly draw a vacuum on the manifold and its hoses.
4) After a short amount of time, close the manifold valves and open the service port valves (you will then see pressure or vac readings).
5) Remove the vac pump, attach yellow hose to refrigerant tank, purge the yellow hose and manifold of air (like before) and you're good to go.

PS - always remember to keep the high side manifold valve closed when charging.
Old 05-26-2017, 06:37 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #367 (permalink)
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A suggestion - before taking things apart looking for a blockage, verify that the high side gauge is working - remove the red hose and hit the inlet with your air compressor. Also make sure the red hose is not plugged or collapsed inside, and that its service port valve is actually working (it simply pushes the service port Shrader valve down with a rod when you tighten the knob clockwise)

Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 05-26-2017 at 07:16 PM..
Old 05-26-2017, 06:50 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #368 (permalink)
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79 #610 Winter Projects. Advise Needed

I understand. I'll check the gauge first. I blew out all the hoses, condensers and evaporator prior to installing. the receiver dryer or compressor is the only possible blockage.
I hope it's the gauge.


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Old 05-26-2017, 07:21 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #369 (permalink)
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79 #610 Winter Projects. Advise Needed

Ok now I'm confused. Look at the directions on the gauge box. They have to be wrong. If not theses are the worst gauges ever.
They show the blue hose connected to the red high side valve and gauge and the red hose connects to the blue low side knob and gauge.
That can't be correct. The vacuum gauge is supposed to be on the low side, correct?



Maybe someone assembled the set incorrectly?

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Old 05-26-2017, 07:44 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #370 (permalink)
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^^^

Yep - E and G are mislabeled (reversed). Whata' joke!

Yes - negative pressure (vac) scale is on lowside gauge only.

*** regardless of the hose color (which is just a way to help keep things organized), the lowside gauge hose has a fitting on it that only fits the lowside service port, as does the highside hose (the fittings are not interchangeable, as I'm sure you've noticed, bisch).

Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 05-26-2017 at 08:49 PM..
Old 05-26-2017, 07:50 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #371 (permalink)
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I just re-read where you said that the lowside gauge went as high as 120 - was that with the compressor on and the lowside manifold valve closed?

If so, that is not good since even if the lowside pressure reaches 120 during static charge, if all is well, it drops very quickly once the compressor starts pumping.
Old 05-26-2017, 08:00 PM
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"I understand. I'll check the gauge first. I blew out all the hoses, condensers and evaporator prior to installing. the receiver dryer or compressor is the only possible blockage. "

Even if the drier or condensers are totally plugged you should still read pressure on the high side gauge assuming your high side service port is on the compressor like they usually are. Any blockage will result in high high side pressure and low low side since the gas can't return to the compresser suction. Most likely something screwed up with the high side service port valve or Shrader valve like Rawknee said.
Old 05-27-2017, 07:13 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #373 (permalink)
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Deez, boosted is right - a blockage in the system is going to cause very high, highside pressure. My post earlier about that was wrong - sorry.

And yep - more than likely you have a problem with either the gauge set, the Shrader valve on the compressor, or operator error ().
Old 05-27-2017, 07:40 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #374 (permalink)
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79 #610 Winter Projects. Advise Needed

I got up at 6:30 to go pick up the alignment tools and scales.
I got back and checked the AC gauge. Bad gauges. But that doesn't explain why the compressor would not turn on. Unless the pressures were too high from the start. Doubt it but maybe. I'm sure I still have an issue.
One thing I saw watching videos to backup Rawknee is one shop said to turn the tank upside down when filling. I've never see that before.

So I need to get the alignment done today. I leveled the floor first and now have the scales set. I had to stop for breakfast. I couldn't think straight with the stomach cramps.







I have read to corner balance before aligning and to corner balance after. I'm just going to do both.

I had to carry myself to the garage. Whopping 170lbs




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Last edited by 1979-930; 05-28-2017 at 06:42 AM.. Reason: typos
Old 05-27-2017, 09:51 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #375 (permalink)
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79 #610 Winter Projects. Advise Needed

Not gonna lie. The alignment was difficult.
I ended up at -1* camber at all four. 2/32 total toe in front. Caster is 7* both sides.
Rear won't toe out. The closest I could get was 3/32" total toe in. 1/32 toe in left rear and 2/32 toe in right rear. Right rear would not get any closer. I gave up. Maybe an issue I need to revisit. I think I'm within specs.

Corner balance came in at 50.16% Close enough for the street.









Had to move the wheel a couple teeth to center. See the driver.





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Last edited by 1979-930; 05-28-2017 at 06:44 AM..
Old 05-27-2017, 06:34 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #376 (permalink)
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"one shop said to turn the tank upside down when filling"

That's how I do it too in the beginning while the motor is off.
After evacuating it for 3 hours I do the initial charge into the high side only with the tank upside down so liqued R134 is going in until no more is going in from the 30 pound bottle of R134 and the high and low side manifold gauge needles have stabilized.

Then close the high side valve, start the motor, turn on the AC, and charge with the tank right side up so R134 gas is going into the low side of the compressor. It won't hydrolock the compressor doing it this way and shops that know this do it to save time.

Getting the charge pressure just right with R134 is tricky because the high side pressure is so sensitive to temperature which raises a lot while doing the final charging with gas into the low side with the motor running. Getting it perfect is almost impossible so I just try to get it close.

Charging until the high and low pressures were just right with R12 in the old days was incredibly easy compared to R134. The little bubbles going by in the sight glass on the receiver dryer would disappear when the the high side pressure was correct with R12. You would get the coldest AC with R12 when the high side pressure was just a little on the low side.
Old 05-27-2017, 10:50 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #377 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1979-930 View Post
I got back and checked the gauge. Bad gauges. But that doesn't explain why the compressor would not turn on. Unless the pressures were too high from the star. Doubt it but maybe. I'm sure I still have an issue.
One thing I saw watching videos to backup Rawknee is one shop said to turn the tank upside down when filling. I've never see that before.
Deez, don't be too concerned about the pressure switch deal until after you have good gauges on the system and can take accurate pressure readings.

BTW - that pressure switch is on the highside (like most are - particularly old school systems like yours) - a common low pressure cut out spec is +/- 30 PSI and high pressure cutout is +/- 435 PSI . . . would be interesting to know exactly what yours is - maybe printed on the switch in tiny lettering?

My best gestimate from afar is that you don't have enough refrigerant in the system to activate the switch since it is so far away from the compressor.



The upside down tank deal is the liquid charging method - common for shops to do that because it saves time, but doesn't work any better than gas charging and is easier to make a mistake and damage the compressor in the process (compressor is not meant to compress liquid) . . . really not something for a hobbiest, and especially and a/c neebie , to consider messing with.

So my suggestion is to measure system pressures tomorrow (pulling a vacuum on the gauges as previously described, so you don't allow air to enter the system), and go from there with regard to trouble shooting the switch and/or the a/c system in general, ya' big, self aligning and corner balancing bisch!
Old 05-27-2017, 10:55 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #378 (permalink)
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Jim, stop trying to post at the same time as me , bro!
Old 05-27-2017, 10:58 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #379 (permalink)
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Where did you get the scales and alignment setup? You guys in Cali are lucky to have access to anything required for a gearhead's obsession.
Old 05-28-2017, 05:26 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #380 (permalink)
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