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Turbo Powered Snow Blower
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Rocklin, CA .... Galveston, TX
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Dumb question.
How do I find out what engine configuration I have. 930 - 60/61, 62/66, 63/64, or 65
I'm trying to get all the part numbers together to order fuel lines and there are two different sections in the PET.
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Derrick
Old 09-06-2017, 11:20 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #441 (permalink)
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Look on the right side of motor below the fan shroud strap next to oil pressure sender and there should be a stamp that will have 930/?. Not the engine date code that runs up the side but on the flat part (it could be covered with oil or dirt)
Old 09-06-2017, 11:50 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #442 (permalink)
Turbo Powered Snow Blower
 
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Thanks. I'll take a look when I get home.
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Old 09-06-2017, 12:31 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #443 (permalink)
Turbo Powered Snow Blower
 
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It’s winter again. We’ll as close as it gets to winter in CA. 62* and sunny. Time to pull the engine to get the trans rebuilt and change a couple things. I’m not sure I want to tackle the trans. They usually require several special tools.
I started pulling apart the top side of the engine to drop it. I think I have everything removed, that needs to be, from the top side. If I missed something let me know.
Intercooler, Two fuel lines. Two electrical connectors, AC compressor, and a couple breather tubes.

I’m not sure if this has to come off.




From the bottom will I need to remove any of the exhaust? Is it better to remove it now or after it’s out?


Sent from my iPhone while Driving
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Last edited by 1979-930; 12-12-2017 at 07:04 AM..
Old 12-11-2017, 08:46 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #444 (permalink)
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I remove the exhaust when it's out. That charge pipe will slide by the frame when lowering the motor.
Old 12-11-2017, 08:52 PM
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You could cut a piece of plastic out of an empty oil quart bottle or whatever and slide it between the air pipe and motor mount frame so it doesn't scratch the paint while lowering it
Old 12-11-2017, 09:07 PM
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Deez, what Jeff said, and also, don't forget to remove the speedometer sensor from the gearbox or you risk breaking the wires. Also take note of its orientation - if you install it backwards, it won't read the magnets (I wasted a bunch of time, and needlessly bought a new sensor, due to being a dumbass about that ).

Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 12-11-2017 at 09:13 PM..
Old 12-11-2017, 09:07 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #447 (permalink)
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Don't forget the reverse light wires off the g/box (opp side to speedo switch). Basically look at all the connections that feed to the engine - topside and underneath. Since you haven't done this before, assume you have missed something (g/box coupling in the rear tunnel cover, plus wires). Lower it out in small stages - see if anything is hanging up. Earth strap by trans mount.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 12-11-2017, 10:13 PM
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Good luck! It's always fun to do it the first time.
What caught my attention was all of the open holes....(openings to intercooler, turbo, throttle body, etc) plug these with paper towels or something before some little screw or nut disappears down the hole.Tag every wire, hose, put hardware in bags and label etc. Take lots of pictures, It will be easier to put it back if you know where everything goes.
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1981 SC Steel Widebody, DP Lid, 930/51 to 3.2l, K27 7006 Turbo, DOD, P&P Twin Plug heads, Twinfire Ignition, Ruf Intercooler, Powerhaus headers, Zork, CIS Euro FD, 009 injectors, 044 pump, BLwur, 930 4 sp LSD, Mocal 44 w/fan, LM2, Brembo, Retroair, Euromeisters
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Old 12-12-2017, 04:34 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #449 (permalink)
Turbo Powered Snow Blower
 
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Thanks guys! All great advise.
Thanks for the reminder about the coupling in the tunnel Allen. I forgot about that.
Are the speedometer and reverse light sensors on the side of the gearbox or hidden somewhere?
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Last edited by 1979-930; 12-12-2017 at 07:06 AM..
Old 12-12-2017, 07:03 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #450 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1979-930 View Post
Thanks guys! All great advise.
Thanks for the reminder about the coupling in the tunnel Allen. I forgot about that.
Are the speedometer and reverse light sensors on the side of the gearbox or hidden somewhere?
Passenger side of gearbox.
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1988 930 Venetian Blue
Old 12-12-2017, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Euro View Post
Good luck! It's always fun to do it the first time.
What caught my attention was all of the open holes....
Didn't even need to ply them with dinner, drinks and a movie, first?!?!?
Old 12-12-2017, 07:50 AM
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take some tye wraps and tie the e brake cable on the passenger side out if the way otherwise it will break your reverse light switch sticking out of the side of the tranny. i've broken several and they are not cheap.
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Old 12-12-2017, 07:50 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #453 (permalink)
Turbo Powered Snow Blower
 
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79 #610 Winter Projects. Advise Needed

I didnít have any spare time last night. I spent some time tonight and removed the shift coupler, drained oil and removed three oil lines.
How does a brand new oil cooler line installed last winter require a torch and all my strength to break loose? Removed starter cable, speed sensor and reverse sensor. The wires to the reverse broke just unplugging it.




Sway bar is off, ground strap, and throttle linkage. Should I remove the entire throttle linkage pivot?



I need to remove the axles. I just need to remove the diff side right??
I assume the rear bumper too. Can I remove the center bolt and strap from the bumper shocks, plate light wires and side accordion pieces and slide the bumper off that way??

Itís going good. I spend most my time looking and thinking about it. Between the two nights Iím about 3 hrs into it and should have it out in another 1-2hrs.


Sent from my iPhone while Driving
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Old 12-13-2017, 08:12 PM
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Deez,

Don't need to remove the throttle bell crank to drop the engine (or re-install it when the time comes), but will want to remove it prior to handing the gearbox over to a shop so it doesn't get damaged during transport or lost by the shop.

Yes - just unbolt the inner cv joints from the stub axles and then situate the axles (tie them up) so that they are out of the way as best you can.

Absolutely do not have to remove the rear bumper - just more needless work since you have a lift and no concerns about raised vehicle height.

About the oil hose fittings - I use anti-seize on any and all fittings (oil, fuel, brake lines, etc.) - really helps with disassembly at a later date.

Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 12-13-2017 at 08:58 PM..
Old 12-13-2017, 08:53 PM
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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A premature tip () regarding re-installing the engine/gearbox combo - it is very easy to crossthread the large bolts that secure the gearbox support bar to the tub (a big problem that means repairing the threads in the tub if it happens), so to prevent that, make sure that the four small nuts () that fasten the bar to the gearbox are loose while you thread the tub bolts in (having them loose means that the support bar is much more likely to self-align).


One more thing - take good pics of how the omega spring and release bearing arms are oriented before you take that stuff apart - really easy to get confused about the install and then spend a lot of time trying to find other peoples' pics and instructions. Also take a good pic of the way the clutch cable is routed - if put back wrong (wrong arch to it, etc.) you will have a violent shudder when rolling away in first gear that will make you wonder if you broke the crankshaft somehow!

Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 12-13-2017 at 09:08 PM..
Old 12-13-2017, 08:57 PM
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Turbo Powered Snow Blower
 
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The omega spring and release are the two arms and sprinngs for the clutch, correct? Should I take them off now to make sure they don't get damaged dropping the engine?
The muffler is close to the rear valance. So I thought the valance and bumper needed to come off to move the engine back far enough to lower down.
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Last edited by 1979-930; 12-13-2017 at 09:44 PM..
Old 12-13-2017, 09:42 PM
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The clutch cable must be disconnected, but the omega spring isn't required to come off. It wont get damaged.
Rear bumper and valence don't need to come off to drop the motor, especially if you have a lift. The muffler will sneak by the valence.
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Old 12-13-2017, 09:55 PM
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Yes, correct . . . I would leave the omega spring and release arms on - much easier to work with them when the box is out of the car (totally doable with box/engine installed, though, so doesn't matter much either way).

I removed the valance, as I was replacing it at the time (butt don't think it was necessary for engine drop), butt not the rear bumper - no harm in removing it if it will make things easier for you, though, bisch.


***Jeff squeaked in () ahead of me - slippery bastage!!!!!
Old 12-13-2017, 09:58 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #459 (permalink)
Turbo Powered Snow Blower
 
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Well I guess I just have the axles and four bolts left. Cool!


Edit. Only you are cool with sloppy seconds Raw.
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Old 12-13-2017, 09:59 PM
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