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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Join Date: Apr 2016
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^^^

Does your engine support bar have nuts on the bottom side (below the mounts), or is it the type that the mount bosses are threaded? If the threaded kind, the bolts tend to get stuck and then the bar bends when trying to loosen them with a ratchet - air impact a way better choice to prevent breaking/bending the bar at the ends.
Old 12-13-2017, 10:05 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #461 (permalink)
Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1979-930 View Post
!


Edit. Only you are cool with sloppy seconds Raw.
At least it wasn't thirds!
Old 12-13-2017, 10:09 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #462 (permalink)
Turbo Powered Snow Blower
 
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1 hr. Total of 4hrs. Not bad.
As Rawknee always says, Itís a lot bigger than I expected.




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Old 12-14-2017, 07:28 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #463 (permalink)
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Whatís not connected here?



Three of the intake to injector plates are wet. It looks like injectors are leaking at the copper washer. Should I be concerned that the intake gaskets are bad?





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Old 12-14-2017, 10:10 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #464 (permalink)
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If the injector copper gaskets are leaking you need to replace (Pelican should have them). On a general note, air leaks are verboten. A common place is the plastic injector blocks plus a zillion hoses and their connections - including the decel valve in an earlier pic. Once you think you have things sorted, you need to do a leak test. Then start over again :-) May seem the long way round, but trust me..
Regards
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 12-14-2017, 11:04 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #465 (permalink)
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I am replacing the injectors during this so those washers are on the list. I guess the intake gaskets just became the first of many ďwhile Iím in thereĒ items.


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Old 12-15-2017, 06:18 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #466 (permalink)
 
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^^^^
Tip: You'll find the part number of the injector stamped on the barrel of the injector.
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'85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau
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Old 12-15-2017, 07:37 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #467 (permalink)
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I had one injector that I didn't tighten up completely and air got by and caused a lean miss on that cylinder, but I never saw any evidence of fuel around it like that. Be sure to double check the connection between the lines and the top of the injectors, because that would certainly cause fuel to seep out if that were loose.
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Old 12-15-2017, 10:58 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #468 (permalink)
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I have the transmission removed and got it on the stand. I need to buy the correct size torx bit for the flywheel. I also need to dive into what I can get rid of and what I need to keep seeing that Iím going with the MSD ignition and long neck intercooler.



Chris. This is my pilot bearing style.




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Old 12-17-2017, 07:01 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #469 (permalink)
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79 #610 Winter Projects. Advise Needed

I soaked the exhaust bolts for four days and got everything off without breaking any studs. Three of the studs came out with the nuts. Iím spraying the studs for a few days before I try to remove them.



I got the correct star socket and removed the flywheel. I knew there was a leak, but itís not real clear that itís the seal. The upper case and around the crank looks ok. It seems the seal to the case is the leak. Maybe the case below the crank?? Or maybe itís just the result of the seal leak?





The crankcase vent hose is leaking and possibly , what I assume is, the oil pressure sender seals. Iím going to reseal everything back here.







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Last edited by 1979-930; 12-20-2017 at 10:15 PM..
Old 12-20-2017, 10:12 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #470 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1979-930 View Post
I soaked the exhaust bolts for four days and got everything off without breaking any studs. Three of the studs came out with the nuts. Iím spraying the studs for a few days before I try to remove them.



I got the correct star socket and removed the flywheel. I knew there was a leak, but itís not real clear that itís the seal. The upper case and around the crank looks ok. It seems the seal to the case is the leak. Maybe the case below the crank?? Or maybe itís just the result of the seal leak?





The crankcase vent hose is leaking and possibly , what I assume is, the oil pressure sender seals. Iím going to reseal everything back here.







Sent from my iPhone while Driving


Wow!!

You have a extreme opportunity to detail that engine, engine compartment!!




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Old 12-21-2017, 04:09 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #471 (permalink)
Old car guy.....
 
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[QUOTE=1979-930;9856310]

Good job! Looks like a fun project.
Since you posted the nice picture of this sender, I'll ask. I have been trying to figure out which oil sender this is for a while. Mine is disconnected....oil pressure and oil light both work. Does anyone know?
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1981 SC Steel Widebody, DP Lid, 930/51 to 3.2l, K27 7006 Turbo, DOD, P&P Twin Plug heads, Twinfire Ignition, Ruf Intercooler, Powerhaus headers, Zork, CIS Euro FD, 009 injectors, 044 pump, BLwur, 930 4 sp LSD, Mocal 44 w/fan, LM2, Brembo, Retroair, Euromeisters
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Old 12-21-2017, 04:27 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #472 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93097004xx View Post
Wow!!

You have a extreme opportunity to detail that engine, engine compartment!!




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Yea, Iíll get it looking good.
But when you drive 3,000 Miles verses 75 Miles a year itís really a waste of time to go overboard.



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Old 12-21-2017, 06:04 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #473 (permalink)
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79 #610 Winter Projects. Advise Needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1979-930 View Post
Yea, Iíll get it looking good.
But when you drive 3,000 Miles verses 75 Miles a year itís really a waste of time to go overboard.



Sent from my iPhone while Driving


I think youíd be surprised if you do a thorough job and stay on top of it. Give it a good degreasing once a year and it will stay nice!

Last edited by 93097004xx; 12-21-2017 at 06:16 AM..
Old 12-21-2017, 06:11 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #474 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=Hot Euro;9856418]
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1979-930 View Post

Good job! Looks like a fun project.
Since you posted the nice picture of this sender, I'll ask. I have been trying to figure out which oil sender this is for a while. Mine is disconnected....oil pressure and oil light both work. Does anyone know?
Reading threads on the triangle of death it's supposed to be the warning light sensor.
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Old 12-21-2017, 07:07 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #475 (permalink)
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Yes, oil warning light.
Now you have the exhaust off, don't bother trying to free those nuts on the studs that came out. replace ALL studs. They are cheap. Over time they weaken. Next time someone has to do that job (you?) some will simply snap. Then you have a bigger job to deal with. Ideal opportunity.
Double nut the remaining ones, or vise grips. may need a but of heat on base around the case - not the stud itself.
Regards
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 12-21-2017, 10:38 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #476 (permalink)
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Another method that works well if you have a welder:
- clean off the end of the stud, thread on a nut
- weld on the nut, don't be shy about welding it really thoroughly
- let it cool off
We learned this from our old tool-and-die maker machinists, and it works very well. The heat cracks those seized fasteners loose.
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Old 12-21-2017, 10:42 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #477 (permalink)
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I am definitely replacing all hardware. I like the weld nut technique.


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Derrick
Old 12-21-2017, 01:50 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #478 (permalink)
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79 #610 Winter Projects. Advise Needed

Ugh! The studs are frozen and weak. Iíve heated the head and welded nuts to the studs, two and three times. They keep breaking until Iím at the head. I can feel the stud twist with little force and have only had luck with my cordless impact on the medium setting. The vibration helps loosen them. High setting twists them in half. Even that requires loosening and tightening back and forth to get the stud out. There is evidence of red locktight. So thatís not helping. Iíll be buying one of those stud removal tools today. Probably a must have Porsche tool. I have 5 out, 2 broke at head, 1 I can wed one more nut too and 4 I havenít started on yet.




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Last edited by 1979-930; 12-28-2017 at 06:52 AM..
Old 12-28-2017, 06:50 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #479 (permalink)
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You aren't putting enough heat on the head - around the base of the studs. They will come out relatively easy if you get them hot enough - that red loctite will eventually give.
What sort of heat are you using - I use oxy acetylene, or oxy propane lately. You get the torch on a fine tip applying localised heat on the head at the base of the stud. have your socket or vise grips on the stud and keep tweeking the stud - just feeling for the moment it comes free in the head. cut the heat and keep the stud moving.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 12-28-2017, 10:30 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #480 (permalink)
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