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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Mine did the same, Deez - another component that Porsche went super cheap on (the studs) that just boggles the mind as to "why?". I ended up getting all of the stud bores time-certed while the heads were at a machine shop for overhaul.

In fact, the nuts () on mine were so degraded (looked like blobs of rusty metal - no real flats left on them), that I gave up trying to remove them and cut them of with a torch (heated them red, gave a quick shot of O2 and poof - gone).


Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan L View Post
. . .- just feeling for the moment it comes free in the head.
. . .and keep . . . moving.
Alan
???

!!!


Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 12-28-2017 at 09:40 AM..
Old 12-28-2017, 09:37 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #481 (permalink)
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Aww shee....t.
Happy Xmas and new years guys.
Keep the faith.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 12-28-2017, 01:15 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #482 (permalink)
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Thanks Alan,
I did not want to take the torches home. So I just have the little yellow bottle torch. I was hoping welding the nuts on would get it hot enough. I used the TIG and set it really low so it took a while for the stud to get hot enough to weld. I thought it would free the rust. Guess not.
I'll haul the torches home over the weekend. At least I'll only have two to drill out with my new $200 tool.
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Old 12-28-2017, 02:03 PM
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Ideally, if you have to drill some (2) out, you don't want to break the other in the pair. You should probably try and drill the broken ones first if you still have to remove the pair studs. from memory you want the other stud as a locating point. That drilling tool works well - esp when you have good access to the studs. Many have used it underneath the car.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 12-28-2017, 02:42 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #484 (permalink)
Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Yo' Deez, I don't know if you are aware of this, butt ARP makes a really nice exhaust stud/nut kit that is all stainless and the studs have an internal () hex at the tip () which makes installing them a breeze (no double nut shenanigans required with those). Jim Fairman posted about those a while back. I wish I had known about them ten years ago, as I used Porsche studs and nuts and they already looked like shart (rusty/corroded) within a couple of years (even with plenty of anti-seize slathered all over them) - total garbage.
Old 12-28-2017, 09:08 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #485 (permalink)
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Found them. $150.00 for studs
I found a supplier of A2 Stainless studs for $1.98 ea. I can't find any A4 stainless. I'm not sure if A2 is strong enough. ARP is 450 Stainless. Better than A2 but $$$
I'll probably go with them.
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:19 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #486 (permalink)
 
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I didn't know about those - and used regular studs. But stainless nuts. Doesn't fix the stud problem, but means the nuts don't lock on. Easy to remove. (Yeah I know - go for it rawknees).
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 12-29-2017, 09:20 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #487 (permalink)
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I started removing the CIS and intake. A couple questions.

What do you use to plug some of the unused ports when the longneck is installed?
I figure cheap rubber plugs will blow out under boost. Especially this big one.



And is this hose routed this way for a reason or just a quick bypass of something that was removed?








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Old 01-01-2018, 01:01 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #488 (permalink)
Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Deez, rubber caps (not plugs, like the ones you use on yer person ) and hose clamps work perfectly. However, the fitting you are pointing at is for the auxiliary air valve (AAV - raised idle speed in cold temps . . . sends air beneath the throttle plate to raise idle speed), so you do not want to plug that one.

The loop of vac hose connecting the two throttle body nips was done when something was removed - maybe the distributor advance blocking sender that is near the sender for the low oil pressure idiot light? Is that one still in use on your car? If they are to remain plugged, simple vacuum caps with tiny zip ties work great.

Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 01-01-2018 at 01:27 PM..
Old 01-01-2018, 01:24 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #489 (permalink)
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79 #610 Winter Projects. Advise Needed

Ok.
So the zinc pod is the decel valve (which was disconnected) and the one to the left is cold start valve? I thought it was a 79 only auxiliary idle for the York AC compressor. Which I no longer have.




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Old 01-01-2018, 03:38 PM
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Deez, that is not the decel valve - it is a similar device that was not used after 1979, but it does not function like the decel valve (not sure what it was supposed to do, honestly). The decel valve passes air from the secondary intake manifold (the BOV assembly) to the primary intake manifold during closed throttle, and is more or less in the center of them (uses the ports/fittings in the middle).

You will want to run a hose from the new intercooler, to the AAV (silver in your pic), and from the AAV to that large port on the right side of the manifold.

That has nothing to do with a/c - none of the years of the Turbo (talking 1989 and prior) had a device to increase idle speed when the a/c was turned on, butt they all have the AAV which functions as I described previously.

PS - check out your parts manual and you'll see that the decel valve (vacuum limiter), and the one you have pictured are in different locations (even though they look similar).

Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 01-01-2018 at 03:56 PM..
Old 01-01-2018, 03:48 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #491 (permalink)
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79 #610 Winter Projects. Advise Needed

Ok I know which one is the decel valve now. The gold valve in the pic, that was disconnected, must be the secondary air valve that Chris at TK described as being for the York AC compressor. It must have been disconnected when the compressor was replaced. So much unnecessary junk to figure out...


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Old 01-01-2018, 04:17 PM
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79 #610 Winter Projects. Advise Needed

Iíve been studying the different vacuum nightmares. Mine is a 64 emissions mess that has had the emissions removed. So currently the aux air valve had no vacuum source. Looking at the 60/61 & 62/66 routing it appears, by the diagram, there is no vacuum source from the factory. Is this correct or is the source hidden on a different page?

Is the AAV needed? I had an intermittent high idle when warm and reading all of this I found the Aux Air Valve or Regulator are the culprits.

How mine should be




ROW with no vacuum line shown at AAV. ?? Why even install it?



Iíll be using the programmable MSD so the rest of the vacuum lines and switch for the distributor will be gone too.



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Old 01-02-2018, 06:49 PM
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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^^^

Earlier when I said "Auxiliary Air Valve (AAV), I meant Auxiliary Air Regulator (AAR), butt you probably figured that out. Some people do remove that - the only negative is that you won't have a cold, fast idle - for me, that would be a non-issue as it rarely gets cold enough here for mine to operate . . . seems like you can eliminate it if you want to, as well.

The actual AAV on your car can go in the "not used" bin, for sure.


The decel valve (vacuum limiter) = I do not use it (removed long ago as the diaphragm was leaking and causing an idle above 2K rpm) - I like the throttle response without it, but sometimes the excessive crackling during closed throttle gets on my nerves (not too bad, but somewhat).

Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 01-02-2018 at 06:57 PM..
Old 01-02-2018, 06:55 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #494 (permalink)
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Thanks. That helps.
I actually hate the cold high idle on mine. The start and rev is annoying.
Did you plug the hose where the AAV connects or get a different hose?

I have read good and bad on the removing of the decel valve. Iíll think about that one.

I need to get a new vacuum pump/gauge and test both to see which was causing my high idle when warm. It could be the AAR. I need to find out how to test that too.
Good thing a have a few months.



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Old 01-02-2018, 07:36 PM
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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^^^

No AAV present on 1987 models, bisch, so no buttplug or new hose needed.

The AAR does not react to vacuum - there is a metal disk in there that is moved to the closed position as the heating element inside it warms up - if it is stuck open, that could cause your high idle. Sometimes the disc can be freed up with a little oil. You can actually reach in there with a small screwdriver and gently move it back and forth (), to see if it moves freely.

Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 01-02-2018 at 07:47 PM..
Old 01-02-2018, 07:45 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #496 (permalink)
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79 #610 Winter Projects. Advise Needed

Well Iíll get a hose for an 87 then. I certainly donít want to ask you for a buttplug...


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Old 01-02-2018, 07:58 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #497 (permalink)
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My stud removal kit arrived yesterday. I got two removed and three tonight. I got lucky with the double flush broken studs. The centering piece fit really tight and had to be tapped into the port with a rubber mallet. So I was able to lock it in place without the adjacent stud. All the broken the studs are out, yay!

I think Iím going to stay with steel studs. I found the ARP studs for $250.00 and some A2 stainless for $2.75 ea. But started thinking about how hard it is to drill stainless during this, and I would rather remove 10 metal studs than one stainless stud. At M8 size I donít trust any brand to not break.






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Old 01-04-2018, 09:28 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #498 (permalink)
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Good work. Those kits work real well. Yours is a slightly different version to mine. But good job, and you won't have an issue for a long time if you just replace all studs.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 01-04-2018, 10:01 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #499 (permalink)
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Glad you were able to get them all out. Be sure to clean all the threads with a M8x1.25mm thread chaser -- not a tap -- using a good cutting lubricant. This will help straighten and save the threads you have in the heads.


$0.02 on the topic of exhaust studs:

We've used ARP exhaust studs before they offered it as a kit. Very nice, but users should be aware of a few things:

1. The internal hex is a 3mm allen drive, and if you do not clean the heads' threads with a thread chaser then you will have one bind and you'll twist and ruin the 3mm allen bit, even a very high quality Snap-On or Hazet bit. BTDT.

2. Being 100% stainless, if you do not use some type of anti-seize product, you can have the stainless gall and seize -- basically cold weld the nut to the stud. Theoretically should happen when using a 1/4" drive socket (non power tool) but had it happen.

3. You must use a split lockwasher, or similar locking device, to keep the 12-pt nut from loosening and falling off. Heat cycle the engine and it loosens.

Any exhaust stud should be of a hardened material, so yes, a higher grade alloy is recommended if you want stainless.
Likewise, the M8 studs at your local hardware store usually won't cut it, they stretch and won't maintain tension.

Regardless whether you use a stainless stud or OE plated mild steel one:
- use a good nickel-based anti-seize on the threads
- consider using copper coated all-metal locknuts -- the coating is one more layer of protection against corrosion, and the fact they have a reduced hex size means you can use a smaller 12mm wrench or socket in those confined places
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Old 01-05-2018, 08:43 AM
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