Flywheel and pressure plate removal. How?

[vintagecarlover]

Can anyone help me with a how to remove pressure plate and flywheel for an 87 3.3? Thanks in advance. Mark

[dap930]

The basic procedure is to back off the pressure plate retaining bolts in increments and in a cris-cross pattern until the pressure plate tension is relieved. Then remove the bolts and pressure plate and disk. To remove the flywheel bolts you will need some sort of flywheel lock to keep the engine from turning. You will need the special star pattern drive bit for the bolt heads. The bolts are set with Loctite, so you will have to heat with propane or mapp torch to break the Loctite. I am not sure what the bolts are torqued to on the later flywheels, but they will be very tight. If you have a good quality air impact gun, that would be very helpful.

[T77911S]

if changing clutch dont forget to move the ring over to the new clutch

[timc]

Originally Posted by vintagecarlover

Can anyone help me with a how to remove pressure plate and flywheel for an 87 3.3? Thanks in advance. Mark

Just did mine, PP, Disk, RMS, and Pilot Bearing. Remove the PP, as described above. Then find a couple of longer 8mm bolts (these may bend a bit so use old bolts, make sure you don't screw all the way in so as to not hit the case with the bolts, but go in enough so that are secure, you'll figure it out when you start) and stick a couple back in the flywheel. Get a large pribar and wedge between two of the bolts to keep the flywheel from turning. A large 3/4 ratchet that's about 2 ft is all you need. Very easy to remove, no heat required, at least I have never neeed heat to remove a 911 flywheel. Use new Flywheel and PP bolts, and torque back up to spec. You will need the star allen tool and a clutch alignment tool. When you install the Flywheel, just go around in a circle to snug up the bolts to remove all play, then criss cross for final torque. Same with the PP, keep going around in a circle until the bolts are snug then criscross for final torque. Use same 8mm bolts in flywheel to keep from moving when you torque back up.

Pay close attention to how the Release bearing just hangs on the flywheel. Much easier than it looks to reinstall, just let the RB hang on the PP, open the RB Arm about 45 degrees, so that as you slide the trans on, the RB Arm two fingers slide in behind the RB. You can watch it engage thru the stater hole.

These are my quotes from a previous thread where i talked about mating the trans back up and aligning the RB Ears.

"just installed mine yesterday. RB ears need to be 12 and 6 o'clock, with the release arm pointed to the engine at about 2 o'clock as you look straight down, then as you slide the trans on the release arm will come in behind the RB ears, but will not come in completely behind until trans is fully mated....."

"yeah, the way the RB just hangs on the PP, i thought it would be a prob, but it really goes together very easy. AS you slide the trans on, you can watch the RB Arm engage behind the ears of the RB, and rotate the arm or the RB if you need to. Much much easier than it looks."

Oh yeah, as Ty said, don't forget to install ring gear on new PP!!!!


This is the thread:

TO bearing. 930?

[Manda Racing]

I sure could use torque values on the above for 1979 930 pilot and clutch package.

I think I saw 18.5 lbs for pressure plate. (?)

Thanks