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T77911S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
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rear wheel bearing

just did all 4 CV's and now I have wheel bearing noise. was hoping I screwed up a CV but no such luck. pulled the left rear CV and spun the hub and I can hear that dry bearing sound.

I pressure washed inside the trailing arm, could I have put too much water in there and caused this?
too bad there is no way to grease these.

good news is after fixing all my oil leaks the seal on the shifter input to the tranny is now leaking oil, so something to fix when I pull the engine,

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86 930 42kmiles [__] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD
88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD
05 BMW 330CI 130K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
08 VOLVO V70 190K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
90 B2200[__] RUNNING:[] NOT RUNNING:__2000 MER E320 WAGON [] WRECKED:[]RUNNING:
Old 10-17-2016, 06:06 AM
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I recall this happening to someone here a year or two ago. Not an enviable job. Good luck.
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81 Pacific Blue 930 Euro coupe slicktop on a strict diet, Rarlyl8 headers, Blowzilla turbo, Tial waste gate, Full bay I/C, Home made center out exhaust, Leask WUR, MSD 6AL, PLX wideband
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Old 10-17-2016, 07:37 AM
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my brother. I helped him with it, now he gets to help me.
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86 930 42kmiles [__] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD
88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD
05 BMW 330CI 130K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
08 VOLVO V70 190K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
90 B2200[__] RUNNING:[] NOT RUNNING:__2000 MER E320 WAGON [] WRECKED:[]RUNNING:
Old 10-17-2016, 07:50 AM
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what grease do you use in the rear bearings
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86 930 42kmiles [__] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD
88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD
05 BMW 330CI 130K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
08 VOLVO V70 190K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
90 B2200[__] RUNNING:[] NOT RUNNING:__2000 MER E320 WAGON [] WRECKED:[]RUNNING:
Old 10-19-2016, 06:46 AM
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It is not such a bad job and there is a PVC pipe solution that I used to pull mine out and press them back in.
I remember it well because the guy before me did not put castle nuts on the hub and they loosened and destroyed the bearings.
Old 10-19-2016, 07:23 AM
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oh that sucks.
supposedly mine where just done by the PO, a shop did them. I need to check the receipts.

we just did my brothers so he has the "tools".
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86 930 42kmiles [__] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD
88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD
05 BMW 330CI 130K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
08 VOLVO V70 190K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
90 B2200[__] RUNNING:[] NOT RUNNING:__2000 MER E320 WAGON [] WRECKED:[]RUNNING:
Old 10-19-2016, 11:32 AM
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My PVC solution cost a total of 26.00 at lowes. I still have it hanging on my peg board.
what sucked the most was they went out when I was interviewing for a job and I had to get a lift from the interview with the tow truck.

I got the job anyway...LOL
Old 10-19-2016, 02:24 PM
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If one rear wheel bearing is going, the other likely is too. The prior owner of my 930 only replaced one when it started to go and the other went <500 miles later once I'd bought the car.
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Old 10-20-2016, 06:49 AM
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To be clear, the 930 rear wheels bearings are not the same as 911 rear bearings. The 911 uses a double roller cartridge bearing that can be removed as an assembly. The 930 uses an inner and outer taper roller bearing. There is a "crush sleeve" between the two bearings that crushes down to set the end play when everything is torqued back up. Removing and installing the races is PITA, but doable even with the trailing arms still on the car. Search this forum for rear wheel bearing replacement to for information and part numbers. The original bearings were Timken brand, which you can get by the Timken P/N. The bearing and race are sold separately, so they have their own P/N.
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Old 10-20-2016, 07:47 AM
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You should get the bearing removal tool set sold here. I tried the home made slide hammer method in one of the threads on bearings and it didnt work. This was by far the hardest thing to do that i have had to do.
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Old 10-20-2016, 07:54 AM
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Just finished the bearings.
It went pretty good. Used the home made tools from the thread here.
It was pretty hard getting the outside Hub off. I have a 10lb slide and it still took a little work.
I need to go back and review the thread here but here are some things I found that might be helpful.

Heat the trailing arm to 350 degrees for putting on the races. 2 propane torches worked ok. 2 people helps but I did ityself. Make sure you get the a hot enough for the outside race. It cools faster. I also had a rod ready to hold the 2 races in place as it cooled.

Put the outside bearing I the trailing arm then the seal. Only do one side at a time. I used the plumbing tools to start the hub. Both sides started crooked and I thought I screwed up but it was ok. Then I switched to using the axle stub to pull it in the rest of the way. The impact wrench worked well for this.

DO NOT forget the crush sleeve.
Put that In then the inner bearing. You can do the inner seal later.
Again the stub axle and impact wrench. You will know when it hits the crush sleeve.

Now the hardest and critical part.
After helping my brother with his and talking with him along with what little info there is in the manual, we concluded you need at least 320 lbs before the crush sleeve starts to crush.
Here is the trick I came with but not until I was nearly done.
Torque it to 220. Check the play. Then keep going.
After you hit 320 keep going. I think I could feel when the sleeve started to crush. Go maybe 45 degrees more after hitting 320.
The trick. Mark a point on the nut in reference to a hole in the stub. Mark the stub also.
Loosen the nut then torque to 220 and Check play. Compare to first reading.
Torque back up to 320 and check marks. Now turn until you pass the first reference mark. Note how far past the original mark you went or take a pic.
Loosen nut and repeat.
Use the change in marks on the nut to help you gauge how fat you need to turn the nut to meet the final spec.

Spec is a max of .002. I got both sides down to .001.
Always go back to the 220 lbs to check play. I don't think you need to worry about going to hi to reach a hole for the cotter. After all it takes 300 plus pounds to crush the sleeve.

I went just over half of the cotter pin hole and it dropped the play about .003 of an inch.
Determining when the sleeve starts to crush and how much you are crushing each time is the hard part.
Aftwr the races were in I spent about 3hrs on one side just putting the bearings in and torquing it because every time I checked it I was not crushing the sleeve.
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86 930 42kmiles [__] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD
88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD
05 BMW 330CI 130K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
08 VOLVO V70 190K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
90 B2200[__] RUNNING:[] NOT RUNNING:__2000 MER E320 WAGON [] WRECKED:[]RUNNING:
Old 01-16-2017, 09:10 AM
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Excellent write up - thank you!

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Old 01-16-2017, 06:10 PM
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