Source for "green wire" wire

[flightlead404]

I just purchased a replacement "green wire" from our hosts to replace the badly cracked and hardened one in my car.

What I got was about 5" long with a pickup and a mail Bosch EV-1 on the other end, no where near long enough for my needs.

Anyone got a reference to a suitable replacement for the actual wire?

[908/930]

There was someone on this site selling lengths of just the wire about a month ago, he was located in BC Canada.

[Speedy Squirrel]

Google 928 602 907 00. I believe pelican carries it. That is the 928 part offered to replace the 930 one. There is no avoiding having to cut off the connector on the end that goes to your CD box, and fitting those terminals yourself. Not a hard job.

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by Speedy Squirrel

Google 928 602 907 00. I believe pelican carries it. That is the 928 part offered to replace the 930 one. There is no avoiding having to cut off the connector on the end that goes to your CD box, and fitting those terminals yourself. Not a hard job.

No problem putting on more fastons or whatever, I was just looking for a reference to a suitable impedance coax I could buy from waytek wire or someone. I have a ton of rg-400, may try that although its a little heavy for this application.

[Rich76_911s]

Contact timmy2 on the site and he'll sell you a kit to make the female end of that connection with the wire you have in the car. I think it's about $12 shipped.

[Rich76_911s]

Here sis timmy2's contact information.

Pelican Parts Technical BBS - View Profile: timmy2

Btw the 928 part is longer but does still have the bosch connection at the end, which doesn't match the car.

[tops911]

on my car I used the 928 part. the original wire went straight to the CDI box, no connector in-between. i put new connectors on the end of the wires to hook up to the CDI box.

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by Rich76_911s

Here sis timmy2's contact information.

Pelican Parts Technical BBS - View Profile: timmy2

Btw the 928 part is longer but does still have the bosch connection at the end, which doesn't match the car.

I don't need the connectors, I need the wire. And I don't want to pay $165 for a foot of wire. I just want a piece of thin coax with the correct impedance/capacitance etc

Its a low energy signal, probably 75ohm will be best to preserve the quality of the signal. I'll just go to waytek or someone and see what 75ohm coax they have that is thin, has a tight bend radius and is heat/oil/abrasion resistant i.e. Suitable for an engine compartment.

[tops911]

I remember reading a post where someone used another kind of coax cable, sorry not much help.

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Hey Flight, here is what I used a couple of months ago - this size and type coaxial wire was recommended by Bob Ashlock (a Pelican that re-builds Bosch CDI boxes) - I got tired of looking for bare wire (without ends/fittings on it), so just ordered this and cut the ends off.

The listing says the outer covering is brown, but what I got was black (I didn't care what color it was). I liked how it is described as "high heat", though. The wire is somewhat "smaller" than the original green wire, and unlike the original wire, the copper outer wire sheath and inner primary wires are silver coated (the strands are each silver coated) - I think it notes this in the listing. Also, this wire is a fair bit more stiff or rigid (not like THAT) than the original green wire, but this actually turned out to be a good thing for me as it made it easier to guide it through the original harness sheath . . . still plenty bendable and easy to route, but just not as flexable as the original.

Regardless, it worked perfectly for me, and is very inexpensive. Also, you can get longer amounts of it if you want.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O071ZM6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used that, in combination with the shortie OEM replacement wire and Dennis' plug kit . . . I did that because I was not aware of how much of the green wire was brittle and cracked (much more than the 5-6" of the shortie wire) until after I had bought that and Dennis' kit, but in the end, it worked out well and was much less $$$ than the 928 wire (which I couldn't bring myself to buy anyway, on cost principle alone - the short piece is bad enough - talk about a total Porsche ripoff - whada' joke!).

[Rich76_911s]

Originally Posted by flightlead404

I don't need the connectors, I need the wire. And I don't want to pay $165 for a foot of wire. I just want a piece of thin coax with the correct impedance/capacitance etc

Its a low energy signal, probably 75ohm will be best to preserve the quality of the signal. I'll just go to waytek or someone and see what 75ohm coax they have that is thin, has a tight bend radius and is heat/oil/abrasion resistant i.e. Suitable for an engine compartment.

My bade dude. The typical repair is to buy the 5 inch piece you have, and connect it using the existing wire. As the most frequent failure is right at the distributor. I assumed this was the route you were going to take.

[reclino]

I used green teflon insulated silver plated conductor mil-spec wire for my green wire. My description of how I replaced it is on page 5 and 6 of my barn find 1986 turbo thread. The ebay link below if from the seller I bought my wire from, I purchased 10 feet of 20 AWG shielded wire and it worked perfect.
"Barn find" 1986 911 turbo

10 feet 20 AWG Shielded Silver Plated PTFE Wire Green Twisted Pair w Drain

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo

Hey Flight, here is what I used a couple of months ago - this size and type coaxial wire was recommended by Bob Ashlock (a Pelican that re-builds Bosch CDI boxes) - I got tired of looking for bare wire (without ends/fittings on it), so just ordered this and cut the ends off.

The listing says the outer covering is brown, but what I got was black (I didn't care what color it was). I liked how it is described as "high heat", though. The wire is somewhat "smaller" than the original green wire, and unlike the original wire, the copper outer wire sheath and inner primary wires are silver coated (the strands are each silver coated) - I think it notes this in the listing. Also, this wire is a fair bit more stiff or rigid (not like THAT) than the original green wire, but this actually turned out to be a good thing for me as it made it easier to guide it through the original harness sheath . . . still plenty bendable and easy to route, but just not as flexable as the original.

Regardless, it worked perfectly for me, and is very inexpensive. Also, you can get longer amounts of it if you want.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O071ZM6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used that, in combination with the shortie OEM replacement wire and Dennis' plug kit . . . I did that because I was not aware of how much of the green wire was brittle and cracked (much more than the 5-6" of the shortie wire) until after I had bought that and Dennis' kit, but in the end, it worked out well and was much less $$$ than the 928 wire (which I couldn't bring myself to buy anyway, on cost principle alone - the short piece is bad enough - talk about a total Porsche ripoff - whada' joke!).

Thanks RK!

I'm going to look for some 75 Ohm cable similar to this.

See this article

[Rawknees'Turbo]

^^^

FL, so is all RG 188 coaxial cable of the 50hz variety? I ask, because that is the size/type that Ashlock recommended (he did not mention Hz and I didn't even know what that was until now). I read through the article but am still not clear if "all" RG188 is 50hz. Really, I'm just curious as the 50 Hz cable seems to work perfectly at all RPM ranges, etc . . .

[reclino]

The cable Porsche used is not coax, it's just shielded wire. Coax or shielded wire will work fine.
David

[flightlead404]

Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo

^^^

FL, so is all RG 188 coaxial cable of the 50hz variety? I ask, because that is the size/type that Ashlock recommended (he did not mention Hz and I didn't even know what that was until now). I read through the article but am still not clear if "all" RG188 is 50hz. Really, I'm just curious as the 50 Hz cable seems to work perfectly at all RPM ranges, etc . . .

Well, the spec is for the materials and dimensions, and its those that make it 50 or 75 ohm cable.

I suspect that it doesn't really make a critical difference for this application.

I might try this

[ericbash]

This is the wire I bought and have used successfully for the green wire application. It's even green. About $20 shipped for ten feet. You will need to terminate the ends. I moved the ground from the engine block to the aluminum panel in the engine compartment.

10 feet 20 AWG Shielded Silver Plated PTFE Wire Green Twisted Pair w Drain | eBay