Turbo rebuild and Fuel Distributor

[leftfootbrake]

Hey guys hope your new years is going good so far. I want to send my factory 3L turbo to a good shop for a good rebuild. but who do you guys like to use or trust?

Also who can I send the fuel distributor to?

I lost all my info from a while back and would appreciate the help

[kevin930t]

Where are you located?Turbo kraft are one of the best

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[RarlyL8]

What is the Bosch part number of your fuel distributor?
I probably have a rebuilt FD in stock for exchange, shoot me an email if interested.
We use Durabilt for 3LDZ rebuilds.

[gumba]

I sent my fuel distributor and wur to Brian for a rebuild. Good price and fast turnaround. Second for Durabilt for the 3dlz.

[JacobS911]

Charlie @Evergreen turbo in FL. as he was recommended to me by Chris@Turbokraft. He did a great job on my k27 looks brand new. Sends pictures as well during the process to show what was wrong with it previously. Very quick turnaround and great price! Welcome to Evergreen Turbo - EVERGREEN TURBO

[leftfootbrake]

Thanks for all the recommendations fellas. will be contacting all these guys.

Originally Posted by RarlyL8

What is the Bosch part number of your fuel distributor?
I probably have a rebuilt FD in stock for exchange, shoot me an email if interested.
We use Durabilt for 3LDZ rebuilds.

thanks for the offer. ill have to check the numbers but i think i would like my '77 stamped one rebuilt since its the original one. any recommendations for who to use?

[kevin930t]

Rarely8,are u talking fuel distributor? If so thats who i would use.He probably has one as it would be the same part#as the one u already have.

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[RarlyL8]

Bosch part number for a '75-'77 930 fuel distributor ends in -016. I have one in stock.

[JFairman]

You can rebuild the fuel head yourself with a $69 Salvox rebuild kit, it's easy.
When rebuilding a cast iron fuel head don't apply too much sealant around the control pressure pin hole in the stainless steel diaphragm or sealant squeeze out will clog it while tightening the bolts that hold it together and if that happens you won't have any control pressure.
The aluminum fuel heads are wayyyy easier because they use a rubber diaphragm and they go back together dry with no sealant. Just a little oil on the rubber o-rings on the control plunger cylinder so they slide into place without tearing or rolling over when assembling the two halves of the fuel head.

Here's a couple pics I snapped while rebuilding an SC fuel head.