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SLDJR
 
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Convertion of 930 to Syn Oil, Pros and Cons

I have a 1986 930 with a recently rebuilt engine (~1000 miles). I would like to maximize the protection a lubricant can provide. Is it a good idea to convert to a synthetic oil if the car has not used synthetic oil in the past? For this car, are there pros and cons other than cost? Mobil claims the standard synthetic oil benefits: it will combat sludge and deposit buildup, reduce wear, control oil breakdown and field improved lubrication for high and low temperatures. Mobil recommends Mobil 1 FS 0-40W, does this sound correct?

Old 02-08-2017, 10:08 AM
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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There are no cons, as far as I see it (some people claim more leakage, but that is typically on engines that were already leakers), and the most significant pro is that synthetics have much higher flashpoints than non-synthetics, and are thus less likely to coke in the turbocharger. Another pro is that you can go with long change intervals (proven by people who have taken the time to have periodic oil analysis done). I use Motul 300v4t 15w50 - have in various machines for around 15 years (street and race) - lots of zinc, ridiculously high, safe operating temps, and "normal" additive/detergent package.

Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 02-08-2017 at 11:20 AM..
Old 02-08-2017, 10:55 AM
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Just saw the bit about the zero weight oil - no way in H do you want to use that in an air cooled turbo engine. For one, it us simply too thin unless you live in Antarctica or something, and for another, oils of that weight do not have squat for zinc in them (made for cars with modern catalytic converters). The heavier weights do not have to comply with the "low zinc" bit because they are not used in modern machines. Also, 20w50 is okay to use down to +/- 17F (many people wrongly think & post otherwise, despite the fact that temperature data is easy to find).

Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 02-08-2017 at 02:41 PM..
Old 02-08-2017, 02:37 PM
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FWIW - I use Mobil 1 15-50w
No troubles.

Iain
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Old 02-08-2017, 05:28 PM
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My 3.0L 930 motor was rebuilt a few years ago and since then I've used Mobil 1 20W50 synthetic, which is marketed for air-cooled motorcycles (has a pic of v-twin motorcycle on the bottle).

There's lots of threads on synth vs dino oil for air cooled 911s, so you can search for those and then make your own determination.
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Old 02-09-2017, 09:26 AM
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Mobil 1 15-50 every 3000 miles
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Old 02-09-2017, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lee88 View Post
My 3.0L 930 motor was rebuilt a few years ago and since then I've used Mobil 1 20W50 synthetic, which is marketed for air-cooled motorcycles (has a pic of v-twin motorcycle on the bottle).

There's lots of threads on synth vs dino oil for air cooled 911s, so you can search for those and then make your own determination.
That's probably the best USA made oil you can buy. It has more ZDDP anti wear additives than any other full synthetic oil made in the USA because most or all motorcycles don't have catalytic converters that will be ruined by the zinc and phosphorus stuff blowing out the exhaust so the EPA doesn't regulate motorcycle oil. It does cost more and probably never goes on sale.
Castrol has a 20w 50 motorcycle oil too but I don't if it's synthetic.
Old 02-09-2017, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lee88 View Post
My 3.0L 930 motor was rebuilt a few years ago and since then I've used Mobil 1 20W50 synthetic, which is marketed for air-cooled motorcycles (has a pic of v-twin motorcycle on the bottle).

There's lots of threads on synth vs dino oil for air cooled 911s, so you can search for those and then make your own determination.
That's what I use in my Harleys. But still stuck on melted dinosaur squeezin's Valvonline Race VR1 20/50 for the 930, though. It's got the zinc, all I care about.

I could state - as others have - that I'm happy with it. What does that mean (happy?)....that my engine hasn't seized or my turbo hasn't frozen up? We put oil in...the car continues down the road....thus we're happy.
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Old 02-09-2017, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark houghton View Post
That's what I use in my Harleys. But still stuck on melted dinosaur squeezin's Valvonline Race VR1 20/50 for the 930, though. It's got the zinc, all I care about.

I could state - as others have - that I'm happy with it. What does that mean (happy?)....that my engine hasn't seized or my turbo hasn't frozen up? We put oil in...the car continues down the road....thus we're happy.
Another one for VR1 20/50

Used to use Castrol syntec 20/50 for classic cars every 3k. For 30k miles before the head stud repair. Bottom end looked new...

Can't find it anymore, so I switched to VR1 after the repair.
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Last edited by infraredcalvin; 02-09-2017 at 07:17 PM..
Old 02-09-2017, 07:11 PM
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SYNTHETIC all the way
either a 15/? or 20/?
NOT a 0/ anything

zink is great for the valve train but the dyno oil is bad for the turbo.
trust me, dyno oil in an air/oil cooled turbo car will do more damage than ANY synthetic oil.
when the coking that builds up in a turbo starts coming out and clogs ONE spray bar hole, its only a matter of minutes before the rocker face and cam lobe are toast.

when its time to do a top end on the car, oil will not be the reason no matter what oil you put in unless the above happens. valve guides and rings will top that list

amsoil
my brother ran that in his car. 140k miles and it is still in great shape. no smoke. he also had the oil tested every oil change and it always came back good.

my car had dyno oil in it when I got it. 42k miles. at about 50k I had coking come lose and block a spray bar hole.
it also cost me a turbo rebuild,. I opened it up before I sent it off. I could not believe how much was in there

he would also let his turbo cool for about 10 minutes before shutting off.
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Old 02-13-2017, 04:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
That's probably the best USA made oil you can buy. It has more ZDDP anti wear additives than any other full synthetic oil made in the USA because most or all motorcycles don't have catalytic converters that will be ruined by the zinc and phosphorus stuff blowing out the exhaust so the EPA doesn't regulate motorcycle oil. It does cost more and probably never goes on sale.
Castrol has a 20w 50 motorcycle oil too but I don't if it's synthetic.
Yes the Mobil 1 20W50 air cooled motorcycle oil rarely goes on sale, but I have found it at Advance Auto Parts occasionally with special pricing. Mobil only makes it in quarts though, no larger size containers.
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Old 02-14-2017, 04:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infraredcalvin View Post
Another one for VR1 20/50

Used to use Castrol syntec 20/50 for classic cars every 3k. For 30k miles before the head stud repair. Bottom end looked new...

Can't find it anymore, so I switched to VR1 after the repair.
I use Castrol in the testarossa. Motor/cams look like new. I know this oil gets a bad rap, but it was what the Ferrari dealer used, its cheap, and works great...

In the 930 was using brad penn, but plan to use VR1 this season. Do you guys track your 930 using the VR1 also?

I really, really, want to use a full synthetic. But everytime I change a 911 to synthetic, it leaks...
Old 02-14-2017, 04:32 AM
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VR1 or Kendall GT1 - both have high levels of zinc.
Old 02-14-2017, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpu699 View Post
I use Castrol in the testarossa. Motor/cams look like new. I know this oil gets a bad rap, but it was what the Ferrari dealer used, its cheap, and works great...

In the 930 was using brad penn, but plan to use VR1 this season. Do you guys track your 930 using the VR1 also?

I really, really, want to use a full synthetic. But everytime I change a 911 to synthetic, it leaks...
When I bought my beater 914 I took it to andial (I had no clue), they were close to my house, and vey cool, gave lots of advice on how to wrench myself. They told me Castrol only... fast forward, one of the Andial offsprings Vision MotorSports does occasional work on my 930, they recommended Castrol and still use it.... good enough for me...

I'm up for my first oil change after last repairs, if I can find it, I think I might go back to Castrol.
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Last edited by infraredcalvin; 02-14-2017 at 12:07 PM..
Old 02-14-2017, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infraredcalvin View Post
When I bought my beater 914 I took it to andial (I had no clue), they were close to my house, and vey cool, gave lots of advice on how to wrench myself. They told me Castrol only... fast forward, one of the Andial offsprings Vision MotorSports does occasional work on my 930, they recommended Castrol and still use it.... good enough for me...

I'm up for my first oil change after last repairs, if I can find it, I think I might go back to Castrol.
I used to use Castrol as well, until the zinc equation come to light which is why I switched to VR1. Unless I'm mistaken that Castrol has the proper amount of zinc.

Oh well, just another oil topic been ground down to dust over the years. Might be just as good to use good ol' Wesson oil.
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Old 02-14-2017, 04:34 PM
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Back in the 70's I used Castol GTX 20w50 in my cars and bikes. It was good stuff.
Amalie and Kendall GT-1 was good too.

I broke my new Mahle pistons and cylinders in on non synthetic VR1 20w50 because I have so much of it. I bought many cases back when it was half price from autozone and didn't mind changing it frequently in the beginning. I bought a bunch of cases of the VR1 full synthetic 20w50 half off too. Nice sapphire blue oil with even more zinc then the non synthetic from what I read.
If you can't let it idle a minute or two before shutting down synthetic is definitely better in the turbo.
Old 02-14-2017, 07:58 PM
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So if switching from dino to syn, how important is it to get out all the dino oil? A typical oil change has to leave a couple quarts or more in the oil lines, front cooler, etc., right? Is that a problem?
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Old 02-14-2017, 09:38 PM
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^^^

Nope Jeff - no problem at all; all synths will mix with dyno oil without issue.
Old 02-14-2017, 09:41 PM
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From 78 drivers manual

Time to change my oil now with the new turbo going in. The previous owner used Mobil 1 Ow/40 and I just kept it that way. There is no chance the temp goes below 0c degrees around here.


Old 02-15-2017, 10:22 AM
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with a thicker oil and cold temps just watch the oil pressure when cold, get hi.
let warm up longer and keep revs lower until warm.

I have always run 15/ or 20 no matter what the temp, just had to be careful in the winter.

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Old 02-15-2017, 10:50 AM
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