Great that you got it running, and with the offset at 0°!

Weird about the timing marks. Did you try switching the plug wire the timing light was clamped to?

I don't see how you can expect to use COP ignition without the cam sync sensor. There is no such thing as semi-sequential COP. They also generally are not capable of wasted spark. Smart coils (driven with logic level input) have the dwell angle built into them.

So, Inwonder if you are just falling into default operation, in which case the loss of cam signal is forcing it into firing at fixed time on every rev.

Good point, Speedy.

Sandeep -- why not just install the cam synch now and go full sequential?

You can do COP wasted on MegaSquirt. Is this an AEM thing?

Only concern is not having enough dwell time at high RPM. I calculated (IIRC), that I could get to 7k RPM with the coils I chose.

Taking a quick look of VAG coils, the dwell is even lower at 3.0ms, which would allow higher RPM capability before losing spark energy.

To answer your question in regards to why it doesn't rev. There could be a couple of things. 1., your timing is so far off or 2., you are enduring noise in the input circuit causing the ECU to get confused and lose synchronization.

I just see that your VR sensor is not even close to being up top like mine.

A call to the manufacturer is needed. I CANNOT for the life of me understand why you'd need an offset other than a few degrees!!!

That tells me, they put zero thought into providing a quality product that has the potential to blow up ones motor!!!

I would NOT be guessing on timing!

Of course, once you get it close, a quick timing light check will confirm actual offset.

That does not describe Jeff and his team at Rothsport. Super type-A guy.

The product is top quality, no issues on my side with the package supplied by Rothsport. On my previous install on this motor (DTA S60 Pro) running EDIS-6, wasted spark, I just input the trigger offset of 63 degrees (missing tooth was 63 degrees before TDC #1, referenced to vr sensor location) so ECU knows that TDC #1 is coming up. It ran well and made 305 FWHP on the dyno at 8 psi.

I'll try and install the cam sync sensor with the motor in the car and report back. Looks like my only option now.

Thanks for the continued feedback.

Sandeep

I'm not saying their products are bad, but would you sell a crank trigger kit where you had to guess the offset?

I wouldnt!

The wheel SHOULD be indexed to TDC when the motor is actually TDC! I can't see it any other way.

Sorry.

I got crap for using the GoingSuperFast crank trigger. Folks claimed his products are junk. Guess what? No offset was needed. Some other 911s/turbos did due to minor variances, but that's totally acceptable.

Sorry, but if I was expected to figure out the offset on my own, I'd be removing that product and having a conversation with them.

:):):)

I had a stupid thought: I've seen 911 crank pulleys before with a 30° BTDC mark, 5° BTDC mark, and Z1 (Instead of -35°, -30°, 0° as shown in OP's pics). Is it physically possible that your crank pulley was assembled backward? That would make for a 40° delta, after TDC, which winding the clock back translates to 400°BTDC, amirite? . . . hope-not.

So if I'm understanding this correctly Sandeep, with DTA and AEM, there isn't a "wheel decoder" setting you select?

You have to give an actual angle to determine TDC?

If this is the case, my bad for pointing the finger at the crank trigger setup.

For MegaSquirt using MSExtra firmware and the tuning software TunerStudio, I simply click on 6 cylinder and 36-1 toothed wheel on a drop down menu in the ignition settings and done.

No calculating angle from 6 teeth ahead of missing tooth.

I was fortunate to have the timing be right on.

Correct Sir.

You enter the offset angle between TDC #1 and where on the trigger wheel perimeter the VR sensor is located. The ECU then knows (in my case) that once it detects the missing tooth, there will be 63 degrees of crank rotation before the engine is at TDC #1. The ECU can then determine how long before TDC #1 it has to fire the spark for cylinder 1 according to the timing tables.

Sandeep

Ok, that's tough. Surprised those aren't setup with standard configuration wheels?

Good luck!!

An update after some frustrating weeks ....
 

Wow ... what a journey. So many frustrating nights of testing and retesting, only to find the solution in the AEM manual :rolleyes:

I started the journey in to AEM Infinity by downloading the software and setting up my engine profile BEFORE I actually bought the ECU ... wanted to see what the software was capable of compared to my old DTA S60 Pro and the DTA SWIN program.

I eventually bought the ECU, wired it up, tested the connections, UPDATED the ecu firmware to V96.2, and then proceeded to upload my V96.1 profile in to the system. That was the mistake that lead to all those frustrating nights, and reaching out to this forum for help.

Apparently the ECU firmware and the desktop software have to be running the same version :D

I was wondering why all of the sample sessions that came with the program had the same version #'s (V96.2) while mine was a mix of V96.2 and V96.1

Anyhooo .... I synced the ECU firmware with the desktop software, created a new profile in V96.2, set up the engine for semi sequential with no cam sensor (even though I installed the Clewett cam sync sensor) and gave the engine a crank.

Wouldn't you know it, it fired right up :eek: and revs strong and with a bark :rolleyes: From now on I will RTFM ! Lol.

I just need to figure out the 3 wire Bosch idle valve now with the Infinity (outer 2 terminals are PWM to ground, 1 terminal inverted duty cycle with respect to the other terminal, and +12v on the middle terminal).

So it does run on semi sequential, COP ignition without a cam sensor. I will switch to fully sequential after I have tuned it a bit and got it to start more consistently on the first few cranks.

Wouldn't have had these issues if I had followed the instructions to the letter, but I think I now have a better understanding on how this ECU works. Looking forward to getting the car drivable now as Spring is just around the corner in Toronto :D

Cheers,

Sandeep

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490065615.jpg

If all else fails, read the instructions. Been there, done that. Glad to hear since I'm considering the Infinity 506 for my next build.

Congratulations, and keep posting Sandeep. I am a few weeks behind you!

Let us know about the Bosch idle valve as I recently purchased one and am also thinking about how to connect it.

Good job, Sandeep.

3-wire idle (3.2 Carrera) was a fail for us, and the Infinity handles the 2-wire motors (ex: 964) very well and the cars never, ever stall. I forget how our tuner modified a 3-wire to make it work like a 2-wire, but will ask him.

With MegaSquirt, you run what they call FIdle (fast idle) to one side of the ICV (coil) and then the other side of the ICV (other coil) is grounded using a 40 ohm/50 watt resistor.

It plays tug-o-war with each coil to idle.

Works great.

Middle pin is 12V.

Having done 8 or 9 efi swaps I have always indexed or " clocked" the trigger wheel to have the missing tooth at tdc. Looking at the photo of the missing tooth to be after tdc would give the reason he doesn't " see" the marks until he gets near 380-400 degrees. Can you move wheel to get missing tooth at tdc? That's why my trigger offset is always at 49-50 degrees as I use the same bracket to hold the sensor. My 2

I got a hint on how to use the 3 wire idle air control valve from the manual. They have a diagram for a BMW adapted to a 3 wire IAC. They use a mosfet transistor to invert the PWM signal and have a freewheeling diode. They also use a resistor. Should be easy.

General picture:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490218650.PNG

Note: let me know if pics are upside-down!

You beat me to it Dr J.

That diagram is in the Infinity manual for the BMW example wiring diagram. I will give that example a try (need to figure out what it looks like with real components though) as I am not sure what the schematic actually means. :confused:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490231590.jpg

Thanks for the update on the 2-wire Valve Chris, appreciated.

Cold weather is back in Toronto so no more garage time till it gets a bit warmer :D

Cheers,

Sandeep