1986 911 4 speed turbo - no spark 911 4 speed turbo - no spark
 

hello everyone. i am new here and am helping a friend who has a 1986 911 4 speed turbo. one day he was driving and the car cut out. would not start, so he went to the engine see if he could get it going and all he did was wiggle some wires that go from the ignition to the distributor ( the green one) it ran and got him home.

now it will not run at all. i have jumped the fuel pump relays to see if it was the fuel pumps they both turn on. so we crank the car.. still nothing. now theres no power from the green wire going to the distributor. it has new relays in also new ignition black box.
pulled a spark plug out it sparks once then quits won't do it again.
one more thing as its cranking over it turns over then it will like just STOP very slow then carry on turning over.

there is just no power going to the distributor from the green wire. the ignition unit has power from the red and white wire but that is all. so confused on this..

please will some one point me in the right way to go here. much much thankful to you all. thanks

Mitch,you might want to start with the stickie,why my car wont start.There is alot of info there that might be helpful.I wont pretend to no,as i got rid of my distributor along time ago and went with coil packs...I know that there is a bunch of guys that have had that problem.I hope they chime in..Kevin

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You might want to post a few pics of the 930 in question.


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Dont expect to find power on the green wire, it's just the signal for spark.
The distributor does not need power.

If you have a single spark then no spark anymore, it can be a bad CDI or coil.
Make sure the CDI still gets 12V after the sparks stop.
The CDI should have a high pitch sound,
Do you have another CDI box you can swap ?

As Kevin said, read the whole sticky, and post some pics.

Where are you located ?

if he wiggled the green wire that wire could be bad.
it is a coaxial meaning it has one conductor inside the other.
the wires get dried out and brittle. if it breaks internally it can either open up or short to the other wire.

remove the plug from the CD unit and ohm out the wire. center conductor to the shield.
pin 7 and 31/d. one is braided and I forget the color of the center conductor. may be green but you will see which ones they are if you pull the rubber boot back
not sure but I am thinking it should be around 500-600 ohms. don't hold me to it.
the resistance you are actually measuring is the coil inside the dist. this check will verify it also.

not sure if "black box" is a literal term or just a reference term.
the "black box" is the CD unit,.
is it a bosch unit?

use a test light to verify the voltage at the CD unit.
keep checking for spark.
as long as you have not spark, no need to check fuel

sorry been in work.. right ok i will check this soon as i can. we have another cd box we can check. the CD is few months old but its worth to check it with another one. thanks guys

There is a procedure in the workshop manual to check CDI, distributor and green signal wire. Pretty easy to do with $20-$50 multimeter. I had a dying CDI and bad green wire, i found both issues with the procedure.