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rufrob 07-27-2017 07:04 AM

Bonehead no start
Suddenly my hightorque starter spun but wouldn't engage. It took it out clean and lubed the shaft. Still won't engage the fly wheel. Forgot to connect the main wire, reconnected my battery and shorted. I put my old starter in which turns the engine but it won't start. First I wasn't get power to the CDI. I re/re the ignition switch. Now I get power and spark and both pumps are running but no start.
It cough and will run if I give it gas but it dies below 2000rpm then won't restart for 30min. Any hints?

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T77911S 07-27-2017 11:57 AM

what year is it

lets clarify 2 conditions for the rest of this issue.
the car will not start= the engine turns over but it will not run
the engine will not turn over= the engine will not turn over.

it sounds like you have or had 3 issues mentioned above.
it will not turn over
it will not start. (engine turns over)
it will start but runs rough then dies

air leaks is a big one. lots of places for air leaks
how do you know BOTH FP's run?
pull the connector on the top rear of the AFM, remove both FP relays, turn key on and put one in t a time and listen for pump.
have you checked for spark

have you don't anything to the engine lately

rufrob 07-27-2017 12:59 PM

Sorry. It's an 81 ROW.

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rufrob 07-27-2017 01:07 PM

After the short, I got no power to the cdi.
I removed the tailgate panel opened both the engine harness and body harness looking for a short. Nothing.
I swapped ignition switches then I got power to the cdi, but still no start. I checked the front harness and connectors for short, nothing found. Reconnected my old switch, now I power to the cdi and healthy spark. It catches then immediately dies. Let it sit for 30mins. If I give it gas when it catches it will stay running only with lots of throttle. Anything less than 2000rpm it dies and won't restart. I'll check for air leak again since I did have to remove the intercooler.

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cmcfaul 07-27-2017 01:29 PM

year of car would help a ton.

My 911 E, 24 pin main harness connector in the engine bay would get flaky. The old jiggle the wires fixed it a couple times. Issues were similar to yours. Over time I ended up bypassing the main harness and running dedicated wires from the key to the starter, etc. The fuses in the front would also get weak connections and needed regular cleaning.

There are several wires that connect to the starter. Make sure you have not missed any.

I had issues with aftermarket key switches and bought the OEM one that worked much better.

Hope this helps.


rufrob 07-27-2017 01:57 PM

1981 Euro spec.

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rufrob 07-28-2017 03:54 AM

Bonehead indeed. I pulled the intercooler to find I missed the big hose at the left back of it. Now it starts fine but the boost gauge pegs when the ignition is on and the car is running. I tried swapping wires with the other switch to no avail.
Thanks for the advice.

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rufrob 07-31-2017 01:35 PM

Now the only issue is the pegged boost gauge. It stays pegged whether I ground the lead or not. It's getting a constant current at the back or then speedometer. Is that normal?

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Alan L 08-01-2017 06:25 PM

Pretty sure pegged gauge = no connection. You sure you got the right wire on it? - not the o/boost one. The o/boost = white.
Otherwise, try and verify continuity between the boost gauge terminal and the gauge end behind tacho. (ohm meter). I am suspecting the engine won't run if you have the white wire on the gauge - but worth checking.

rufrob 08-01-2017 06:54 PM

I thanks for the help. I found a break at the 14pin connector. The engine side wire broke at the connector. The connector itself is broken. I hate and suck at soldering.

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rufrob 08-01-2017 07:33 PM

I think the hitorque starter non engage was a hint that the ring gear is wearing. I friend mis-started it. I did replace the ring gear about 8 years ago.

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Alan L 08-01-2017 07:43 PM

A mis start should not stuff the ring gear. They are stronger than that. But you should be able to see the damage if you remove the starter. Look at the engaging side (starter side) of the teeth on the gear. You should see some obvious, significant wear on them - usually bevelled on the outside (starter) edge. If they do not look obviously damaged, they probably are OK. Usually if that is the issue you will find intermittent start performance - depending which part of the gear is engaging - ie the first bit to wear gets worse quicker than the rest - so you end up with dead spots on the gear, and other bits that work OK.
I have /had several high mileage cars, never replaced a ring gear.

Alan L 08-01-2017 08:05 PM

If the ring gear is damaged to the point of not working, it should have gone thru a phase of partially working. As described above. In that phase you should hear a lot of gear knashing as the pinion gear tries to engage with a faulty ring gear. It will sound like bad synchros in your gear box as the pinion gear tears more metal off the worn ring gear. If you haven't heard this, then unlikely to be cause of start problem.

Hot Euro 08-02-2017 05:01 AM

[QUOTE=rufrob;9684920]I think the hitorque starter non engage was a hint that the ring gear is wearing. I friend mis-started it. I did replace the ring gear about 8 years ago.

You may just need a new bendix (starter drive). Never replaced one on a Porsche but worth looking at!

rufrob 10-13-2017 05:43 PM

Update: the 14 pin connector at the rear of the engine was broken thus not connecting. After getting a better connection and driving more, the issue diminishes. But for sure I’ll change the ring gear because the clutch slipped in 3 when “pushing “ it.

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Alan L 10-13-2017 07:18 PM

The ring gear won't have anything to do with clutch slip.

rufrob 10-13-2017 07:41 PM

Yeah, I know. The wife burning the clutch going up a hill did.

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Alan L 10-13-2017 09:44 PM

Ouch. New clutch or new wife? Guess the clutch is cheaper?

rufrob 10-14-2017 07:06 AM

Divorce laws here aren’t as “advances” as there are in the west, so I think it would be a wash.

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rufrob 11-13-2017 01:03 PM

The boneheadedness continues. Actually I won’t own this one completely. My mechanic missed it too. The clutch 13mm bolt had no clearance. Hence clutch slip and hard clutch pedal. After the adjustment and new battery all is well with the world. Smooth and easier clutch pedal and constant starter engagement and for some unknown reason the exhaust leak also decreased. Next the dash mounted heater control cables. They are stiffening up just like my joints.

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