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Bonehead no start

Suddenly my hightorque starter spun but wouldn't engage. It took it out clean and lubed the shaft. Still won't engage the fly wheel. Forgot to connect the main wire, reconnected my battery and shorted. I put my old starter in which turns the engine but it won't start. First I wasn't get power to the CDI. I re/re the ignition switch. Now I get power and spark and both pumps are running but no start.
It cough and will run if I give it gas but it dies below 2000rpm then won't restart for 30min. Any hints?


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Old 07-27-2017, 06:04 AM
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what year is it

lets clarify 2 conditions for the rest of this issue.
the car will not start= the engine turns over but it will not run
the engine will not turn over= the engine will not turn over.

it sounds like you have or had 3 issues mentioned above.
it will not turn over
it will not start. (engine turns over)
it will start but runs rough then dies

air leaks is a big one. lots of places for air leaks
how do you know BOTH FP's run?
pull the connector on the top rear of the AFM, remove both FP relays, turn key on and put one in t a time and listen for pump.
have you checked for spark

have you don't anything to the engine lately
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Old 07-27-2017, 10:57 AM
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Sorry. It's an 81 ROW.


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Old 07-27-2017, 11:59 AM
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After the short, I got no power to the cdi.
I removed the tailgate panel opened both the engine harness and body harness looking for a short. Nothing.
I swapped ignition switches then I got power to the cdi, but still no start. I checked the front harness and connectors for short, nothing found. Reconnected my old switch, now I power to the cdi and healthy spark. It catches then immediately dies. Let it sit for 30mins. If I give it gas when it catches it will stay running only with lots of throttle. Anything less than 2000rpm it dies and won't restart. I'll check for air leak again since I did have to remove the intercooler.


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Old 07-27-2017, 12:07 PM
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year of car would help a ton.

My 911 E, 24 pin main harness connector in the engine bay would get flaky. The old jiggle the wires fixed it a couple times. Issues were similar to yours. Over time I ended up bypassing the main harness and running dedicated wires from the key to the starter, etc. The fuses in the front would also get weak connections and needed regular cleaning.

There are several wires that connect to the starter. Make sure you have not missed any.

I had issues with aftermarket key switches and bought the OEM one that worked much better.

Hope this helps.

Chris
Old 07-27-2017, 12:29 PM
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1981 Euro spec.


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Old 07-27-2017, 12:57 PM
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Bonehead indeed. I pulled the intercooler to find I missed the big hose at the left back of it. Now it starts fine but the boost gauge pegs when the ignition is on and the car is running. I tried swapping wires with the other switch to no avail.
Thanks for the advice.


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Old 07-28-2017, 02:54 AM
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Now the only issue is the pegged boost gauge. It stays pegged whether I ground the lead or not. It's getting a constant current at the back or then speedometer. Is that normal?


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Old 07-31-2017, 12:35 PM
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Pretty sure pegged gauge = no connection. You sure you got the right wire on it? - not the o/boost one. The o/boost = white.
Otherwise, try and verify continuity between the boost gauge terminal and the gauge end behind tacho. (ohm meter). I am suspecting the engine won't run if you have the white wire on the gauge - but worth checking.
Alan
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Old 08-01-2017, 05:25 PM
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I thanks for the help. I found a break at the 14pin connector. The engine side wire broke at the connector. The connector itself is broken. I hate and suck at soldering.


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Old 08-01-2017, 05:54 PM
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I think the hitorque starter non engage was a hint that the ring gear is wearing. I friend mis-started it. I did replace the ring gear about 8 years ago.


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Old 08-01-2017, 06:33 PM
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A mis start should not stuff the ring gear. They are stronger than that. But you should be able to see the damage if you remove the starter. Look at the engaging side (starter side) of the teeth on the gear. You should see some obvious, significant wear on them - usually bevelled on the outside (starter) edge. If they do not look obviously damaged, they probably are OK. Usually if that is the issue you will find intermittent start performance - depending which part of the gear is engaging - ie the first bit to wear gets worse quicker than the rest - so you end up with dead spots on the gear, and other bits that work OK.
I have /had several high mileage cars, never replaced a ring gear.
Regards
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 08-01-2017, 06:43 PM
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If the ring gear is damaged to the point of not working, it should have gone thru a phase of partially working. As described above. In that phase you should hear a lot of gear knashing as the pinion gear tries to engage with a faulty ring gear. It will sound like bad synchros in your gear box as the pinion gear tears more metal off the worn ring gear. If you haven't heard this, then unlikely to be cause of start problem.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 08-01-2017, 07:05 PM
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[QUOTE=rufrob;9684920]I think the hitorque starter non engage was a hint that the ring gear is wearing. I friend mis-started it. I did replace the ring gear about 8 years ago.

You may just need a new bendix (starter drive). Never replaced one on a Porsche but worth looking at!
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Old 08-02-2017, 04:01 AM
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Update: the 14 pin connector at the rear of the engine was broken thus not connecting. After getting a better connection and driving more, the issue diminishes. But for sure I’ll change the ring gear because the clutch slipped in 3 when “pushing “ it.


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Old 10-13-2017, 04:43 PM
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The ring gear won't have anything to do with clutch slip.
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 10-13-2017, 06:18 PM
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Yeah, I know. The wife burning the clutch going up a hill did.


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Old 10-13-2017, 06:41 PM
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Ouch. New clutch or new wife? Guess the clutch is cheaper?
Alan
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83 SC, 82 930 (track) - Stock except for RarlyL8 race headers, RarlyL8 Zork, K27-7006, 22/28 T bars, 007 Fuel head, short 3&4 gears, NGK AFR, Greddy EBC (on the slippery slope), Wevo engine mounts, ERP rear camber adjust and mono balls, Tarret front monoball camber adjust, Elgin cams, 38mm ported heads, 964 IC. 380rwhp @ 0.8bar Apart from above, bone stock:-)
Old 10-13-2017, 08:44 PM
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Divorce laws here aren’t as “advances” as there are in the west, so I think it would be a wash.


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Old 10-14-2017, 06:06 AM
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The boneheadedness continues. Actually I won’t own this one completely. My mechanic missed it too. The clutch 13mm bolt had no clearance. Hence clutch slip and hard clutch pedal. After the adjustment and new battery all is well with the world. Smooth and easier clutch pedal and constant starter engagement and for some unknown reason the exhaust leak also decreased. Next the dash mounted heater control cables. They are stiffening up just like my joints.


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Old 11-13-2017, 12:03 PM
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