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Will that 160 work in a 76?
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Old 12-07-2017, 12:40 PM
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i have seen too many people go thur several new alts from auto zone. not a big deal until it leaves you stranded. not that I still wont put one on one of my other cars, its just that the original was such a good part. kind of like starters. lot of new ones just don't cut it. have the old one rebuilt. they were made much better back then. bosch made great parts back then, now some are Chinese.

I wonder what parts are in the new auto zone alts?
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Old 12-08-2017, 02:55 AM
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I didn't intend on returning my core to autozone so that I could have it rebuilt, at some point in time. I went through this the other year with a different car and the only person in town I could find is the nicest 900 year old you'd ever meet.

Anyhow, he wasn't really interested in doing this kind of work anymore. I may return the autozone job and go with the ebay linked from JFairman.

Thanks for all of the recommendations!
Chris
Old 12-08-2017, 03:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Les Paul View Post
Will that 160 work in a 76?
Yes, they are completely rebuilt from 90amp Valeo alternators. The cast aluminum Valeo casing is probably the only part they reused. The rest is all new, way more powerful, and really well made.

Sit in a line of cars at a bank drive up window with the AC fans on high while the motor is at idle speed for 10 minutes or so and the battery would be drained to the point the motor would not restart without a jump from somebody else. That happened to me and I had to get out and push my car forward out of the bank drive up window spot.
With this 160 amp alternator that never happened again. I also had a killer high power stereo system and higher wattage H4 headlight bulbs in the car. This alternator would show 13.5 volts charging with everything running while the motor was at idle speed.

I took some pics of the wimpy 90 amp Valeo alternator that was in the car when I got it and the BNR rebuilt 160 amp alternator before installing it.
The 90 amp alternator was working as good as it could but with the two extra 10" AC condenser fans I had in the car the 90 amp alternator showed below 12 volts on a VDO voltmeter at idle speed. With the 160 amp alternator the voltmeter would show 13.5 volts at idle speed with the AC, headlights, and high power stereo all on.

The new rebuilt BNR 160 amp alternator.




The 160 amp alternator is on the left and the 90 amp alternator is on the right. You can see the copper wire windings are thicker in the 160 amp alternator, and there are more of them.



Old 12-08-2017, 07:43 AM
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so did you upgrade any of the wiring to handle the extra current?
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Old 12-08-2017, 10:16 AM
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Hi Ken, yes I upgraded the positive and negative wiring to thicker gauge marine wire from a marine hardware store in Riviera Beach. I left the original wires there too. Also used marine connectors on the ends of the wire and smeared dielectric grease on all the wire connections on the back of the alternator to hopefully keep them from corroding down the road.

Here's a pic before attaching the plastic air flow cone thing on the back of the alternator.

Old 12-08-2017, 12:21 PM
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Thanks for the info.
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Old 12-08-2017, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
Hi Ken, yes I upgraded the positive and negative wiring to thicker gauge marine wire from a marine hardware store in Riviera Beach. I left the original wires there too. Also used marine connectors on the ends of the wire and smeared dielectric grease on all the wire connections on the back of the alternator to hopefully keep them from corroding down the road.

Here's a pic before attaching the plastic air flow cone thing on the back of the alternator.


Is upgrading the wiring required with this alternator? Where do the + and - wires from the alternator go, all the way up to the battery?

Thanks,
Chris
Old 12-14-2017, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by cmc140 View Post
Is upgrading the wiring required with this alternator? Where do the + and - wires from the alternator go, all the way up to the battery?

Thanks,
Chris
No, it's not required/needed (I've had one for several years and did not upgrade the wiring). The alternator only generates as much current as is asked of it by individual components, so the only time wring would need to be upgraded is if you have added many, high current drawing accessories. The real advantage of that alternator is that it can keep the battery more fully charged if you have additional electrical components in your system (like the several condenser fans that I have).
Old 12-14-2017, 09:05 AM
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I replaced them because I could and it was a feel good thing. Like Ron said you don't need to. Probably cost me about $10 in marine wire, shrink tube, terminals, and gas to go get them.

The black ground wire goes with the original one to a case seam stud behind the alternator and the red wire goes with the original one to the positive terminal on the starter motor.
Old 12-14-2017, 09:52 AM
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Okay thanks guys I appreciate the help.
Old 12-14-2017, 09:59 AM
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Jim's a pimp like that!
Old 12-14-2017, 10:11 AM
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So, I had already ordered the autozone alternator prior to jfairman's post with the upgraded unit on ebay. It finally arrived today after a not so pleasant journey from Tijuana Mexico. There was zero packing material in the box to protect the unit, which was absolutely ridiculous. The voltage regulator was smashed to pieces and I was only able to turn it about a 1/4 turn. Needless to say it made my decision of returning it and going for the upgraded unit pretty easy.
Old 12-14-2017, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo View Post
I was wondering if Kevin, Brandon and Deez were in the engine bay at the time (think Deliverance)!
Fookin creative mind at work. Too funny RonO!

Quote:
Originally Posted by cmc140 View Post
The voltage regulator was smashed to pieces and I was only able to turn it about a 1/4 turn.
Not funny at all.
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Last edited by Discseven; 12-14-2017 at 04:06 PM..
Old 12-14-2017, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
This 160 Amp alternator is by far the best alternator you can get for a 911. Nothing else even comes close.
No core charge, no shipping your used up one to them or any of that. Just a killer alternator at a good price that shows 13.5 volts charging at idle speed with the headlights and AC on.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-Alternator-1984-1989-High-Amp-160-Amp-High-Output-Generator-HD-/253268943027?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

It only puts out the 160 amps if the electrical system has a use or need for it.

xbmwguy Frank gets credit for finding these on ebay.
I agree with JFairman. I did the 160 amp and what a difference in the voltage. At idle I am at 13.6 , where with the stock alternator I was seeing about 13 volts at idle
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Old 12-15-2017, 12:04 PM
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Fookin creative mind at work. Too funny RonO!


Nasty, too!
Old 12-15-2017, 12:09 PM
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Changed the alternator last winter right before the weather got bad and I put the car away for winter. I've been driving the car the last few days before we got snow and the noise has come back.

There were no marks in the fan and the old alt seemed okay. I can only get the car to make this noise if it's hot after running it pretty hard. To me it sounds like it's coming from the left side of the intercooler and only at idle. Could it be something in the fuel distributor, turbo bearings, or something like that?
Old 03-25-2018, 04:33 AM
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Do you still have your smog pump installed? If so it could be the pulley belt bearings going bad.

Rahl
Old 03-25-2018, 06:50 AM
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Do you still have your smog pump installed? If so it could be the pulley belt bearings going bad.

Rahl
No smog pump and the ac compressor doesn't have a belt either. It's pretty bizarre for sure.
Old 03-25-2018, 02:00 PM
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Well, you might want to put your hand on the distributor and see if you can feel any vibration. Although it sounds like a ball bearing rotating and then dragging, making the squealing noise.

Rahl
Old 03-25-2018, 06:31 PM
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