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Capt Bob
 
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Axle replacement 1982 930

Quick question - is there any difference regarding replacement rear axles w/new CV joints for a 1982 930 as compared to a 1986 930? Reason I ask is a lot of the parts are listed for 1986 and newer due to the Euro 930 import issue on the early 1980's 930's.
Old 12-11-2017, 10:31 AM
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I would check if the same for 80 and then 86 and if it's the same, likely the same.
I always purchase parts for an 1986 and I have a 1985 and it's never been an issue.
.
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1985 Black 930, K27 7006, Garretson Intercooler, Adj boost, TB: 23 - 31mm, bielstein sport shocks, ER polybronze bushings front and rear, ER monoball joints front and rear with offset camber plates, 935 X triangulated strut brace, raised spindles, racing bump steer kit
1981 Black 911sc (sold)
Old 12-11-2017, 01:58 PM
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78-83 and 73-86 PET list the same part number 930 332 034 00
I too have a 82 and nothing is listed on US based online shops, I usually set the year as 79.
Beside injection system, 78-88 US and ROW models are mechanically quite the same.
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Old 12-11-2017, 05:35 PM
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Capt Bob
 
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Thanks for the info. Planning to swap out the axles this weekend!
Old 12-12-2017, 04:53 AM
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Capt Bob
 
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The replacement axles arrived. Is it required to remove the stub shaft/spline or or simply unbolt the axle from the transmission side and wheel hub side? Also, as these replacement axles appear to be greased, do I need to pack them?
Old 12-12-2017, 05:34 AM
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Thought you were only changing the CV joints but seems you're changing the whole axle shaft.
Should be direct bolting then.
Keep you old axles, they can be rebuild (or maybe you have a core charge).
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Old 12-13-2017, 12:06 AM
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Capt Bob
 
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I do not recall any core charge on the axles, but I will call the supplier and check...could save me some $$$. Also, I may keep the old ones as spares.
Old 12-13-2017, 04:57 AM
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I don't think you'll find a core charge refund on used CV joints or axles but there may be some value as used parts if they are in good condition.
The amount of time they would have to pay someone to take the dirty greasy things apart, magnaflux them, inspect the axles for straightness, and the CV joint parts for wear and pitting where the balls run in grooves, and the condition of the cage around the balls would turn it into negative cash flow.
It would cost them way more than they are worth because CV joints always have some wear or a lot of wear and who knows if the axles were on a 280 HP car or a 700HP car.

Used CV joints and axles should be reinstalled on the same side of the car so they rotate the same way as before and have the torque loads in the same places as before. If that gets mixed up and you have a really powerful motor it increases the chance one could break under full load when reinstalled.
Put a piece of tape around the axle and write which side of the car they were on and the direction they were rotating while removing them.

The older 930's had thicker CV joints then the later cars so the length of the bolts will be different. I don't know what year they changed them but I think it was around '79 or '80.
Put the later thin CV's on a car that had the older thicker ones and the bolts will be too long and may hit something on the other side of the stub axle flange in the trailing arm or the drive flange on the transaxle.
If the allen bolts show any wear replace them. I think they are 12.8 hardness and have 10x1.5mm threads. The hardness/strength rating of the allen bolt is stamped into the heads around where the allen wrench fits into it. The numbers are small but they are there.

Your new ones look completely assembled so I think they would have grease in them but I would check. The best way to check that now would be to remove the stamped steel caps on the ends. They are pressed on and you can carefully tap them off with a large flat blade screwdriver and a small hammer. When they are off you will see if they are greased.
Then tap the caps back on with a plastic hammer. Tap them gingerly around the edges on one side and then the opposite side where the bolts go through a little at a time until they are all the way back on and don't tap them in the center or you'll dent them.

Use a torque wrench when reinstalling them. To keep the axles from turning while tightening the allen bolts you can use a big pry bar placed between the allen bolt heads with the pry bar handle braced against something solid or somebody can sit in the car and press the brake pedal, or you can use the emergency brake.

Good luck with it and be careful. You'll save a lot in labor costs by doing it yourself.
Old 12-13-2017, 09:15 AM
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Capt Bob
 
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Thanks for the input. I will inspect the allen head bolts as you mentioned and replace if any wear is evident. I really enjoy working on the 930...its been over 25 years ago when I sold my 1972 911T, but yes I save a lot of $ doing everything myself.

So the steel caps stay on even after I install the new axles? I do not remember this configuration from my 72' 911T. Also, the stub shaft on the wheel side does not have to be removed, correct?

Bob
Old 12-14-2017, 04:46 AM
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I've seen 3 different types of CV joints on 911's over the years and there may be more. Some early 911 ones before the 930 was made had fewer bolts and one or two dowel pins.
The later 930 CV's like the ones in the picture above had no dowel pins and the caps stay on when installed. Without the caps grease would fling out while you drive at interstate speeds.

The early 930 CV's had no caps and instead had a cardboard gasket that fit into a recessed flange to keep grease from flinging out. The half shafts in the trailing arms and the drive flanges that fit into the transaxle were also little different to hold the grease gasket in place. The stub shafts stay in place while installing.
I'm going on memory because I don't have one anymore so I could be mistaken.
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Sounds good - swapping out the axles this weekend.
Old 12-14-2017, 08:23 AM
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Capt Bob
 
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Well I removed the right side axle and as you can see the replacement ones are not the same as the original axles. So I'm not sure if simply cutting down the allen head bolts 1/2" would do the trick or not. Also the replacement axles have caps on the ends to keep the grease in the CV joint bearing they do not seem to fit flush in the transmission hub. They may pull up tight just not sure if these are the correct CV joints or not. Input is greatly appreciated.


Old 12-18-2017, 12:20 PM
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your car has the older style cvs like mine that rely on cork gaskets for sealing the grease in. There is a recess cut in the flange for the gaskets. I really hate working on these since it is so hard to keep the grease clean and the gaskets are a major pita.

The stub and transmission flanges have recesses for the gaskets. I am not sure if these will interfere with using the new style CVs or not. Ill be watching your progress closely because I would love to move to the newer style as well.

I think if they bolt up and torque down you should be fine, but its a bit of an unknown to me. Surely somebody else on this forum knows the answer, but I have searched in the past with no luck.
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Old 12-18-2017, 12:33 PM
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PS I have found when using PP for ordering "euro" 930 parts it is usually correct to order the 78-79 parts rather than the 86+ parts, since they have USA model years listed.
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Old 12-18-2017, 12:35 PM
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You can buy new correct CV joint bolts that are shorter for the new ones.
Might be good to keep the long ones for the original CV joints that could use new boots.
Old 12-18-2017, 12:46 PM
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What I really need to figure out is the following and could use some input from you guys:

1. Can I use what I ordered (Part #: 930-332-037-08-M60) which are the new style axles with the metal caps to hold the grease in the bearing simply by using shorter bolts? Will these metal cap grease covers on the ends of the replacement new design axles fit flush into the transmission side flange and stub axle wheel side on my 82' 930? The new metal cap configuration appears to be a much better design to keep the grease in the bearing rather than that little gasket arrangement.

2. Or do I have to use the original axles (Part #: 930-332-037-00-OEM) and original style CV joints with gaskets for 911 Turbo, (1976-84). These ones are twice the cost as well...

Thanks,

Bob
Old 12-19-2017, 04:58 AM
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Capt Bob,
I currently have the axles off my '85 930 due to an engine rebuild. If you would like pics of the mountings surfaces of the transmission and outboard flange to compare to yours, I'd be happy to post. I suspect the two different axles posted are interchangeable except for mounting bolts. Porsche probably redesigned the axles to improve sealing for the observations listed in previous posts.

Also, can't stress enough, use a torque wrench to secure axles to flanges. This will insure the proper stretch on the bolts and lessen the likelihood of bolts loosening. Use a star pattern to tighten in incremental steps (two will suffice). Then use lacquer thinner to clean area around bolts to allow you to paint a line between bolt head and flange. This will give you a good visual of bolt head relationships to flange which should be done after a few hundred miles of driving.
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Old 12-21-2017, 09:20 AM
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Capt Bob
 
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Yes please, mounting pics to compare would be great! I'm very curious if there are any differences in the inboard or outboard flanges. I will update my progress as well.

I just picked up new shorter allen head bolts from Fastenal. What is the torque for these?
Old 12-22-2017, 03:51 AM
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Here's the specs according to Porsche;
Bolt: M10 Class 12.9
Torque: 60 ft/lb

Here's the axle flange pics.....




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'85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau
Werk I Zuffenhausen 3.3l/330BHP Engine with Sonderwunsch Cams, FabSpeed Headers, Kokeln IC, Twin Plugged Electromotive Crankfire, Tial Wastegate(0.8 Bar), K27 Hybrid Turbo, Ruf Twin-tip Muffler, Fikse FM-5's 8&10x17, 8:41 R&P
Old 12-22-2017, 12:51 PM
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See attached photos of the installed axles with the 'new style' CV joints. I used shorter allen head bolts 12.9 M10-P 1.5 X 45 mm. I will update after I put some miles on the new axles.

Old 12-25-2017, 06:34 AM
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