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'79 930 dies while driving... can instantly restart

Driving and engine quits... tach drops to nothing... think oil & gen light came on but not betting my life on it now---was on highway busy thinking about ops if car did not start. Push clutch in and key the ignition and it started right away. Happened twice during 1.5 hour drive. Same immediate key restart (while rolling) both times. ???

4,000 miles ago... new: alt, ig wires, plugs, coil, dist cap & rotor, forward fuel pump, ground strap.
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Current: '80 Silver Targa w /'85 3.2, '79 Anthracite 930
Prior: '74 Carrera. '79 Silver 930. '79 Black 930.

Last edited by Discseven; 12-12-2017 at 04:10 AM.. Reason: 4,000...
Old 12-12-2017, 03:50 AM
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CD and coil are something to consider. BUT, usually when they do this it is due to heat and the car DOES NOT start until they cool off, just something to keep in the back of your mind.

there is a "delayed action" relay that powers the CD unit. this is what keeps the CD on and keeps the engine running after you turn it off. if you can solder I would consider pulling it out and resoldering the joints.
same thing with the over boost relay. try resoldering the joints,

fuel pump relays. could replace them.
I would remove the connector on the rear of the AFM so the pumps will run with the engine off. then when it quits don't touch anything. check the see if the pumps are running.

check the over boost sensor and wiring. try wiggling the wire with it running.

I don't know if power for the CD goes thru the connector on the relay panel in the engine bay or the one at the firewall. probably the relay panel. pull that connector and check the pins. make sure they are tight and clean.

could also be the green wire from the dist to the CD unit. wiggle it with the engine running.

check the sockets on all the relays mentioned. make sure they fit properly.


problems like this suck because you cant fix it if it aint broke and if one of these does fix you may only know because you wont break down again. good thing is there really is not much that will do this.
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86 930 42kmiles [__] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD
88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD
05 BMW 330CI 130K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
08 VOLVO V70 190K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
90 B2200[__] RUNNING:[] NOT RUNNING:__2000 MER E320 WAGON [] WRECKED:[]RUNNING:
Old 12-12-2017, 05:00 AM
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I don’t know if the 79s had the Speed relay under the drivers seat like my 86, but I had your exact problem intermittently. One day I hit a huge bump and the car died- pulled the plug off the back of the fuel distributor and with key on had no fuel pumps running... left key on and went wiggling and when my hand touched that relay the pumps kicked on. I cleaned and reseated that and have not had the issue again in years.
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Old 12-12-2017, 05:53 AM
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nothing under the seat.
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86 930 42kmiles [__] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD
88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD
05 BMW 330CI 130K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
08 VOLVO V70 190K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
90 B2200[__] RUNNING:[] NOT RUNNING:__2000 MER E320 WAGON [] WRECKED:[]RUNNING:
Old 12-12-2017, 06:17 AM
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Input is appreciated guys.

Nice hit list T77... I can solder... thanks!

Let you know outcome.
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Old 12-12-2017, 08:39 AM
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over boost sensor is easy and cheap to replace. Start there....
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Old 12-12-2017, 10:28 AM
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Sounds like the green wire to me. mine was intermittant and i chased it for a couple years until it was bad enough for me to actually find it. One time it died in traffic and decided to start the moment the tow truck arrived.
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Old 12-12-2017, 10:54 AM
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Hi guys ,

I hope this question wont derail the thread , Ive always read about the green wire and always wondered were can this be found in the car . Is it from the distributor ? Connected to were ?

Thanks in advance ,

Tdh888
Old 12-12-2017, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevie 77 930 View Post
over boost sensor is easy and cheap to replace. Start there....
Was at ParkHaus today to get Bpads... and looked at pricing for both of those sensors while there. OB sensor is on menu. Gotta sort out totality of what was done 4k miles ago ('15) to narrow diagnosis approach.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken911 View Post
Sounds like the green wire to me. mine was intermittant and i chased it for a couple years until it was bad enough for me to actually find it. One time it died in traffic and decided to start the moment the tow truck arrived.
I know that tow truck trick---works well sometimes. My distrib to CDI wire 4k ago (below.) Is coax. Forgot exact symtoms--- think it was run sometimes and not at other times... and cut off while running. Don't think it started right away. New green wire is installed. Junctions will be checked.

Old wire junction... clearly on last legs.



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Old 12-12-2017, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDH888 View Post
Hi guys ,

I hope this question wont derail the thread , Ive always read about the green wire and always wondered were can this be found in the car . Is it from the distributor ? Connected to were ?

Thanks in advance ,

Tdh888
The wire is connected on one end to the distributor, passes through a wire sleeve bundle, and is connected at the other end to the CDI . . . the inner wire carries the signal from the CDI, and the outer, braided/shielding wire is connected to the CDI common ground terminal.
Old 12-12-2017, 02:35 PM
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The tach dropping to nothing immediately indicates something with the ignition/CDI to me
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Old 12-12-2017, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo View Post
The wire is connected on one end to the distributor, passes through a wire sleeve bundle, and is connected at the other end to the CDI . . . the inner wire carries the signal from the CDI, and the outer, braided/shielding wire is connected to the CDI common ground terminal.
Rawknuckles illustrated...



Condition of green wire junction at distrib is not easily noticed because entry location being at backside of distrib.

Quote:
Originally Posted by '76 911S 3.0 View Post
The tach dropping to nothing immediately indicates something with the ignition/CDI to me
If correct... that narrows things down. Am not sure how to test CDI for rare failure.
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Old 12-12-2017, 03:37 PM
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^^^

KinkyKarl, I thought you were selling that bisch, bisch?!?!
Old 12-12-2017, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo View Post
The wire is connected on one end to the distributor, passes through a wire sleeve bundle, and is connected at the other end to the CDI . . . the inner wire carries the signal from the CDI, and the outer, braided/shielding wire is connected to the CDI common ground terminal.
Thanks you ,

tdh888
Old 12-12-2017, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Discseven View Post
Rawknuckles illustrated...



Condition of green wire junction at distrib is not easily noticed because entry location being at backside of distrib.



If correct... that narrows things down. Am not sure how to test CDI for rare failure.
Thanks guys,

tdh888
Old 12-12-2017, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo View Post
^^^

KinkyKarl, I thought you were selling that bisch, bisch?!?!
RonObisch, yup... still sellin. Hope all's more than well with ya Norflander!)
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Current: '80 Silver Targa w /'85 3.2, '79 Anthracite 930
Prior: '74 Carrera. '79 Silver 930. '79 Black 930.

Last edited by Discseven; 12-13-2017 at 02:55 PM.. Reason: Sales stuff didn't feel right here. Simplified it.
Old 12-13-2017, 12:48 AM
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Pulled fuel tank to recoat. Be a few days messing with this then will dive into diagnosing electrical issue. Will update thread with whatever's found.


Bare metal. Will use Wurth Stone Guard Gray.
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Old 12-13-2017, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Driving and engine quits... tach drops to nothing... think oil & gen light came on but not betting my life on it now---was on highway busy thinking about ops if car did not start. Push clutch in and key the ignition and it started right away. Happened twice during 1.5 hour drive.
This is the beginning of an electrical failure. Isolate and check the parts that can kill power to the ignition. This will include all relays, all fuse fixtures, all associated wiring, and every component of the ignition system. Checking dead paths for resistance can locate a corroded connection or damaged wire, testing strength of voltage on live paths can detect faulty components. Blindly replacing parts gives no assurance that an intermittent problem is fixed. I just went through the same scenario with my 930 after replacing most of the ignition system as normal maintenance. Pretty aggravating to have it leave you stranded after a full tune-up.
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Old 12-13-2017, 04:30 PM
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hey brian, you said my WUR has separate adjustable boost and WCP, it does not, when are you going to do something about it. ignoring my PM's is not a solution?
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86 930 42kmiles [__] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD
88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD
05 BMW 330CI 130K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
08 VOLVO V70 190K:: [__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:
90 B2200[__] RUNNING:[] NOT RUNNING:__2000 MER E320 WAGON [] WRECKED:[]RUNNING:
Old 12-14-2017, 04:41 AM
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I'm not ignoring anything, send me an EMAIL with your contact info like I asked and we'll get it taken care of. You also need to send it back so we can see what's going on.

Now back to the thread at hand...
Checking everything that can kill the ignition also includes the ignition switch and associated wiring.

.
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'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
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Old 12-14-2017, 09:12 AM
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