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Disaster..

Spent the last 2 weekends detailing my door jams wet sanding waxing buffing was really proud of how it came out.

Then I got the idea to replace my door striker plates.. BAD IDEA..

Read up on them got the 12 point tool soaked the back of them with lubricant waited..

3 came out super easy and one is TOTALLY WELDED to the point the bolt head is simply failing..

Is there a way to get this out? Itís striped severely at this point.








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Old 04-23-2018, 07:56 AM
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Two options to consider: buy the next size up 12 point bit and hammer it into the stripped hole (sounds kinky, I know ) or drill off the head of the bolt using a bit that is the appropriate size, and once the plate is out of the way, you can remove the remaining portion of the bolt(s) with vice grips.
Old 04-23-2018, 08:03 AM
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This really really really sucks.. I feel like it kinda tricked me too!

How the other 3 just fell right out..





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Old 04-23-2018, 08:06 AM
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Iíve had good luck with extractor bits. No experience using on the 12 point though.
Old 04-23-2018, 08:15 AM
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Looks like you'll have to drill out the head of that one now. Cobalt drill bits work best. Put a thick layer of masking tape on the painted area to help protect it.

Then after removing the striker plate put a bunch of masking tape on the red paint and soak the threads of the remaining part of the bolts shaft with the rusty bolt spray lubricant of choice and try using a female bolt extractor on it.
Vice grips may work too but be careful and put a thick layer of masking tape on the paint to protect it.
Old 04-23-2018, 08:17 AM
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Is there anything wrong with the original striker plates?

If not, I would consider leaving them alone until you have no choice but to replace, if that ever happens. Could be Pandora's box that you are about to open. Damaged paint is a real concern here.

Although, if you just spent two weekends detailing just the jambs, I am guessing your OCD will not allow you to leave a stripped bolt head in there.
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Old 04-23-2018, 08:24 AM
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Drill and ez out extractor.
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-53227-Multi-Spline-Extractor/dp/B0002SRG66/ref=pd_sim_469_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002SRG66&pd_rd_r=3NB4N68QFACT6AFEEQPZ&pd_rd_w=HvV4d&pd_rd_wg=X0cPf&psc=1&refRID=3NB4N68QFACT6AFEEQPZ
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Old 04-23-2018, 08:34 AM
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Can I replace the striker plates with out removing the rear tires?

Iím asking because Iím wondering if the rear plate will fall off once the front striker plate is removed?


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Old 04-23-2018, 08:37 AM
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"Disaster"?!?
Old 04-23-2018, 09:24 AM
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The plate is embedded in the door jamb. It wont fall out.

Take a dremel tool or equivalent to slot the screw. Use a chisel and hammer to strike the screw counter clockwise. Be sure to use plenty of penetrant ahead of time and let it soak overnight. Be sure to spray the bolt threads from the wheel well.
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Last edited by stevie 77 930; 04-23-2018 at 09:33 AM..
Old 04-23-2018, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mocker View Post
"Disaster"?!?


The horror!!!
Old 04-23-2018, 09:30 AM
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"oh the humanity"


I've been a machinist for...well...forever, and easy outs are not too effective on frozen bolts-n-screws. What you probably need here is an impact to get it spinning, and Stevie has the right idea.

Mark
Old 04-23-2018, 09:56 AM
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The female threaded steel plate in the door jam won't fall out, it's encased in a steel holder on the inside of the fender well door jam. You should remove the rear wheel to get at it on the inside of the fender.

Once you get the two bolts loose the female threaded steel plate can be moved around a little in it's holder so you can adjust the position of the door when it's closed so the door seam lines up with the rear quarter panel correctly and the door latches smoothly with no binding or unpleasant f r i c t i on.

I'm guessing the car is in really nice condition so when you get the striker plate removed you could have the yellow zinc coating replated or just buy new striker plates so they look as nice as the paint.
Old 04-23-2018, 10:25 AM
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Ive already JUST bought NEW striker plates and screws..

This was VERY costly as these are essentially $250 per side including screws..

My 930 is too nice and these old tired ones just let the whole car down..

I wish I could smack the mechanics hand that over tightened these!!

That seems to be a huge problem with air cooled porsches of this age.. By now almost all of them had some bonehead mechanic that has over torqued many of the parts.

I feel that just tight enough is best and the worst thing possible on a air cooled porche is to over torque a bolt or screw.




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Old 04-23-2018, 10:36 AM
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If you a installing new striker plates because of appearance you are going to replace the bolts too, Right??
Just tape everything off good. Put blankets over the interior and grind the head off.
Then you can work on the bolt with some vice grips or weld a nut on it.
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:38 AM
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So I guess I was right that you don't need to replace them, you want to for aesthetics purposes only. I stand by my prediction that it will get worse before it gets better. I sincerely do hope I am wrong and it goes well.

Frankly, I don't see how they "let your car down". You are worried about perfectly functional striker plates that don't look at all bad and right next to them is torn weatherstripping and a peeling manufacturers label, both of which are far, far worse to my eye when it comes to letting the car down.
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:49 AM
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So I guess I was right that you don't need to replace them, you want to for aesthetics purposes only. I stand by my prediction that it will get worse before it gets better. I sincerely do hope I am wrong and it goes well.



Frankly, I don't see how they "let your car down". You are worried about perfectly functional striker plates that don't look at all bad and right next to them is torn weatherstripping and a peeling manufacturers label, both of which are far, far worse to my eye when it comes to letting the car down.


Please tell me how you mean?

The replacement parts wonít work?

Or the extraction of the screw?


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Old 04-23-2018, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff NJ View Post
So I guess I was right that you don't need to replace them, you want to for aesthetics purposes only. I stand by my prediction that it will get worse before it gets better. I sincerely do hope I am wrong and it goes well.



Frankly, I don't see how they "let your car down". You are worried about perfectly functional striker plates that don't look at all bad and right next to them is torn weatherstripping and a peeling manufacturers label, both of which are far, far worse to my eye when it comes to letting the car down.


Iíve never replaced that striping because I was always under the impression that there simply was no good reproduction seals available.. at least as far as fitment is concerned.


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Old 04-23-2018, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 93097004xx View Post
Please tell me how you mean?

The replacement parts won’t work?

Or the extraction of the screw?


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I am sure the replacement parts will work. I am fearful for you that the grinding, drilling, extracting may lead to unintentional damage to your very nice paint.

I am merely suggesting that if it were my car and that part worked fine and the bolt became stripped, I would leave until I have no choice but to risk damage while extracting.

Of course, it is your car and you get to decide what to do. I am just thinking outside the box of "how to replace?" by asking "why replace at all if not necessary?"
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:21 AM
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If there is enough of the bolt left to get a bite on try an impact driver and bit but you don't want to slam it too hard or risk denting the door jam. Even just rapping on the head of the bolt with a hammer may break the bond.

Another option is weld a nut on the end of the bolt.
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:33 AM
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